Most expensive 3 minutes of pleasure in my life

[Brinormeg]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

I’m sure it’s 20 hours or 1 month for the first service unless it’s changed I did mine at 6 hours 1 month and the oils were filthy

Ah! I forgot.....thats right now you say that jeff.
I really do worry about my memory at times!!!!


I did email Suzuki to explain our circumstances last year when the ob eventually came, informing them it wouldn't be used for a year, but i never did get a response.


"The first service is at the 20-hour or 1 month and then every 12 months or 100 hours"

I decided just to take a gamble when I knew the OB wouldn't be used for a year or over, and in theory would need to get it serviced at least twice within that time without it ever being turned over!

Time will tell how that works out!
But will get it serviced after the 20hrs anyway if not before depending on when I can get it booked in or if there are further issues

[jeffstevens763@g]

To be honest I should have changed my timing belt at 4 years doing it at 7 only because it was inspected at each service plus low hours use so understand your thoughts. Just be aware oil has a 2 year life span before it starts to lose properties and the first oil change is very important I change mine every year to be safe, salt air and moist environment being the issue for me.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

I was assuming it would be the same as Mercury. "Recommended" 20hrs or 3 mths, but definitely 100 or annually if you want to keep the warranty intact.
I did ask Barrus about the 20hrs/100hrs/annual service as its a little ambiguous to say the least.
I was advised 20 hrs - service, if it's done less than 20 hrs but it's 12 months old - service. If its had a 20 hr service - done 100hrs and is less than 12 months old - service.

Sounds like Mercury a bit more lenient Steve 3 months but when I saw my oils I was shocked at the crap in them after 6 hours.

[Brinormeg]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

To be honest I should have changed my timing belt at 4 years doing it at 7 only because it was inspected at each service plus low hours use so understand your thoughts. Just be aware oil has a 2 year life span before it starts to lose properties and the first oil change is very important I change mine every year to be safe, salt air and moist environment being the issue for me.

I will try contacting Suzuki again,and if they bother to reply and say warranty is definately knacked, I will probably just do it myself....(at least the minor Engine/Gear oil and filter changes)

Ok resale wont be the same, but what the hell.

Will just have to hope there are no major problems that warranty would have covered!

Did my own cars for many years in my youth without any real issues, and although new to outboards, there are some good tutorials here by you guys and on youtube if I get stuck.

Best way to get to know the engine, and how to fix in a tight spot if need be I suppose.

On your experience i will get the first one done soon by someone and get them check over the whole ouboard, even it costs a little more...then take it from there.

Will start new thread on reliable place up here.

[jeffstevens763@g]

If you do go down the diy route pikey Dave put me onto Dulas boats for my service bits they were bang on the money had to wait for a timing belt to come from Germany but I still got everything delivered within a week.

[Brinormeg]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

If you do go down the diy route pikey Dave put me onto Dulas boats for my service bits they were bang on the money had to wait for a timing belt to come from Germany but I still got everything delivered within a week.

[Brinormeg]

Ok so got a diagnostic cable off ebay as suggested and plugged it into the Suzuki 20hp today.

Shows I over estimated my performance time again.

Says:

8 min at between 1000-2000rpm
4 minutes at 2000-3000 rpm
0 min at above 3000rpm
No. Overheat (Gradient) 2 times

Not sure what eveything means yet but a handy little gadget. Even to check the cheapo tac counter thing from ebay which is pretty bang on with the software of this diagnostics.

But guessing the 4 minutes was just opening up like i thought under the 3000rpm, then overheat was when the engine light came on, we shit ourselves, and returned to shore.

Took the water temp in the barrel today at idle for 1/2 hr and it was around 40-46C

Anything else you guys think doesnt look right? First lot early on . Second after running a while I think depending on upload sequence

[Brinormeg]

2nd lot

[mick]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Certainly applies to Suzuki & Evinrudes. Can’t speak for other brands. I would assume it does. The EFI fuel systems are sealed and there’s no need to drain them.

The new Hondas have something you can drain before the injectors according to the Honda bible

[Coastie]

@Brinormeg. Give Cameron a call at Clyde Outboards. He recently fitted a new outboard on my boat and I was pleased with the work and service.

[Fenlander]

Ok for me looking at those diagnostics brings questions rather than answers. It seems the alarm was for what they term overheat gradient not absolute high temperature. If I understand it correctly an overheat gradient is where it is seeing a fast rise in temperature that it thinks will lead to an overheat so triggers a code/warning.

I wonder if anyone knows more about overheat gradients?

The actual cylinder temp in the logged data at the time the fault record was generated doesn't seem that high at 83 degC but I don't know what the acceptable range would be for that motor. Perhaps someone with the repair manual could see if that info is available.

[Brinormeg]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

overheat gradient is where it is seeing a fast rise in temperature that it thinks will lead to an overheat so triggers a code/warning.

I wonder if anyone knows more about overheat gradients?

The actual cylinder temp in the logged data at the time the fault record was generated doesn't seem that high at 83 degC but I don't know what the acceptable range would be for that motor. Perhaps someone with the repair manual could see if that info is available.

That was my understanding on searching for answers today.....almost a pre-alarm to a possible event, similar to a Fire panel pre-alarm.
But there isn't really much information on the internet that I could find, never mind understand

It could be the speed the temp rises, rather than the actual temp, that then triggers the alarm. So I am wondering now if a bag or something did clog the intake completely, causing the alarm before anything actually overheated .

I ran it in the barrel for a good half hour just topping up with fresh and it seemed ok to my untrained eye.

I wouldnt expect a faulty OB considering its new, but it does happen I suppose.

Going to try get it on the water next weekend and check before putting it in for repair/ first service...ideally would like to be nearer the 20hrs if all goes well and no more errors.

[jwalker]

I think you need to take the leg off and start tracing a misfit or faulty component and/or water blockage in the water system starting at the inlet grills on the leg. Things to look for, a piece of engine build material or packing material closing off a water passage, a missed alignment of the leg water tube to the engine, impeller fault or failure, blockage within the engine water passages, a stuck closed or partially opening thermostat....there's got to be something causing the overheating.

[Sutty]

Why faff about, just take it back from whence it came and get it fixed under warranty or return it not fit for purpose. You have the proof that it has not been used much.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sutty

Why faff about, just take it back from whence it came and get it fixed under warranty or return it not fit for purpose. You have the proof that it has not been used much.

And what if it was operator error?

[neil.mccrirrick]

OP says he will put it back in the water and ty again. Absolutely the right thing to do based on the codes and evidence here.

[Robmac]

Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick

OP says he will put it back in the water and ty again. Absolutely the right thing to do based on the codes and evidence here.

I agree, everything may be just fine.

I wouldn't do any tinkering which may affect the warranty.

[Sutty]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

And what if it was operator error?

The operator hasn’t admitted to any error, surely it would be up to the retailer to prove it anyway!

[Sutty]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

And what if it was operator error?

The operator hasn’t admitted to any error, surely it would be up to the retailer to prove it anyway!

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by jwalker

I think you need to take the leg off and start tracing a misfit or faulty component and/or water blockage in the water system starting at the inlet grills on the leg. Things to look for, a piece of engine build material or packing material closing off a water passage, a missed alignment of the leg water tube to the engine, impeller fault or failure, blockage within the engine water passages, a stuck closed or partially opening thermostat....there's got to be something causing the overheating.

Really! and definitely null & void any warranty. You wouldnt do that with a new car, would you?

I think Brian is doing the right thing. He's tested in a barrel, test it back out on the water (with a back up plan back to shore if anything goes wrong). If all appears to be OK, service at 20hrs and take it from there.