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Old 14 August 2018, 09:13   #121
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Hi Bruce,
It seems you've done everything aside of cutting to the chase with your consultant & Dealer and told them that the engine is too long and needs to be changed to an Long shaft.
Messing about with props and transoms should not be considered as an option furthermore I suggest that the A Frame will be fine once the right engine is installed.
Others have suggested that it's possible to change the shaft length as the gearbox and power head.
I guess this option would be the most cost effective solution in terms of financial loss for the dealer/consultant.
At the end of the day it just seems like the expert advice has been wrong.
Have you asked them why they chose an XL as it would be good to know.
My thoughts are to stop beating around the bush and put your foot down!
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Old 14 August 2018, 09:59   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucehawsker View Post
After dusting off my old papers I have found Outboard Pre Delivery Inspection on the Optimax 150.

OT919621

Can anyone tell me if this was a L or an XL?


I am asking the buyer of the scrapped engine to measure if for me but think he is on holiday....
Here you go - proof positive. Mercury 150 long shaft (20")

(It would be ME-150xl if 25")

Dont let them do any modifications to your boat. Exchange for the correct L length or if they want (you more to the point !!!) , change the drive shaft and mid section for a standard 20"L ,,,,,, expensive and time consuming, they will need to strip and rebuild the gear casing to fit the shaft and all this could affect warranty. The Suzuki system will always class it as an XL motor !
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Old 14 August 2018, 12:00   #123
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I'd be tempted to point those involved towards this thread. They may well be reading it already, but if they aren't it'll clearly indicate a level of expertise that, collectively, is quite a force to be reckoned with. Any attempt to bullsh1t a way out of this is going to get slaughtered.
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Old 16 August 2018, 22:27   #124
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Any further forward Bruce?
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Old 17 August 2018, 09:02   #125
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Any further forward Bruce?


Bruce is asking how to connect his gps/plotter/gauges up on another thread, so it looks like he's come to some arrangement of one shape or another. Looks like the engine is staying.
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Old 19 August 2018, 09:33   #126
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No, not quite. Am in amicable discussion with the re engineering firm and considering a new L engine OR a transom heightening exercise.

In either case I need to get my NMEA problem sorted.

Thanks again for help and interest. It a lonely path sometimes....
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Old 19 August 2018, 09:40   #127
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Did proper two way trial at proper trim WOT two up full tank and it was 5700rpm and 41knots. That's a full 4 or 5 less than the optimax 150. I am right in thinking that the lifting of the engine so cav plate is 1.5 inches above lowest point of hull (OR changing engine to L to achieve the same effect) is likely to give me 300rpm and a speed increase by 3 or 4 knots?

Am still wondering about the prop as well. The Opti had a 21 prop, this is a 21.5. Think they were both 16 diameter.
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Old 19 August 2018, 11:45   #128
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It isn't that simple with prop sizes.

Optimax will have been 13.75" dia and Suzuki is 16", no way the optimax can run a 16" prop as it would hit the vent plate.

As the gear ratios are different the engines need different props.

Yes raising the engine AND running it in properly will likely get you 300rpm which should equate to extra couple of knots if prop slip isn't a problem.

I won't get into the slight issue of not all outboards actually make quoted HP as they are legally allowed 10% variance, if that Suzuki is a weak 150 and optimax was a strong 150 you will always be missing some performance.
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Old 19 August 2018, 12:15   #129
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It isn't that simple with prop sizes.

Optimax will have been 13.75" dia and Suzuki is 16", no way the optimax can run a 16" prop as it would hit the vent plate.

As the gear ratios are different the engines need different props.

Yes raising the engine AND running it in properly will likely get you 300rpm which should equate to extra couple of knots if prop slip isn't a problem.

I won't get into the slight issue of not all outboards actually make quoted HP as they are legally allowed 10% variance, if that Suzuki is a weak 150 and optimax was a strong 150 you will always be missing some performance.
Good answer. That's the most sensible thing I've seen you write.
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Old 19 August 2018, 12:35   #130
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Good answer. That's the most sensible thing I've seen you write.
Unfortunately I'm still waiting on it from you....
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Old 19 August 2018, 13:04   #131
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That's better! Hehe....
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Old 19 August 2018, 14:06   #132
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Bruce, Why on earth are you even considering a transom modification?
I suggest you are being far too nice - you can’t dress up a turd!
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Old 19 August 2018, 15:25   #133
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Bruce, Why on earth are you even considering a transom modification?
I suggest you are being far too nice - you can’t dress up a turd!


[emoji106] well said .....
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Old 19 August 2018, 19:27   #134
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Originally Posted by charliee View Post
- you can’t dress up a turd!


But you can sprinkle glitter on it & have a sparkly turd[emoji6]
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Old 19 August 2018, 19:31   #135
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But you can sprinkle glitter on it & have a sparkly turd[emoji6]
Im sure on mythbusters they actually managed to get quite a shine on a dried one
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Old 19 August 2018, 19:34   #136
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Im sure on mythbusters they actually managed to get quite a shine on a dried one


I'll have to give it a try[emoji848]
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Old 29 August 2018, 18:11   #137
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Engine supplier has offered to get a new L 150 Suzi and fit it FOC and sort out any issues with getting proper performance. Will keep you posted as to progress. Thank you for all your help and support so far.
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Old 29 August 2018, 18:20   #138
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🤞🏻 really hope it works out to your satisfaction [emoji1303]
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Old 29 August 2018, 21:52   #139
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its been a learning curve - and its not over yet!
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Old 29 August 2018, 21:57   #140
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its been a learning curve - and its not over yet!

Light at the end of the tunnel...........
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