Not enough power to Etec starter motor

[congerman]

I like my 2016 60hp etec so please don’t give me a bashing.

Starter motor could only just turn over.

I’ve ruled out battery and cabling to engine ( new 600MCA battery and no voltage drop at engine)
The pots are clean, plugs clean and I can turn the crank from the flywheel by hand even if the plugs are in.
There is a constant 12.9V where power connects to engine.
When starter key turns, voltage at starter motor is only 1.2v and drops to zero as soon as motor turns. I’ve not yet put 12v direct to starter motor in case this is a stupid idea.

As the starter motor tries to turn I don’t think this is problem it just needs 12v

It’s the bit between where the live in joins the part that then supplies live to the starter motor.

Ideas gratefully invited
Cheers
Richard

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by congerman

I like my 2016 60hp etec so please don’t give me a bashing.

Starter motor could only just turn over.

I’ve ruled out battery and cabling to engine ( new 600MCA battery and no voltage drop at engine)
The pots are clean, plugs clean and I can turn the crank from the flywheel by hand even if the plugs are in.
There is a constant 12.9V where power connects to engine.
When starter key turns, voltage at starter motor is only 1.2v and drops to zero as soon as motor turns. I’ve not yet put 12v direct to starter motor in case this is a stupid idea.

As the starter motor tries to turn I don’t think this is problem it just needs 12v

It’s the bit between where the live in joins the part that then supplies live to the starter motor.

Ideas gratefully invited
Cheers
Richard

Dodgy solenoid

[Tim M]

Could still be a poor connection or dodgy cable - even if you're showing good voltage, it might not be be getting the amperage it needs due to corrosion or a damaged cable or similar.

[neil.mccrirrick]

Are all cables tight at the battery and starter motor ends

[Pikey Dave]

You need to check the voltages through the system when the engine is cranking. You should have 9-11 Volts minimum at the starter with a healthy battery & the engine cranking.

[paintman]

What did you test your voltage drop with?
If a digital multimeter then it may well show battery voltage but if there is an issue with the cable the cable may not be passing sufficent to operate the starter motor.

Had a fuel pump not running issue on my Range Rover Classic. Pump worked fine when it was connected to a spare battery.
Digital MM showed battery voltage present at the pump connector on the loom.
Much head scratching & then tried a home made 12v tester using a headlight bulb with a crocodile clip on a wire on one bulb connector & a pin soldered to a wire on the other. Attach croc clip to a good clean earth (or even to the battery with a long enough lead) Nothing, not even a glow.
Working back from the connector by pushing the pin through the live wire sheath put the light on about an inch from the connector.
Stripping the wire showed that years of exposure to road spray etc had corroded the wire to a couple of strands.
Enough to show normal on a MM but not to light the bulb - much like having a water hose nozzle turned right down.
Cutting it back to good wire restored normal running.

Have also had the issue on the boat. Cable ends at the battery were in the type of terminal clamp where the wire is held in by two screws. Surface corrosion on the wire meant that all I got was a click when trying to start. Removed & cleaned the ends with a wire brush & all was well.

Check & clean the cable attachment points as a starter.

Also, the battery might well be new but don't assume.
Same warning for testing the voltage with a multimeter applies.
Fully charge with a battery charger & see what happens.

[Pikey Dave]

On a separate note. Etecs are susceptible to frying the EMM if the battery connections are iffy & you’re looking at over £1k to replace an EMM.

[congerman]

Thanks guys. Yes voltages measured were just on a multimeter. No load.
Oh dear. Something to do after work today.
I really appreciate your fast responses

[mikehhogg]

take a jump lead from positive side of battery and touch off the heavy terminal on starter.That will rule out the starter presuming you have a good earth, sounds like the solenoid contacts.

[congerman]

And the answer was...
The brand new “fully charged sir ready to go” battery.
Left on trickle charger for 24 hours.
Leapt into life.
My thanks to all responders. PM me if you are going through Saltash after lockdown and I’ll buy you a pint on the waterside.
Richard

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by congerman

And the answer was...
The brand new “fully charged sir ready to go” battery.
Left on trickle charger for 24 hours.
Leapt into life.
My thanks to all responders. PM me if you are going through Saltash after lockdown and I’ll buy you a pint on the waterside.
Richard

Glad you’re sorted. For the sake of the EMM, I’d still go through the battery wiring & give it a full checkup. You might have an intermittent fault.

[paintman]

Good result. Thanks for letting us know.

[BriggTrim]

Hi...Two distinct segments. You can supplant them separately.

Do a load test...Take a meter and really take a look at voltage at the battery while wrenching the motor...then check at the solenoid while cranking...then check at the starter while turning. Report back the numbers so we can perceive how the voltage drops.

I had comparative issues in the no so distant past and this was the test prescribed for me to attempt. I can't recollect the specific numbers however I "think" you need a most un-11.7 V at the starter while turning the motor...If that number isn't right will one of the specialists if it's not too much trouble, right me.

[jonp]

I tend to buy and sell a fair few boats and 4x4's and recently purchased a battery and alternator tester which comes in very handy for testing all my batteries and saves me getting ripped off by service stations that charge a fortune for diagnostic checks etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyBm-tJt47g