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03 April 2013, 18:44
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Outboard maintenance
I have a two stroke 25hp tohatsu outboard. I wanted to know what the best product is for protecting my outboard.
After checking under the cowl, I saw that some salt had built up ontop of the pull start and other parts. There are also 1 or two areas where some surfact rust has built up. I am planning to do a though clean. I have a fine wire brush which came with the outboard. But obviously I want it to stay looking nice and clean. I have seen the quicksilver protection spray. Will this do the trick, or is there a cheap or even more effective product I could use.
Also, I have been told by a number of people that annual services are just a scam to get you to pay out. The outboard is working fine e.g. pumping water well etc. Would it be a good idea to buy the service kit and change the impeller, gear oil, spark plugs etc, or shall I just go by the phrase 'If its not broken don't fix it!'
Would it also be a good idea to grease the prop shaft regularly?
Thanks for help
Henry
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03 April 2013, 18:54
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
I have a two stroke 25hp tohatsu outboard. I wanted to know what the best product is for protecting my outboard.
After checking under the cowl, I saw that some salt had built up ontop of the pull start and other parts. There are also 1 or two areas where some surfact rust has built up. I am planning to do a though clean. I have a fine wire brush which came with the outboard. But obviously I want it to stay looking nice and clean. I have seen the quicksilver protection spray. Will this do the trick, or is there a cheap or even more effective product I could use.
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Try this:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can...-/271111241466
Does the same job as QS corrosion guard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
Also, I have been told by a number of people that annual services are just a scam to get you to pay out. The outboard is working fine e.g. pumping water well etc. Would it be a good idea to buy the service kit and change the impeller, gear oil, spark plugs etc, or shall I just go by the phrase 'If its not broken don't fix it!'
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Whoever's telling you that is a muppet.
Yes, buy the service kit. You won't know if something's wrong 'til you break down if you don't at least inspect it and regrease everything.
Yearly gear oil changes are important too. You won't know if there's water in the gearbox unless you do them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
Would it also be a good idea to grease the prop shaft regularly?
Thanks for help
Henry
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Yes.Yearly at least.
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03 April 2013, 19:00
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#3
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Member
Country: Other
Town: isla plana spain
Make: humber/yam 360s
Length: 5m +
Engine: outboard 90+15+20
MMSI: mmsi 235907606
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
I have a two stroke 25hp tohatsu outboard. I wanted to know what the best product is for protecting my outboard.
After checking under the cowl, I saw that some salt had built up ontop of the pull start and other parts. There are also 1 or two areas where some surfact rust has built up. I am planning to do a though clean. I have a fine wire brush which came with the outboard. But obviously I want it to stay looking nice and clean. I have seen the quicksilver protection spray. Will this do the trick, or is there a cheap or even more effective product I could use.
Also, I have been told by a number of people that annual services are just a scam to get you to pay out. The outboard is working fine e.g. pumping water well etc. Would it be a good idea to buy the service kit and change the impeller, gear oil, spark plugs etc, or shall I just go by the phrase 'If its not broken don't fix it!'
Would it also be a good idea to grease the prop shaft regularly?
Thanks for help
Henry
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hi henry, the wire brush will be brass & is for cleaning the plugs. whatever else you dont do do not neglect the gear oil, change twice a year costs very low & grease the prop shaft, you dont want that seizing, spray power head with wd40 if you want to save a bob
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03 April 2013, 19:01
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Personally I change the impeller every year, it may sound a bit much but for £20 it gives me piece of mind, it's also a chance to drop a little lube on all threads on the pump, gearbox bolts and the prop shaft splines that mate with the crankshaft. Whilst its on the bench I change the oil and grease the prop hub splines replacing the split pin while I'm at it.
As for the engine, it's just a check/replace affair, plugs, filters, leads ect. A little lube on all pivot points helps too.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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03 April 2013, 19:14
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Try this:- Action Can - Supertrol 001 Rust Proofing Fluid | eBay
Does the same job as QS corrosion guard.
Whoever's telling you that is a muppet.
Yes, buy the service kit. You won't know if something's wrong 'til you break down if you don't at least inspect it and regrease everything.
Yearly gear oil changes are important too. You won't know if there's water in the gearbox unless you do them.Yes.Yearly at least.
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Is there a decent thread on servicing a small 2 stroke engine?
The service kit come with
1x Tohatsu 345-65021-0 Impeller
1x Tohatsu 346-02230-0 Fuel Filter Assembly
2x Quicksilver Premium Gear Lube Tube 237ml (92-802844Q02)
what else do I need? They are asking £59 for this, is that reasonable?
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03 April 2013, 19:15
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: snagglepuss
Make: Shetland
Length: 6m +
Engine: 90 hp Outboard
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
I have a two stroke 25hp tohatsu outboard. I wanted to know what the best product is for protecting my outboard.
After checking under the cowl, I saw that some salt had built up ontop of the pull start and other parts. There are also 1 or two areas where some surfact rust has built up. I am planning to do a though clean. I have a fine wire brush which came with the outboard. But obviously I want it to stay looking nice and clean. I have seen the quicksilver protection spray. Will this do the trick, or is there a cheap or even more effective product I could use.
Also, I have been told by a number of people that annual services are just a scam to get you to pay out. The outboard is working fine e.g. pumping water well etc. Would it be a good idea to buy the service kit and change the impeller, gear oil, spark plugs etc, or shall I just go by the phrase 'If its not broken don't fix it!'
Would it also be a good idea to grease the prop shaft regularly?
Thanks for help
Henry
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Are these people who also dont service the car or anything else!
as others have stated some jobs must be done and it would be silly not to, but as for who does it, well thats your choice in the same way some people service their own car and some use a garage. Having said that, it does tend to be a but more fun than calling the AA when your outboard stops working so if you do go down the DIY option just dont muck it up
oh this might also help
Servicing | Glasgow and Clyde Outboard Services Outboard Engine Servicing
dave
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03 April 2013, 19:17
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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thanks for all of the replies. My checklist is:
- service engine by changing spark plugs, gear oil, fuel filter, impeller
- clean any surface rust, salt or grime from the engine
- spray engine with anti rust fluid
- grease prop shaft
Sounds ok?
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03 April 2013, 19:54
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
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Grease all grease point , grease spline When offering back up to power head after impeller change. Clean stainless insert in water pump housing of scale grease all mating surfaces on water pump housing. Grease the bolts for the unit to mid section . Basically grease the shit out of everything
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03 April 2013, 21:18
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fenwick & Arran
Boat name: The Black Mark
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner Bigfoot 60hp
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 99
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For what it's worth....bought mine last year (mariner 60 2-stroke) from a dealer who swore it had been serviced. It was temperamental all season. Had if properly serviced over the winter and its like a completely different engine - starting, idling, general running all better. Worth the money for the peace of mind. I'm no mechanic though so wouldn't even attempt self service - too many bad DIY experiences which ended up costing more money in the end.
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03 April 2013, 21:21
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedrode
For what it's worth....bought mine last year (mariner 60 2-stroke) from a dealer who swore it had been serviced. It was temperamental all season. Had if properly serviced over the winter and its like a completely different engine - starting, idling, general running all better. Worth the money for the peace of mind. I'm no mechanic though so wouldn't even attempt self service - too many bad DIY experiences which ended up costing more money in the end.
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well, i am only looking at replacing the really simple things such as the gear oil and impeller. I wouldn't attempt anything such as stripping the head
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03 April 2013, 21:37
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fenwick & Arran
Boat name: The Black Mark
Make: Humber Assault
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner Bigfoot 60hp
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 99
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If I was more confident about these things I would do the same. I guess it depends on how handy you are!
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03 April 2013, 21:51
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedrode
If I was more confident about these things I would do the same. I guess it depends on how handy you are!
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I think as long as you start with simple jobs, you learn and progress. For example my little 4hp mariner wasn't running right. Got told it was probably a dirty carb. I went straight in at te deep end by removing the carb, stripping and cleaning it. Only problem was I ruptured the gaskets causing an air leak. I learn from that. To be more careful. I still only know minimal things about engines, but youtube videos help me out loads, going through it step by step. Try it, might surprise yourself
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03 April 2013, 21:56
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#13
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,913
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A simple service of a carbed 2 stroke isn't rocket science. If something needs fixed or adjusted then it's a bit more complicated. I did my wee 9.8 and it was very handy.
Get a manual and read it
Get the parts
Get a gear lube pump kit
Get new gear box screw seals/washers
Use the right grease
Be gentle with stuff...
The first service might cost you as much as a "shop" job, but you will learn soooo much and the next service will cost you buttons.
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03 April 2013, 21:57
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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I had a very nasty experience of so called 'expert' marine engineers destroying a perfectly good engine so I won't be either using or recommending them but you have to accept that most of these guys are working on marine engines every day & have the best equipment & knowledge to pick up potential problems !!! Let's face it NOBODY wants a breakdown at sea. We never worried too much in the Lake District when all it meant was a lot of paddling to shore, a little different in the sea when your life & that of others might depend on it !!
Part of the fun of owning a boat for me is working on it & most jobs are fairly straight forward if you have the tools plus there's a wealth of information on t'internet.....
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03 April 2013, 22:02
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
A simple service of a carbed 2 stroke isn't rocket science. If something needs fixed or adjusted then it's a bit more complicated. I did my wee 9.8 and it was very handy.
Get a manual and read it
Get the parts
Get a gear lube pump kit
Get new gear box screw seals/washers
Use the right grease
Be gentle with stuff...
The first service might cost you as much as a "shop" job, but you will learn soooo much and the next service will cost you buttons.
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Why?
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03 April 2013, 22:18
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
Why?
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Because you may be "tooling up" for the job. A lot of the consumables are cheap in bulk but will do many services. Do you have proper marine rated grease? Prop pins? block spray?
FYI, check the plugs before you bin them, they may be fine or be of use as a backup set.
Don't forget to check/replace the pull start rope (if you have one).
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03 April 2013, 22:19
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
thanks for all of the replies. My checklist is:
- service engine by changing spark plugs, gear oil, fuel filter, impeller
- clean any surface rust, salt or grime from the engine
- spray engine with anti rust fluid
- grease prop shaft
Sounds ok?
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The fuel filter reservoir on the engine can be cleaned, rather than replacing. Simply disconnect, rinse the mesh filter with a little methylated spirit, ditching any petrol in the reservoir, then reconnect. Prime the fuel bulb to get the petrol through the system. External water/fuel filters are a different story and need to be replaced annually.
Only thing I'd add is to replace the start cord/rope. I had a Yammie 25hp starter cord break on me and had to get a salmon fish farm boat tow me in. Replaced the cord every other year there after.
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Is that with or without VAT?
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03 April 2013, 22:21
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
The fuel filter reservoir on the engine can be cleaned, rather than replacing. Simply disconnect, rinse the mesh filter with a little methylated spirit, ditching any petrol in the reservoir, then reconnect. Prime the fuel bulb to get the petrol through the system. External water/fuel filters are a different story and need to be replaced annually.
Only thing I'd add is to replace the start cord/rope. I had a Yammie 25hp starter cord break on me and had to get a salmon fish farm boat tow me in. Replaced the cord every other year there after.
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Yeh, I got a spare starter rope so I will replace that soon. But at the moment it is fiiine condition
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03 April 2013, 22:24
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#19
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
Yeh, I got a spare starter rope so I will replace that soon. But at the moment it is fiiine condition
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A suggestion - replace it before it appears to need it. You then have a spare AND you know how to fit it
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03 April 2013, 22:27
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
a suggestion - replace it before it appears to need it. You then have a spare and you know how to fit it
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plan
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