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21 March 2013, 22:17
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#1
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Mercury 2 Stroke start up after winter Help
Mercury 2 Stroke start up after winter
Hi Guys, just after some advice before I turn the key, The motor is a Early 90’s Mercury V6 2.0 130Hp it’s the first winter I’ve had the boat and as it has been outside since I got it last year after spending its life in a garage when not been used until I got it, I’m a little apprehensive about starting without checking first.
Do I need to check or clean out any oil pipes etc or should it be ok? J I suppose smoke will be a tell tale sign if it starts. Also would it be easy for me to change the impellor and gear oil? I’m new to outboards but can find my way around an engine most of the time.
So any Old Mercury users out there J
Thanks
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21 March 2013, 22:31
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Argyll
Boat name: Helena
Make: Birchwood
Length: 5m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 250hp
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 116
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It should be absolutely fine to start up. Just make sure you've got plenty water to it and when it starts just keep the revs down to idle and let it settle down for at least a few minutes. The gearbox oil is dead easy. There's two screws on the gearbox. A fill/drain screw and a vent screw. All you need to do is remove the two screws and drain the oil then to refill it you must do it through the bottom screw and pump oil in until it comes out the top hole. As for the impeller you'll need to first remove the gearbox to gain access to the housing then remove that to get to the impeller which just slides up off the shaft then assembly is the reverse of removal. Hope this helps.
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21 March 2013, 22:48
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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This thread is of interest to me also as I've just got a similar Mariner 135 with a seperate (currently empty) oil tank. It's the first non premix engine I've had & I'm curious as to start up when I get it fitted to the boat ?
Is it best to start it on premix & how can you be sure the oil is getting into the system from the seperate tank ?
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21 March 2013, 23:54
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#4
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Thanks peterwhite that helps alot
paddlers im just thinking out loud, in case nobody reply's prob best turn the motor over with fuel off and plug caps off or kill switch if it lets you until the oil goes up the pipe in to motor, i would think that would work,
I need to find out how the oil system really works, probably simple but have never looked at it or a manual, my main oil tank is under pressure once the motor is going and i have clear oil pipes so maybe that would make it easy for me to tell.. another thing with your oil people say any marine grade oil is fine i was on quicksilver as told by prev owner and local Merc boat shop, once i started to use some other stuff the motor was hard to start when cold and smoked a lot, So changed back once the oil was empty and it sorted itself out again..
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22 March 2013, 00:02
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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I've just had my tohatsu 90 serviced by a engineer he has told me to put 1/2a litre of oil in the first 20 litres of fuel as well as the auto lube.think he said it helps to get rid of any pitting or crap in the cylinders.i watched him put the gearbox back and didn't seem to hard to do,there are lots of videos on you tube.think i will service it myself next time,although he stripped the carbs and cleaned them which i would not do..the main reason for me getting him to do it was that it is a new engine to me and i wanted it to be checked out by someone who knows what they are doing.
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22 March 2013, 00:08
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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I think marine 2 stroke oil is basically one of 2 types.one type if you have carbs, the other type you don't!
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22 March 2013, 00:10
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#7
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
I've just had my tohatsu 90 serviced by a engineer he has told me to put 1/2a litre of oil in the first 20 litres of fuel as well as the auto lube.think he said it helps to get rid of any pitting or crap in the cylinders.i watched him put the gearbox back and didn't seem to hard to do,there are lots of videos on you tube.think i will service it myself next time,although he stripped the carbs and cleaned them which i would not do..the main reason for me getting him to do it was that it is a new engine to me and i wanted it to be checked out by someone who knows what they are doing.
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Hi Simon, if you don't mind what kind of money was a standard service and what parts did you get for it, Thanks
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22 March 2013, 00:12
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#8
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
I think marine 2 stroke oil is basically one of 2 types.one type if you have carbs, the other type you don't!
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Thanks that could be the problem, the new oil was a different colour and looked thick but had the marine grade on it, i will dig out the old bottle tomo and check, that would be a good find if so
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22 March 2013, 00:22
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Standard service was about £160 plus parts,i had plugs,plug caps,fuel filter,gearbox oil,impeller was checked but was ok and carbs were stripped and cleaned.£300ish.don't tell the wife
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22 March 2013, 00:34
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#10
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
Standard service was about £160 plus parts,i had plugs,plug caps,fuel filter,gearbox oil,impeller was checked but was ok and carbs were stripped and cleaned.£300ish.don't tell the wife
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Yeah i would get the same if she found out i had to replace the steering..
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02 April 2013, 20:08
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#11
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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I put the battery on her, and the motor was only just turning over, i was just about to remove the plugs to turn her over and free it up after sitting then i remembered I had the jump leads with me, so with it connected to a new heavy duty battery on the car she started in a flash at idle didn’t think it would start and idle so easily, let’s hope it lasts..
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03 April 2013, 20:15
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Daventry & Beaulieu
Boat name: Tigga2
Make: Ribcraft 4.8
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
MMSI: 235900806
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumbleAbout
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I use a ctek charger on my boat batteries and they are great chargers. I have the ctek sockets fitted to both batteries permanently and just connect the charger plug to whichever battery needs a top up.
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Chris Moody
Rib Tigga2 a Ribcraft 4.8 with a Honda BF50
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05 April 2013, 02:08
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#14
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Member
Country: India
Length: no boat
Engine: 135Hp 2stroke
MMSI: 3596
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 75
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Thanks I will invest in one
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05 April 2013, 09:39
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Daventry & Beaulieu
Boat name: Tigga2
Make: Ribcraft 4.8
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
MMSI: 235900806
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 984
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The ctek chargers are splash proof (IP65) not waterproof. On a rib I would pop the charger inside a console or seat pod while charging to protect it from heavy rain.
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Chris Moody
Rib Tigga2 a Ribcraft 4.8 with a Honda BF50
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