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18 October 2013, 11:59
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 32
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Outboard winterisation needs fuel stabiliser?
Hi all,
About to do winterisation on my outboard, do I need fuel stabiliser? How do I use it? what stabiliser do I buy? How does it help?
Thanks everyone.
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18 October 2013, 13:15
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#2
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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How much is there ethanol in the fuel you are using? If its less than 5% would not worry too much(pending on storage time), but anyway worth emptying the carbs / fuel lines before storage. I run only 98E(5% ethanol) and never had an issue(I dont use stabilizer) and the off seson is pretty long over here.
But, if unsure maybe bettre to use stabilizer or Aspen fuel.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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18 October 2013, 13:57
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-NUMB
How much is there ethanol in the fuel you are using? If its less than 5% would not worry too much(pending on storage time), but anyway worth emptying the carbs / fuel lines before storage. I run only 98E(5% ethanol) and never had an issue(I dont use stabilizer) and the off seson is pretty long over here.
But, if unsure maybe bettre to use stabilizer or Aspen fuel.
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Thanks for your reply. I don't know this much technical information. I just buy unleaded fuel from the petrol station (e.g. Shell station). Do you think I need to use fuel stabiliser then?
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18 October 2013, 14:53
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#4
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Hants
Length: 8m +
Engine: 300hp plus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,072
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Our marine engineers advice us to do one of two things for winter
1. Empty tanks completely and drain down fule lines and filters
or
2. Fill the fuel tanks to full and add stabliser, being full will then prevent condensation (i.e water) building up. Then drain filter down and fuel lines.
The second way allows us to get out if needed at short notice and top up at end of day during cold months.
The advice seems to be if not being used do number 2 from what I am told
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18 October 2013, 15:49
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2 RIBS
Our marine engineers advice us to do one of two things for winter
1. Empty tanks completely and drain down fule lines and filters
or
2. Fill the fuel tanks to full and add stabliser, being full will then prevent condensation (i.e water) building up. Then drain filter down and fuel lines.
The second way allows us to get out if needed at short notice and top up at end of day during cold months.
The advice seems to be if not being used do number 2 from what I am told
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Thanks for your reply. As I am very new to boating, I will be asking some "dumb" questions. I beg your pardon.
When you say "Empty fuel tanks", do you mean the usually red fuel tank? How do I drain down the fuel line and filters in the outboard? or are you referring to the fuel line in the fuel tank that you attach to the outboard and where's the fuel filter?
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18 October 2013, 17:22
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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Simplest way for me is to put the outboard in a tank of freshwater . Run it until warm then disconnect the fuel line at the engine & let it tickover until it dies. I then assume the carbs are pretty empty. I then empty the rest of the fuel into a car (if it's petrol usually) or it sits in a fuel can until next year when I top my ride-on lawnmowers up !
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18 October 2013, 21:18
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#7
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddlers
Simplest way for me is to put the outboard in a tank of freshwater . Run it until warm then disconnect the fuel line at the engine & let it tickover until it dies. I then assume the carbs are pretty empty. I then empty the rest of the fuel into a car (if it's petrol usually) or it sits in a fuel can until next year when I top my ride-on lawnmowers up !
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There is one issue wit this procedure. You will strain the fuel pump as it has to work against vacuum if the line/connector is removed. This is easily fixed by leaving the fuel connector but remove the line from it, this way there is no vacuum.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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19 October 2013, 00:42
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South West
Boat name: Das Boot
Make: Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu, 20
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleekh
Thanks for your reply. I don't know this much technical information. I just buy unleaded fuel from the petrol station (e.g. Shell station). Do you think I need to use fuel stabiliser then?
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A mate of mine works at a petrol station (sainsbury's) and reckons that all petrol is at least 5% bio ethanol in the EU by law now.
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19 October 2013, 08:22
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Twin 50 Mariners
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 185
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Is there any way to find out what the ethanol percentage is in the fuel you're buying in the UK? Doesn't seem to be anything on the pumps about it....
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19 October 2013, 11:04
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithyyy
Is there any way to find out what the ethanol percentage is in the fuel you're buying in the UK? Doesn't seem to be anything on the pumps about it....
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Assume 5%, but 10% (E10) is on its way, it's already at the pumps in Europe. Ethanol is used as an octane booster, "premium" £uels like Shell Vpower have higher ethanol% than bog standard unleaded, be warned
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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19 October 2013, 12:10
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#11
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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If only 5 % ethanol, that stays OK in full tank for a reasonable long time.
The most extreme i have tested is 15 month old E5 premix fuel. I did mix it 50% with fresh stuff and had 10 micron filter, no issues at all. Not that i dear to recommend doing it .....
I used to winterize with Aspen fuel but was told that some gaskets might "shrink" so now i only run the system empty together with spraying fogging oil (I hav only 2 stroke carb engines) and so far it has worked fine.
E10 i don't touch, its not compatible for most old style engines and gets old very fast(hav heard).
__________________
fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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24 January 2014, 12:21
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Emsworth
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 17
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Aspen fuel
Hi all,
I am Eddie the tech guy for Aspen fuels here in the ok. Please feel free to ask me questions.
I will only give out facts.
Kind regards
Eddie Bocquillon
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24 January 2014, 17:08
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Emsworth
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-NUMB
If only 5 % ethanol, that stays OK in full tank for a reasonable long time.
The most extreme i have tested is 15 month old E5 premix fuel. I did mix it 50% with fresh stuff and had 10 micron filter, no issues at all. Not that i dear to recommend doing it .....
I used to winterize with Aspen fuel but was told that some gaskets might "shrink" so now i only run the system empty together with spraying fogging oil (I hav only 2 stroke carb engines) and so far it has worked fine.
E10 i don't touch, its not compatible for most old style engines and gets old very fast(hav heard).
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Hi, We have had some rubberised parts harden.
These are parts that would fail with the use of normal fuels.
Aspen can't damage anything!
What it will do is wash out the ethanol and solvents that have soaked into the rubber parts from the normal fuel. This can cause them the harden or contract.
It is very rare and these parts are in most cases service items and so cheap to replace if needed. We have sold many thousands of litres and I only know of 20 engines that have had this problem in the UK.
Kind regards
Eddie
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24 January 2014, 18:55
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
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Unleaded Fuel doesn't go stale quick these days.
My fuel tank always left connected to the engine
Just switch off, shut the bleed and leave it alone!
I run mine every 3 weeks either by using it at sea or on the hose, I find the best way to keep things tip top is to keep using them.
Simples! :-)
Also I used 3 year old fuel in an inboard v8 engine.
No problem at all!
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24 January 2014, 21:56
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Boat name: SR4.7
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 EFI
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribandmotorhome
Unleaded Fuel doesn't go stale quick these days.
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Rubbish.
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24 January 2014, 22:01
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samt
Rubbish.
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Never had the problem myself with stale fuel since the 1980's.
Mind you I have noticed a huge difference in the quality of diesel at the pumps.
The car does 10mpg less from some garages.
I assume it's the same for unleaded.
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25 January 2014, 08:21
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
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Last time i used the boat was 2 weeks ago.
I filled it with fuel from jerry cans that are always about round here.
I just checked my receipts out if interest to see how old the fuel was (as I couldn't remember)
They were filled up 24th of May 2013! So the fuel was around 7 months old, no issues whatsoever.
Maybe i have just been lucky over the years but people are not wintering the boats for longer than this are they?
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25 January 2014, 09:47
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Emsworth
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribandmotorhome
Last time i used the boat was 2 weeks ago.
I filled it with fuel from jerry cans that are always about round here.
I just checked my receipts out if interest to see how old the fuel was (as I couldn't remember)
They were filled up 24th of May 2013! So the fuel was around 7 months old, no issues whatsoever.
Maybe i have just been lucky over the years but people are not wintering the boats for longer than this are they?
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Hi,
It seams you have been lucky. Unleaded fuel does "Go off" just check with any garden machinery dealer / Classic bike dealer. Fuel kept in sealed cans and large quantities seams to keep better. If you check with most engine manufactures they will say not to use fuel that is over 30 days old.
If an engine is multi cylinder or fuel injected it does not seam to affect them as much.
You can still get deposit build up and this will reduce the size of the jets in a carburettored engine and so give poor running.
Pump fuels have changed massively over the last few years and most now contain around 130 ingredients and are classed as TOXIC
Aspen fuel only has 10 ingredients and is only harmful.
Aspen has no ethanol. (just google ethanol damage)
No Solvents, This is what damages the rubber parts and causes pump fuel to evaporate so fast.
Aspen will stay in your tank for longer, with no deposit build up in your fuel system.
I hope the above has helped and makes sense.
Kind regards
Eddie
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25 January 2014, 10:09
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
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Thanks Eddie.
Apart from having no idea what 'Aspen' fuel is.
I still don't necessarily think its a problem like people say. More like the fuel companies trying to make people panic buy!
I have petrol strimners, mowers, chainsaws, cement mixer, concrete breaker etc etc.
Never drain them down of fuel and sometimes they sit for months or years.
Always start up ok.
(Mind you they probably won't now! ) :-)
However maybe the problem is coming back as they 'water down' the fuel with this bio stuff.
That doesn't do engines too much good either.
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25 January 2014, 10:27
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
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[QUOTE="paddlers;576799"]Simplest way for me is to put the outboard in a tank of freshwater . Run it until warm then disconnect the fuel line at the engine & let it tickover until it dies. I then assume the carbs are pretty empty.
In my opinion. Never disconnected the fuel line and leave a 2 stroke running!
Once the fuel supply is gone, the oil is gone causing excess wear and damage inside the engine.
It might only be for a few seconds but it will harm the engine each time!
There are drains on the carbs if you insist on draining it out!
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