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11 February 2013, 20:52
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#21
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Member
Country: Ireland
Make: Zodiac Mk I
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15 hp Yam two stroke
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longjohn
Why use muffs on your engine? - it has a flush port, much easier to use and no need to run the engine when flushing.
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Way to go
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12 February 2013, 04:06
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#22
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatnomad
Way to go
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It's relative and depends on engine brand, the ones that has flushing port on engine block needs to be flushed with adequate hose water pressure or thermostat will never open, will have a partially flushed engine. Others that has tail flushing port needs to be flushed with engine on.
If you boat constantly and your engine has the screw type flush port in the long run will end damaging engine threads, so muffs will be the way to go.
Happy Boating
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12 February 2013, 08:48
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Winchester
Boat name: The Rubber Duck
Make: Avon 3.10
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 703
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And whilst I can see that it is better than doing nothing, with a bucket you are rinsing the engine in its own muck, ie the crap you want to get out of it, this must dilute the effect????
Muffs and fresh water has to be the way to go
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12 February 2013, 12:49
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: Half Cut
Make: Cobra 8.6
Length: 8m +
Engine: Verado 275
MMSI: 235104619
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longjohn
Why use muffs on your engine? - it has a flush port, much easier to use and no need to run the engine when flushing.
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x2. If you can flush as soon as you come off the water then thermostats should still be open. Otherwise you may need to run it to get them to open. Generally the flush port should be used with the engine switched off to avoid burning out the impeller. (on the Mercs and Yams I have owned, others maybe different)
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12 February 2013, 16:46
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKat
good point needs to warm up a bit to open the stat, 10 minutes is a lot of fuel though, I'd make it 9 mins!
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Etec on tickover= 0.7l/hr
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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12 February 2013, 16:48
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clamchowder
(unless it's a specially large water butt obv)
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I'm sure a large butt expert will be along shortly
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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12 February 2013, 19:10
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribtecer
And whilst I can see that it is better than doing nothing, with a bucket you are rinsing the engine in its own muck, ie the crap you want to get out of it, this must dilute the effect????
Muffs and fresh water has to be the way to go
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Possibly, although I'd guess there is no more than a couple of litres absolute maximum (probably far less) in most medium sized outboards. So you are diluting 2 litres in a half a 45galon drum call it 20 galons = 90litres.
At a guess that means you are less likely to get big obstructions in the engine and as long as there is some water flowing past the obstruction it will re-disolve any residues next time you use it...
I'd have thought the ideal was to run it up to heat in the barrel and the muff it briefly while the stat is open.
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12 February 2013, 19:58
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#28
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac
It's relative and depends on engine brand, the ones that has flushing port on engine block needs to be flushed with adequate hose water pressure or thermostat will never open, will have a partially flushed engine. Others that has tail flushing port needs to be flushed with engine on.
If you boat constantly and your engine has the screw type flush port in the long run will end damaging engine threads, so muffs will be the way to go.
Happy Boating
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Most flushing ports don't require the thermostats to be open. And if they were open they'd close really quick with hose water rushing through. At least on my Yam the engine is not to be run while on the flushing port. Best bet is to read the manual and follow the directions...
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12 February 2013, 21:54
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
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Not sufficient enough flow from the tap the cool the power head
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13 February 2013, 00:15
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#30
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yam man
Not sufficient enough flow from the tap the cool the power head
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The thermostats don't close completely. There are bypass holes which allow water from the flush port to circulate. But pretty sure that after the drive home the engine is cold...
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09 April 2013, 19:45
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#31
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Member
Country: Other
Town: isla plana spain
Make: humber/yam 360s
Length: 5m +
Engine: outboard 90+15+20
MMSI: mmsi 235907606
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny
As far as I know as long as its pumping water it will be fine. I have used muffs at boat yards where the water pressure is low and a trickle has come out of the tell tale but as long as its pumping its been fine. The muffs I use are the yellow ones that pump water out of both sides and it fits nice and tight on my Etec 60. Have a look on ebay just type in engine muffs.
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i do like a nice tight muff
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09 April 2013, 19:51
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#32
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
Make: Air-Craft 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki df70a
MMSI: 235087492
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 7,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apples
i do like a nice tight muff
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if you can find one let me know
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
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09 April 2013, 22:25
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#33
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apples
i do like a nice tight muff
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Apples for the win!
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