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Old 12 October 2011, 15:32   #1
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Mercury Controls

Hi,

I haven't got any documentation for the Mercury controls on my 2004 RIB, the controls are coupled to a 2003 Mariner 75HP PTO 2 Stroke, so I believe the controls should be from around that time.

Could someone please tell me what the various alarm noises that the controls can make are?

Also, I'm having an issue starting the engine from cold (starts fine when warm), if I raise the idle/neutral speed controller too high the engine won't turn over, if I raise it while I start the engine it stops the engine turning over immediately. When the engine eventually starts I can raise/lower the control fine and engine responds accordingly. Anyone experienced this issue or got any thoughts as to what it could be?

Thanks
Graham
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Old 12 October 2011, 16:40   #2
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if you log onto brunswick marine you will need to go on the maintenace manual/owners handbook p/n 10180z80 it will be 75,90,115,125 hp you can print it of but beware it is a lot of paper and ink good luck
alan
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Old 12 October 2011, 16:46   #3
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When you say wont turn over, do you mean the starter won't do it;s thing, or it just dies (wonlt run)?

Not sure what flavour of Mariner that is, but assuming it's a Merc (based on your remotes) on some Mercs is the choke isn't a choke i nthe traditional sense, but is an enrichening valve, so on mine if you so much as look at the fast idle lever when it's cold it effectively unchokes it by adding more air & so doesn't start!

As for the alarms, I'll hand you over to someone with a manual for the definitive guide, but as a general rule a continuous beep is usually bad, and probably means no oil in your case..... Only other alarms on a 2- stroke are usually a low oil tank level warning and overheat.
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Old 12 October 2011, 16:51   #4
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Constant beep could be low oil, when it prevents the starting could it be knocking the gear lever slightly, putting it into "start in gear prevention" ? Just try wiggling the lever then start it.

Most of the mercury controls have push in key choke as you turn it, are u using that ? Could explain difficult starting if your not
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Old 12 October 2011, 17:44   #5
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I have a Mariner 150 never start with throttle always use key push choke. Pete's right the beeping horn or flashing o light means low oil check main tank lines and header tank for air locks or leaks.
Hope this helps.
J

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Old 12 October 2011, 19:02   #6
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My mariner 75hp won't start using warm up lever , I press choke in about 3 times and she fires up no bother , also at this time of year I adjust the idle jet to 1-3/4 turns out instead of my summer setting of 1-1/2 turns . It runs better this way . My temperature sensor is faulty and it gives a beeping warning on my mercury control box , u may have a faulty sensor , check tail water spray and c if it's constantly hot
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Old 12 October 2011, 20:09   #7
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My Mariner 75 needs a little throttle and the choke to start but does first time every time. and its 20 years old!!
My warining system gives a constant alarm and has done for years.
Its had a new alarm unit and the temp sensor checked.
looks like a busted tan wire to the controler or a dirty/broken joint in the ignition swith.

A over heat is a constant BEEP and low oil is a intermitant BEEP . ( i think)
when the alarm unit and remote is working as it should be.
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Old 12 October 2011, 20:12   #8
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Hi,

Thanks all.

I think the part number is actually 10180z20 for the 2002 model, will print that out at work :-).

Not actually getting an alarm at the moment, just wanted to know what to listen out for and what they mean.

For the engine start issue, I'm assuming it's a merc outboard, it was described as a choke to me on the control box i.e. push it in, I can hear a solenoid click from inside the cowling.

What I meant when I said it won't turn over, is that nothing happens, outboard makes no noise I think Boats&Outboards has it right, I think the 'Start In Gear Prevention' is being triggered, I suspected that this was what it might be at the time and tried wiggling the lever at the time but it didn't seem to make any difference. What's likely to need replacing in the control box if this was the fault (although not sure it needs fixing if it's not required for starting)?

Interesting to hear that you don't use the lever for starting; the brokerage I bought the boat said we would need it and would also need to use the choke, from memory that's what they used when I trialled her - it did take them quite a few times to get her started, but nowhere near as long as I did at the weekend, approx 20 mins. Bizarrely it took them a lot longer to start her after it was warmed up, but I put that down to overuse of the choke when not really required. I had no issues starting her at the weekend when the engine was warm, no throttle, no choke, I just turned the key and she started immediately.

I can't quite remember what the exact sequence I used to get her to finally start from cold, I know it involved the choke and turning the key, I think the lever would have been raised a little, next time we're out I'll try it with the lever down.

Thanks again
Graham
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Old 12 October 2011, 22:29   #9
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As mentioned before: Cold start - push key up and turn to start. This is choked. Warm start, do not press key up and if needed use a little fast idle lever.
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Old 13 October 2011, 09:02   #10
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I solved my Mariner 75 starting problems by consulting the manual (see Uncle Al's post above) and adjusting the idle jets on all 3 carbs - this is very easy to do (from memory - screw in clockwise until resistance felt then screw out anti-clockwise 1 and 3/4 turns).

I found the bottom carb idle was way out (about 3 turns).

Then it may be worthwhile doing a fuel pump service - the service kit isn't very expensive (I seem to remember about £14 from BlackDog Marine - mention Ribnet) and that helped with consistent starting too.

We now achieve starting on the first turn of the key - warm or cold - which inspires a little more confidence !
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Old 13 October 2011, 09:32   #11
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Originally Posted by BumbleAbout View Post
I solved my Mariner 75 starting problems by consulting the manual (see Uncle Al's post above) and adjusting the idle jets on all 3 carbs - this is very easy to do (from memory - screw in clockwise until resistance felt then screw out anti-clockwise 1 and 3/4 turns).

I found the bottom carb idle was way out (about 3 turns).

Then it may be worthwhile doing a fuel pump service - the service kit isn't very expensive (I seem to remember about £14 from BlackDog Marine - mention Ribnet) and that helped with consistent starting too.

We now achieve starting on the first turn of the key - warm or cold - which inspires a little more confidence !
good morning Bumble About

do you get into bicester much ? i have a mercury students service training book yours if you want it ,it might help you in the future, i is free you just have to collect.
contact me on alanjane@talktalk.net
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Old 13 October 2011, 12:39   #12
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The way to find out if you have a choke or an enrichening valve is to take the fornt cover off the air box (might need to sdo that to adjust the idle settings anyway) & see if the choke (key push in your case, older remotes had a separate sprung toggle switch under the key) and see what happens.

If it pulls a plate across the air inlet, it's a choke in the traditional sense, and so will probably need to use the fast idle lever. if it moves something on the side of the carb, but you see nothing move in the air passage, it's an enrichening valve, which means if you use the fast idle lever, yiou are letting more air in so you might as well not have bothered choking it!

What they may have done on the demo was started on choke alone then very quickly (once running) opened the fast idle to keep it running & warm up quickly.


Although it sounds like you have a problem with your ASIG switch, which i think is in the starter circuit and is held closed by Neutral, opens when in gear. If it's not that next stop is either the keyswitch itself or the solenoid. I'm pretty certian if no deadman it would still crank, just won't fire.
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Old 13 October 2011, 15:32   #13
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My mariner 75 year 1987 has a solenoid choke dat injects fuel into the reed manifolds ,small cylinder solenoid near the fuel pimp , it can be checked by taking fuel hose off solenoid and then activate choke and u should c fuel squirting out .
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Old 14 October 2011, 09:14   #14
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good morning Bumble About

do you get into bicester much ? i have a mercury students service training book yours if you want it ,it might help you in the future, i is free you just have to collect.
contact me on alanjane@talktalk.net
Thanks Uncle Al - PM winging it's way to you !
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Old 26 October 2011, 09:26   #15
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Many thanks Uncle Al - the training manual looks very good (apologies for the delays in collecting it - the family put a higher priority on getting hot water in the house again!).
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Old 26 October 2011, 16:41   #16
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the ladys of the house always have their priorities wrong, but dont tell them i said so cos they know where i live all the best
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