New Suzuki 150 challenges - Page 8

charliee · 30 August 2018, 06:54

Ah great stuff - when done you should reveal the dealer as I bet someone will get a good deal on a 20 hour XL shaft engine.

Jeff · 30 August 2018, 08:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucehawsker

its been a learning curve - and its not over yet!

Great news Bruce. I'm sure you will find a real difference [emoji106]

Maximus · 30 August 2018, 16:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliee

Ah great stuff - when done you should reveal the dealer as I bet someone will get a good deal on a 20 hour XL shaft engine.

Good news all round I'd say

Don't forget to post the results!

Jeff · 22 September 2018, 12:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximus

Good news all round I'd say

Don't forget to post the results!

Any update Bruce? ,,,

brucehawsker · 26 September 2018, 16:13

I am in USA but boatbuilder has reported thus - new L shaft engine!

"I've been out on seatrials this morning, the engine is performing well, see attached pics. We have changed pitch to a 3x16x23 and this is pushing her up to 44.3 Knots, the wash is significantly less, see the other pic, we are happy that that the engine is now performing to it's optimum, it is sitting at 1-1/2" above bottom of the vessel (as the boat builder recommend), this now means it will trim up under the "A" frame without issue."

Any questions I should ask to be sure it is really sorted?

NB previous prop on XL was 3x16x21.5. Pictures don't shown anything significant and the 44.3kn is not a 2 way speed trial!

Xk59D · 26 September 2018, 17:54

Amazing what engine at right height does.

I guess you need some trials to see if height is good now but sounds like you are in the ball park now.

The bugger prop now is purely down to engine being higher, ideal.

pilotwillie · 26 September 2018, 18:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucehawsker

I am in USA ....
Any questions I should ask to be sure it is really sorted?

Yes ! When is the next flight home !!!
Get out and have some fun weather permitting.
Good luck [emoji1303]

brucehawsker · 26 September 2018, 20:44

This from the boat builder
"The engine was revving out at 5750rpm, the Operating range of the DF150AP is 5k-6k so it's right in the sweet spot."

Is that right? Surely I want it to be nearer to 6000? If so, how do I get the next 250rpm?

Xk59D · 26 September 2018, 20:50

If the boat had its normal load of people and fuel when they tried it then I would leave it, running it in will probably get you a touch more after a good few hours.

You don't need to spin it up to 6k, just get close and within 250rpm would do me.

brucehawsker · 27 September 2018, 03:30

That was one up with only half fuel tank. Normal load is three more people. Does that affect the answer?

Pikey Dave · 27 September 2018, 06:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucehawsker

That was one up with only half fuel tank. Normal load is three more people. Does that affect the answer?

Yes, you might need to come down a pitch

Last Tango · 27 September 2018, 08:41

I'd leave it.
Curve pretty flat by 5750rpm and a 2" step will probably have the engine over-reving.

Result............

pilotwillie · 27 September 2018, 10:00

If they still have the XL shaft prop then you could ask them to try that and note the difference ?
But it really needs to be trialled by you first for your own piece of mind.
If manufacturer’s operating rpm range is 5-6k and it’s reported to be at 5750 WOT, that’s really pretty good [emoji1303]
It sounds like the major issue has now hopefully been resolved, and pretty well too.
Enjoy the new ride first. Worry about your ‘missing’ rpm later if you still have the urge to thrash your shiny new engine all the way to max 6k rpm (run in period having been followed exactly, obviously !).
Enjoy

Xk59D · 27 September 2018, 12:01

i'd put the XL back on

CJL · 27 September 2018, 12:11

Do we not get the sea trial photos??

Jeff · 27 September 2018, 12:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xk59D

i'd put the XL back on

brucehawsker · 27 September 2018, 13:12

Trial photos - not terribly informative

brucehawsker · 04 October 2018, 17:12

All’s well that ends well!

She is now running with an L rather than an XL shaft and with a 3x16x23 rather than a 3x16x21.5 prop. The cav plate is 1.5 inches above the bottom of the transom rather than parallel with the bottom of the transom.

The splashing has all gone!

We have moved from WOT of just under 41knots (two way GPS average) at 5700 to a very brief couple of runs at WOT of 43.8knots to 44.1knots (both two way GPS averages) . Say 3 more knots. These are provisional very, very short runs as I did not want to strain the new engine! I guess we may get a bit more when the engine has run in. RPM has gone from 5700 to around 5900 / 6000.

Engine ‘feels’ right unlike the XL, which felt aggressive at acceleration and somehow insecure at full throttle. This one feels much more like the opti 150 which I was used to and loved.

A huge thank you to everyone for their help, support, advice and encouragement.

So, only three questions left –

1. Should I try any other props or am I where I should be. At the Southampton boat show a couple of people suggested going to a 15”?

2. The cowling has white scratches on it from a collision with the A frame. The new engine does not collide with the A frame. This has been touched up with what looks like a marker pen by the boatyard. Also a patch which does not “wet” as well as the rest which looks as though it has been scratched to clean some workshop gunk off it. How best to repair both areas?

3. How do I decide what is the best setting for the adjustable tension on the throttle? It was very loose – too easy to knock into gear at rest - now it is firmer, more like the old wire cable throttle on the Opti. How do people decide on the best tension, and how do they decide where to set the neutral position?

Thx

Xk59D · 04 October 2018, 18:44

Leave the prop, you are chasing shadows. It is perfect rpm now so don't touch it.

Sounds like dealer didn't swap your cowl, tell them you want it fixed or replaced with the new cowl, it is their problem. You don't owe them any favours here.

Adjust it until it doesn't move in bumpy stuff and or feels comfortable.

Don't change the prop

Don't change the prop

Thinking of changing prop?

DONT

get the picture?

Last Tango · 04 October 2018, 20:15

Sounds pretty much bang on....

Don't waste money buggering about with props, what you have sounds just about perfect and if you could extract an extra half knot (that you'll probably never use) from another prop it would just cost you elsewhere....acceleration, fuel consumption, whatever, definitely not worth it.

.

Regards throttle tension, it's really just what you're comfortable with. If it's set too loose you'll get "creep" particularly if its mounted on a steep face on the console. I like mine so as I can rest my hand on it without it moving and just needs a bit of pressure to move it and a tap with a couple of fingers does for "fine adjustment". I don't like it too loose as you go to give the trim a "tweek", hit a wave and the throttle gets a "shove" instead. But it's very much a personal thing.

My "neutral" is set eight degrees back (because that's as far as the standard Merc kit will allow) This is both to give me full sweep for my throttle in forward gear and also because my throttle's mounted at a wee bit of a stretch when seated. Again what suits you and the boat layout.

Good luck with the new engine.....go out and enjoy it....