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27 April 2013, 18:25
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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Mobile Mechanic
My trailer is in need of some work and Trailer Guy (Ben) is going to take a look at it for me.
However my steering is locked up solid, i've Soaked it in wd40 et al, and "nudged" it with impact adjustment tool, but to no avail (removed the draw arm and the locking nut on the cable first).
I don't want to knacker the cable again.... and suspect the steering tube on the engine (Yam 90 2/) to be at fault, possibly too corroded internally (3rd time in 3 years its seize 2 new cables).
Does anyone know of a mobile mechanic in the Southampton area?
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27 April 2013, 18:43
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: surrey
Boat name: el nino
Make: tornado humber
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboards
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 958
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just get new steering 118 on ebay easy to do
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we all mad
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27 April 2013, 18:52
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Have you tried a bit of heat?
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27 April 2013, 18:53
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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buying a new cable wont fix the issue i cant get the (less than 12 month old) cable out, and the fact that 2 have seized in the last 2 years says there is more of an underlying issue.
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27 April 2013, 18:54
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jizm
Have you tried a bit of heat?
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no, heat, glass fiber, and grease/oil scares me
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27 April 2013, 18:58
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#6
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
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I have always found that removing the link arm from the end of the "piston", and then putting a really big screwdriver through the whole and using that as a lever to rotate the 'piston' freed it up. Afterwards remove, clean, re-grease everything, promise you will clean and regrease when winterising, forget to do it and repeat next season...
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27 April 2013, 18:58
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich
no, heat, glass fiber, and grease/oil scares me
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Got a pic of the offending item?
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27 April 2013, 18:59
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: surrey
Boat name: el nino
Make: tornado humber
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboards
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 958
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so do you need new tube then ? have see some pics
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we all mad
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27 April 2013, 19:02
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
I have always found that removing the link arm from the end of the "piston", and then putting a really big screwdriver through the whole and using that as a lever to rotate the 'piston' freed it up. Afterwards remove, clean, re-grease everything, promise you will clean and regrease when winterising, forget to do it and repeat next season...
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Tried that too, rotates OK, just wont budge in or out. arm has copper grease on it from last year.
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27 April 2013, 19:03
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: El Mono
Make: Ribtec 9M
Length: 9m +
Engine: Yanmar 315/Bravo III
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 900
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The steering rod on the engine on my TomKat locked up a few years ago, after being left unused for a while. Think I ended up using heat and a large hammer to get it out.
I now make sure even if the boat doesn't go anyway I move the steering and gear/throttle systems every month or so in the garage, and where possible strip apart and grease very so often.
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27 April 2013, 19:04
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich
Tried that too, rotates OK, just wont budge in or out. arm has copper grease on it from last year.
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Sounds like it may be something else holding it. Sure the helm turns ok?
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27 April 2013, 19:17
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich
arm has copper grease on it from last year.
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That might just be the problem. I thought copper grease was a no-no for most marine applications?
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27 April 2013, 20:11
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#13
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
That might just be the problem. I thought copper grease was a no-no for most marine applications?
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It is. It accelerates electrolytic corrosion.
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27 April 2013, 20:18
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#14
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
accelerates electrolytic corrosion.
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Yeah, I knew that....
...I just couldn't spell it
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27 April 2013, 20:34
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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YAm Man your mailbox is full.
Ill post photos shortly, and as its the 3rd time this has happened, i think the tube has seen better days.
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28 April 2013, 11:49
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
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Try Mark Towersey he can be contacted through Blackdog marine, or he used to be a couple of years ago.
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28 April 2013, 13:03
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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thanks for the suggestions, Yam Man is going to pop round and take a peek.
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05 May 2013, 16:17
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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Well Yam man came round as promised and offered some wisdom and what would be needed to replace the tube.
1st step was to see if I could get the cable out or i'd need to cut it.
So with thinking that either it would come out, or I would need to replace it, i got out the old faith tools, of heat and Mallet.
Within 45 mins I had the cable 80% out, cant get it further without removing the A frame. I had a look inside, and it was a mess with lots of corrosion. Thinking i had nothing to loose as i was looking at a new tube anyway i took a drill slightly undersized and ran it in and out on very low speed along with some wd40. loads of crud came out, and low and behold the cable went back in easily. I then greased the cable and reinserted and now I have working steering.
I think i am missing a (nylon?) cover nut for the end of the tube opposite to where it comes in, and will probably need a new tube in a season or so but at least I can get out on the water now.
Thanks again to Yam Man for the pointers.
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06 May 2013, 08:56
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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Having had a cable snap on me a mile or so out of Salcombe last year I would look in to replacing it as it may have been weakened! I ended replacing mine with hydronic as it meant I did not have to remove the engine as there was not enough room to get the new cable in (had to cut the old one out!)
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06 May 2013, 08:59
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich
Well Yam man came round as promised and offered some wisdom and what would be needed to replace the tube.
1st step was to see if I could get the cable out or i'd need to cut it.
So with thinking that either it would come out, or I would need to replace it, i got out the old faith tools, of heat and Mallet.
Within 45 mins I had the cable 80% out, cant get it further without removing the A frame. I had a look inside, and it was a mess with lots of corrosion. Thinking i had nothing to loose as i was looking at a new tube anyway i took a drill slightly undersized and ran it in and out on very low speed along with some wd40. loads of crud came out, and low and behold the cable went back in easily. I then greased the cable and reinserted and now I have working steering.
I think i am missing a (nylon?) cover nut for the end of the tube opposite to where it comes in, and will probably need a new tube in a season or so but at least I can get out on the water now.
Thanks again to Yam Man for the pointers.
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Just run a 16mm extended drill bit through the steering tube, that'll clear out any build up of rust that's gathered in there.
Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ www.BoatsandOutboards4Sale.co.uk ~ 07930 421007
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