This owner has only used it in fresh water and can't vouch for the previous own (but this guys mechanic says he doesn't see any indication of past salt use).
Check compression, what else to look for???
I need to be sure it's worth looking at for $2100 - it's a 4 hour drive and I'd probab have to leave at 4A tomorrow to meet this guy.
(big rib is diesel, this will be my first outboard purchase)
Looks good to me (i.e. worth the drive). Any idea on the hours?
In addition to checking the compression have a peek at the thermostats. You get a decent indication of the interior cooling passages just looking in there with a flashlight.
The impeller and plugs you should probably just plan on replacing for piece of mind and knowing their service status.
Looks good to me (i.e. worth the drive). Any idea on the hours?
The claim is 75 hours! I don't really know how to check that on a mechanical 1987 engine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
In addition to checking the compression have a peek at the thermostats. You get a decent indication of the interior cooling passages just looking in there with a flashlight.
Thanks. Another friend just mentioned to me that's where you would see salt issues, if any.
Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
The impeller and plugs you should probably just plan on replacing for piece of mind and knowing their service status.
Supposedly just changed - I have a call into his mechanic. He was planning on using the boat this season and already had service done but ended up getting a 4-stroke.
Compression test
Check throttle linkages for wear
Check inline filters for cleanliness
put a stethoscope on the gearbox if you can do it safely (prop off)
Without the engine on (key Out) put gears into forward and reverse and check for slip obviously you need prop on for that
There are a few circlip heads a and similar on the engine have a good look at these and there locatiions and the site of them to see if they have been looked after during regular maintenance
Run a digital thermometer over the exhaust ports. cylinder heads. and gearbox
They tend to go neer the Steering toob and trim area so check for signs of bad corrosion there
Any claim of hours used on an old engine is fantasy but if the engine has any blue sheen near the spark plugs that means its been overheated at some time
that engine is 35 rears old and they are saying it's done 75 hours 2 hour p year. I hope the owner got laid more than he used the boat in fact I hope that was the reason he didn't use the engine it but unlikely
These engines are old but gold lets hope you have found a good one it dos look very clean
__________________
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Soul possession, Got me in a trance
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They tend to go neer the Steering toob and trim area so check for signs of bad corrosion there
Any claim of hours used on an old engine is fantasy but if the engine has any blue sheen near the spark plugs that means its been overheated at some time
that engine is 35 rears old and they are saying it's done 75 hours 2 hour p year. I hope the owner got laid more than he used the boat in fact I hope that was the reason he didn't use the engine it but unlikely
These engines are old but gold lets hope you have found a good one it dos look very clean
I wont disagree with this fella ^^^ he's spot on with these details
.. I just sold a similar 75 which is the same motor, with different carbs .. yours looks very clean for its age ... the one I had never put a foot wrong .. they are an excellent machine
My steering bracket was soo rusty I worried every time
Compression test
Check throttle linkages for wear
Check inline filters for cleanliness
put a stethoscope on the gearbox if you can do it safely (prop off)
Without the engine on (key Out) put gears into forward and reverse and check for slip obviously you need prop on for that
There are a few circlip heads a and similar on the engine have a good look at these and there locatiions and the site of them to see if they have been looked after during regular maintenance
Run a digital thermometer over the exhaust ports. cylinder heads. and gearbox
They tend to go neer the Steering toob and trim area so check for signs of bad corrosion there
Any claim of hours used on an old engine is fantasy but if the engine has any blue sheen near the spark plugs that means its been overheated at some time
that engine is 35 rears old and they are saying it's done 75 hours 2 hour p year. I hope the owner got laid more than he used the boat in fact I hope that was the reason he didn't use the engine it but unlikely
These engines are old but gold lets hope you have found a good one it dos look very clean
we've had many of these over the years as has been said bulletproof in general
we found on older engines the Achilles heal was the lower crank seal which hardens over time & eventually allows water into the lower main bearing which in turn migrates up to the top bearing via the lube port
a big job to change as its the power head off but worthwhile if it saves the engine from self destruction as you cant see the damage being done until it too late
This is as close to I've come to buying one. I talked to the mechanic that did the pre-season work on it in February: he can't remember any issues. Though he did say that he heard that at some point, it had been put away for 5 years. I've emailed the owner to see what he says.
Also, you'll notice the paint on the lower leg looks a little dull compared to the upper leg. I asked him if that's an optical illusion or there's been some repainting...
It's a 3.5 hour drive north of me...I need to hear back on the above before I decide to drive up there! (I'll hopefully figure that out tonight)
LU takes a beating. I wouldn't be too worried about the paint. Do all you can to make sure the gears are OK (and not really sure what you can do about that aside from pressure testing and looking at oil), but...
Every bit as pristine as the pictures make it look up top. Beautiful inside, perfect inside the cowling, fresh water engine all its life, probably really only has 75 hours on it or so, saw the maintenance notes and invoice from the full service a couple of months ago . Can't wait to piece the wiring harness back together (it's all quick disconnects) and get it running.
The bad:
A little paint needs to be touched up on the lower unit and I'll probably ignore the skeg ding. The paint makes sense - the guy he bought it from had a cover that only covered the cowling the leg was always out in the California sun.
The bad:
A little paint needs to be touched up on the lower unit and I'll probably ignore the skeg ding. The paint makesyou get that old. sense - the guy he bought it from had a cover that only covered the cowling the leg was always out in the California sun.
In NCP Years that engine is about 240 years old should you be so lucky that's all the repair work you'll need when you get that old. Bargain well done you!
__________________
Here it comes again, I don't stand a chance
Soul possession, Got me in a trance
Pullin' me back to you - Deja Voodoo
Now time to source a prop. Since this is a pretty standard set-up, I did a little searching:
Nos4r2 - 17 or 19 pitch is about what you want. 19 for 1 or 2 up, 17 for carrying more weight. Bear in mind the max recommended operating rpm for a Yam 90 2 stroke is 5500 rpm. I hit 5500 RPM with a 17k on the 85 Yam/SR5.4 (same motor bar premix)
RIB-Teccie - Usually yam props for that engine were (from memory) 13.5" x 13, 15, 17, 19 or 21". If you are loading the rib with fuel, crew & kit, you would look at the 15 pitch. The 17 would be a good utility choice.
Time to find a good prop....sounds like most of you go with aluminium.
