optimax winterising

[gtflash]

im sure i found the procedure for winterising a 200 optimax somewhere, but I cant find it anywhere now!?!?!?!

Anyone point me in right direction or know it off by heart!

Ta GT

[Mollers]

The best 200 Opti winterization proceedure I've heard of is to chuck it in Oct and buy a new one in April.

[Mollers]

With my Opti, I added the correct amount of fuel stabilizer, ran it for 5 mins the last minute on a 50/50 antifreeze mix whilst stalling it on fogging oil. I'd then whiff the bits under the cowl and the back of the instruments with GT85. Disconnect the battery, gave it a cuddle and put it to bed. It always started 1st turn the following season.

[PeterM]

I was told that you can plug it in to some laptop & it'll inject just oil & no gas. Of course that after you have ran stabilized petrol through it , spray it up etc & done.

I just paid someone else to sort it - ( I was was very close to mollers solution at the end of october ! ) I couldn't be arsed to do it myself . Its the only engine I'll ever winterise as all the other get used all year round - thats the best way to look after them I think !

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by Blackroady

I was told that you can plug it in to some laptop & it'll inject just oil & no gas.

Not heard of that. My current Etec has a clever 'winterize mode' which lumps in oil to effectively fog it.

[spittle123]

Originally Posted by Mollers

Not heard of that. My current Etec has a clever 'winterize mode' which lumps in oil to effectively fog it.

hi do you know where i can get the stuff to get antifoul off my hull or whats best to use thanks paul

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by spittle123

hi do you know where i can get the stuff to get antifoul off my hull or whats best to use thanks paul

I wouldn't even try Paul. When anti-foul first goes on the hull is 'keyed' which is a light sanding. This takes the shiney surface off of the gelcoat, it'll never look like a new hull. I'd would've prefered it not anti-fouled. However, it does have it's advantages. Any marks can be easily touched in, my grey gelcoat is a different story.

[gtflash]

i read somewhere you shouldnt fog optimaxs???

[Turbodiesel]

There you go, just copied this from the service book. Sounds like alot, but its pretty easy!!

Fill the fuel system (tank, hoses, fuel pumps, and fuel injection systems) with treated (stabilized)
fuel to help prevent formation of varnish and gum. Proceed with following instructions.
1. Portable Fuel Tank – Pour the required amount of Gasoline Stabilizer (follow instructions
on container) into fuel tank. Tip fuel tank back and forth to mix stabilizer with the
fuel.
2. Permanently Installed Fuel Tank – Pour the required amount of Gasoline Stabilizer
(follow instructions on container) into a separate container and mix with approximately
one quart (one liter) of gasoline. Pour this mixture into fuel tank.
3. Remove the water separating fuel filter from engine. Empty the fuel into a suitable container
and discard the filter properly.

4. Premix the following in a container:
8cc (0.27 oz) or 2 teaspoons of Quickleen Engine Treatment.
8cc (0.27 oz) or 2 teaspoons of Fuel Stabilizer.
5. Pour this mixture in a new water separator fuel filter on Model Year 2000/2001/2002.
Reinstall the fuel filter. On Model Year 2003 and newer, remove fuel water separator
filter and pour mixture into vapor separator tank. Reinstall fuel water separator filter.
6. Prime the fuel system as outlined in the Starting Procedure.
7. Place the outboard in water or connect flushing attachment for circulating cooling water.
Run the engine at idle speed for 10 minutes to allow treated fuel to fill the fuel system.
PROTECTING INTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENTS
NOTE: Make sure the fuel system has been prepared for storage.
1. Remove the spark plugs and add approximately 30ml (one ounce) of engine oil into
each spark plug hole. Rotate the flywheel manually several times to distribute the oil
in the cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.
PROTECTING EXTERNAL OUTBOARD COMPONENTS
1. Lubricate all outboard components listed in the Inspection and Maintenance Schedule.
2. Touch up any paint nicks. See your dealer for touch-up paint.
3. Spray Corrosion Guard on external metal surfaces (except corrosion control anodes).
GEARCASE
Drain and refill the gearcase lubricant (refer to maintenance procedure).

[Turbodiesel]

Originally Posted by gtflash

i read somewhere you shouldnt fog optimaxs???

Very true, it can cause all sorts of problems, blocking up injectors etc!

[PeterM]

I guess all this is why I paid the local merc dealer !

[gtflash]

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

Very true, it can cause all sorts of problems, blocking up injectors etc!

thankyou TD

[spittle123]

Originally Posted by Mollers

I wouldn't even try Paul. When anti-foul first goes on the hull is 'keyed' which is a light sanding. This takes the shiney surface off of the gelcoat, it'll never look like a new hull. I'd would've prefered it not anti-fouled. However, it does have it's advantages. Any marks can be easily touched in, my grey gelcoat is a different story.

cheers mollers it was just the transome and the first panel on the sides i wanted to do cheers enyway paul

[tonymac]

I have put my Optimax 90 away for the winter but have done none of the above!!

I flushed her out after a days boating on freshwater. Topped off the internal tanks - petrol and oil, sprayed the engine with WD40 and then put her into the garage trimmed fully down. Garage is dry but no heat and in a relatively frost free area (near the sea).

Will I really have problems if I don't do anything else? (This is my first winter and the boat/engine was new in June 2008).

[PeterM]

I've done this with all my current/ previous motors & never had a problem. I only winterised my opti as it will live outside over the winter. Never had a problem with any of them !

[tonymac]

Originally Posted by Blackroady

I've done this with all my current/ previous motors & never had a problem. I only winterised my opti as it will live outside over the winter. Never had a problem with any of them !

Many thanks Blackroady - putting my mind at ease.

[Turbodiesel]

The biggest problem is unleaded fuel going off after a few months, cant tell you how many months!, but it does go off and leaves a sticky brown tar like goo all over the place. Really you should either drain the fuel out or run some fuel stabilizer through the tanks and the engine to stop it going off.

[PeterM]

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

The biggest problem is unleaded fuel going off after a few months, cant tell you how many months!, but it does go off and leaves a sticky brown tar like goo all over the place. Really you should either drain the fuel out or run some fuel stabilizer through the tanks and the engine to stop it going off.

The opti is the only boat/ engibne I have ever run stablizer through. Over the last 7 years I have had my Jetski sit for months in the garage with a tank full of gas, Johnson 3.5 & 8hp , Yam 50 & Suzuki 2.5 have all sat in the garage for up to 5 months with no issue of the petrol going off . Have I just been very very lucky with these ? , or is petrol better know than it used to be ?

[tonymac]

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

The biggest problem is unleaded fuel going off after a few months, cant tell you how many months!, but it does go off and leaves a sticky brown tar like goo all over the place. Really you should either drain the fuel out or run some fuel stabilizer through the tanks and the engine to stop it going off.

I have never encountered this. I have left my lawnmower in the garage for months every year and no effect on the fuel. I have also left cans of unleaded for the mower for months and no effect.

Having said that I have ordered a bottle of stabiliser and will add it to the petrol. I hope to have the boat out again in March and it has only been out of action now four weeks.

[PeterM]

Have done a bit of googling of petrol going off and it seems ( to me ) that it is dependant on engine type & if air can get at the petrol. Some engines dont seem to suffer , some do.

I suppose in a fairly newish injected motor no air should get to the petrol in the engine , but will in the tank, so as it evaoprates it leaves this brown 'varnish' like substance.

All seems very hit & miss to me , but I'll try & top up the tanks on everything before using again & I try to reduce the amount I hold in the tanks over the winter ( except the main built in S/S tank in the Shearwater which is topped right up to stop condensation & has additive anyway)