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Old 16 September 2013, 19:31   #1
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New member needs help. 2001 yamaha 25hp 4-stroke not starting. Video included

Hello all. I am so glad to have found this site. I recently bought a 10-foot RIB with 2001 F25TLRZ 4-stroke outboard. The boat was running great and one day it just shut off and never turned back on. It cranked just fine but did not start. After doing some inspecting I discovered that the fuel filter water separator was corroded so badly that it was causing leaks. I have since bought a new filter with a new head and clear bottom bowl. I installed the filter but the engine still wouldn't start. again, it cranked just fine but would not start. Until today it stopped cranking all together. The starter motor does lift and try to move the wheel but it doesn't, it stutters. I know for a fact its not the battery. Did I burn the starter from trying to start it so many times? I have uploaded a video of what is happening. Thanks in advance for any help!

2013 09 15 18 06 01 896 - YouTube
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Old 16 September 2013, 19:55   #2
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try taking the plugs out and turn it over , see if it s any different
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Old 16 September 2013, 19:59   #3
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Originally Posted by ruiz2728 View Post
Hello all. I am so glad to have found this site. I recently bought a 10-foot RIB with 2001 F25TLRZ 4-stroke outboard. The boat was running great and one day it just shut off and never turned back on. It cranked just fine but did not start. After doing some inspecting I discovered that the fuel filter water separator was corroded so badly that it was causing leaks. I have since bought a new filter with a new head and clear bottom bowl. I installed the filter but the engine still wouldn't start. again, it cranked just fine but would not start. Until today it stopped cranking all together. The starter motor does lift and try to move the wheel but it doesn't, it stutters. I know for a fact its not the battery. Did I burn the starter from trying to start it so many times? I have uploaded a video of what is happening. Thanks in advance for any help!

2013 09 15 18 06 01 896 - YouTube
If say the battery is flat. How are you sure it's not? It's turning so its more likely not got power. Have you taken the plugs out? I'd start there if you had water coming in there is every chance there is water in the carbs. You may be lucky if you clean the plugs it will fire but I suspect if water has gone through you will need to clean the carbs and change the engine fuel filter
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Old 16 September 2013, 23:21   #4
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Originally Posted by Tim&Linda View Post
try taking the plugs out and turn it over , see if it s any different

I will try that and let you know what happens.
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Old 16 September 2013, 23:29   #5
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Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick View Post
If say the battery is flat. How are you sure it's not? It's turning so its more likely not got power. Have you taken the plugs out? I'd start there if you had water coming in there is every chance there is water in the carbs. You may be lucky if you clean the plugs it will fire but I suspect if water has gone through you will need to clean the carbs and change the engine fuel filter
I know it's not the battery because I tried another fully charged battery and it behaved the same way. I have not tried turning it over with the plugs out. I will try that and get back to you. I already changed the fuel filter. If none else works I will remove and clean the carbs. Thanks.

My question is; why was it cranking so great and now all of a sudden it cranks like this. What changed? My only guess is i burned the starter?
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Old 16 September 2013, 23:31   #6
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why was it cranking so great and now all of a sudden it cranks like this. What changed? My only guess is i burned the starter?
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Old 17 September 2013, 03:45   #7
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don't clean the carbs yet , you need to get it turning , when you have taken the plugs out clean them and just check for water , if that looks good then try and remove starter motor , and test that in a vice with a block of wood or take it in to be tested, and check connections it seems like you don't have enough power or you loosing it somewhere
Good luck
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Old 17 September 2013, 08:02   #8
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Have you tried pull starting it?
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Old 17 September 2013, 13:41   #9
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Have you tried pull starting it?
No, I just learned that all yamahas with electric start have the emergency rope start option. Pretty neat. I'll definitely give a go today. Thanks
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Old 17 September 2013, 13:51   #10
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No, I just learned that all yamahas with electric start have the emergency rope start option. Pretty neat. I'll definitely give a go today. Thanks
Should at least allow you to find the potential 2 problems - 1 with the starter circuit , the other with the running of the engine.

Is there an isolator switch ? - worth checking for corrision ( and the cables leading to it) if there is as this is a common problem area.

Just noticed your location - my dad lives on Statia...its a small world !
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Old 17 September 2013, 14:19   #11
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You have checked the deadman clip is in properly? Sounds crazy I know, but we've all done it.....
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Old 17 September 2013, 15:17   #12
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You have checked the deadman clip is in properly? Sounds crazy I know, but we've all done it.....
Yeah; even my boat builder on sea trials...

jky
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Old 29 September 2013, 16:39   #13
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So yesterday I decided to remove the outboard from the boat and bring it to my house. It's now on a stand and much easier to work with. Now my only problem is starting it. On the boat it starts with a turn key on the remote control box. I did not want to remove that from the boat also. How do i try to start it without the remote control box? Since the boat is in my place now I can take and upload photos immediately if anyone would like any.
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Old 30 September 2013, 05:34   #14
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Question: You know it wasn't the battery; do you know it wasn't the battery cables? Did you check voltage at the starter motor while cranking and see that it was within a volt or so of the battery voltage while cranking?

Your symptoms are pretty typical of that (either corroded or loose connections, or corroded conductors within the cable itself.)

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Old 30 September 2013, 11:06   #15
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If there is a battery isolator, 99% of them are the least water resistant switches ever designed..... I had one corrode & the choke solenoid didn't even click!
To elaborate on Jyaski's corroded cables - if your terminals are all nicely covered in heatshrink, you might find the copper conductor inside is black. If so, you are looking at new cables as the black corrosion conducts electricity a bit like wood!




Regarding the "workshop" start, what do you have to connect the engine with? - You'll need a coupe of "chunky" cables & a battery (or one of these "emergency jump start" packs for cars) to feed the motor & a smaller feed to fire the relay. (full system type test)

You could apply 12V straight to the big +ve terminal on the motor (do that direct from the batt /jump pack & use a chunky cable - beware of BIG sparks) - that would tell you if the motor itself is gubbed or not.

If you can get a 12V supply (even a toy train controller would do this) you could test the starter solenoid by applying 12V direct across it & see if it <clicks>.


One important thing - if you are testing the starter etc, remove the spark plugs - based on your question above I'm guessing you aren't 100% certain of what all the connections to the throttle do, and you will need to fit a "local" deadman / off switch to stop it if it fires (or just prevent it from firing in the first place while youtest the starter circutry) - so the safest thing would be to take the spark plugs out.
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