P22 Oil Pressure

Leroy · 17 March 2005, 18:14

Hi, Took my Pacific to sea for the first time today and noticed that the oil pressure was at about 5 to 5.5 Bar (6 bar is full scale!) is this excessive?

The engine was quite warm about 60 deg C and RPM say 2200, Just thought I would ask before I start checking instruments etc..
Cheers,

Pete7 · 17 March 2005, 18:22

Leroy yes its over the top, from memory its 4-5 bar but I can't check until tomorrow as the manual is on me desk. Had the same problem this time last year and a series of oil leaks just got worse over the year. Engine had to come out to replace the rear crank shaft oil seal. After this and an oil change, pressure is back to 4 bar. Not sure of the cure but an oil change with new filter would be high on my list of priorities.

Temp looks okay mine runs at 70 under load dropping slightly after a while at tick over.

RPM is a little low do you know what size prop you have on her ? also the condition of the contacts on the rev counter pick up under the fuel filters can alter the rev counter reading. Might be worth giving them a clean but they are not easy to reach.

Pete

Leroy · 17 March 2005, 18:43

Thanks Pete,
I plan to go out again tomorrow so I shall put a mechanical gauge straight on the block, If that reads high then I will do an oil and filter change, I didnt go to full throttle as the oil pressure really put me off!!

I am not sure of my prop size actually, I think its a 19", but thats the least of my worries at the moment

Neville · 17 March 2005, 20:00

Leroy, the oil pressure in your boat used to start off quite high and then drop as the engine warmed up. The oil pressure was spot on but that was how i remember it over a year ago.

The prop that was on the boat when i dropped it off to you was a 16 3/4 diameter x 21 pitch. The leg will actually take a 19" prop as it is a 113 lower half. If you put a 19" prop on you will probably have to change the spinner nut for a plain nut.

As I remember, the previous owner that you did the deal with overfilled the thing with oil on occasion so it may be worth checking the level first!

Leroy · 17 March 2005, 20:55

Thanks Neville,
I will give it another go tomorrow and let it warm up thoroughly before checking with another gauge.
The oil level was normal but I will check that again to make sure!

Neville · 17 March 2005, 21:57

Leroy, it might be an idea to change the oil sometime, and the filters all as part of a service. Also as you will know oils vary in viscocity and if an incorrect grade is used that can adjust the pressure slightly.

Pete7 · 18 March 2005, 08:54

The Halmatic manual says "A series 3 oil must be used with a turbocharged engine to ensure maximum engine life" It also gives a range of 2.7 - 4.1 bar for oil pressure.

I know I used 15/40 last year and Ian has recently pointed out to me that the manual says use Rimula 30 which I take to be an SAE 30 grade oil, unless anyone knows better.

Pete

Scary Des · 18 March 2005, 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete7

The Halmatic manual says "A series 3 oil must be used with a turbocharged engine to ensure maximum engine life" It also gives a range of 2.7 - 4.1 bar for oil pressure.

I know I used 15/40 last year and Ian has recently pointed out to me that the manual says use Rimula 30 which I take to be an SAE 30 grade oil, unless anyone knows better.

Pete

Pete
SAE 30 is a single grade oil which is old technology, all modern multi grades exceed Series 3. You need something between SAE 15W/40 to 20W/50, look for a API SF/CD sec oil. What you used last year is probably fine.

Back on thread oil is hydroscopic and if left unused for any period of time will get very ‘wet’. So I change my oil every six months without fail, it is so much cheaper than the consequences. Des

Pete7 · 18 March 2005, 12:04

Des,

Thanks, thats cleared up one worry, 15/40 TD oil it is then.

Pete

Leroy · 18 March 2005, 20:29

Thanks for your help guys,
Decided to change the oil and filter first thing, the oil was no problem used a BP turbo diesel engine oil 15/40 viscosity.
The filter though thats another story, could not get it off, in the end I had to remove the whole casting from the block and get it off in a vice with stillsons!!
It was worth it though as the oil pressure when warm is around the 4 bar mark but still nearly 5 bar when cold, but I can live with that.
When I eventually got on the water and opened her out the revs top out at 2100 which was about 26kts with 2 pob, but no excess smoke so I will probably check throttle positions, fuel pump settings before anything else.

On my return another problem developed! The stern drive wouldnt trim all the way up? On looking at the pump I discovered the motor and reservoir had almost detached itself from the pump body and lost all its fluid into my newly cleaned bilge in the process! (I had spent hours cleaning them after I managed to get hydraulic oil everwhere when overhauling one of the rams)
So I have spent the rest of the Afternoon removing/repairing and replacing the trim pump.
I hope not all my trips to sea are this involved but I suppose its better to get these problems out of the way before summer

Pete7 · 18 March 2005, 20:35

don't think any of us has a dry clean bilge, still it was re-assuring to see a two year old Ribtec inboard with more oil than mine last year.

Recon you rev counter is out, since the speed is about right.

Pete

Leroy · 18 March 2005, 20:47

Thanks Pete,
I didnt expect the bilges to stay clean for long, but a bit longer than they have! I only cleaned them because it was my new toy and I was feeling all keen!

I could borrow a hand held tacho and check the RPM I suppose, then again if its working leave it alone!!

Pete7 · 18 March 2005, 20:57

Yep, mine doesn't read properly either, did quite like the look of one of these, but can never remember to take me micrometer down to the boat to find out what size the injector pipes are.

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/diesel.php

Pete

Neville · 18 March 2005, 22:08

i did tell you i thought that the mounting looked dodgy!

i would check with a tacho aswell. if it is out a bit, try replacing that pressure maintaining valve on the side of fuel pump that i pointed out to you. i remember having problems bleeding it with high air pressure in the pump and that was about a year ago. that would drop the w.o.t. down a bit.

Paul F · 18 March 2005, 22:32

Hi All
Just a quick update whilst we are on the pac subject, managed to cut the hole out for the fwd hatch without cutting into the cross bearer, couldnt believe the amount of space in there,being a short a*** managed to get in there and clean it all out. Just sorting a minor snag with the fuel supply and about to fit the second set of batteries. Hope to go for a blast next week end. Where are you all stowing your liferafts.
Will give speed and RPM etc. when tacho sorted.
Paul

Pete7 · 19 March 2005, 06:34

Liferaft on board a bloody great tug at the moment

but Ian and I are using the A frame to store the raft out of the way. If you don't need the space up the very front perhaps a small divers bottle rack would make a frame to hold on to whilst working up the sharp end and secure the raft to as an alternative ?

Pete

Seb · 19 March 2005, 09:53

If you've got a Blue Line model VDO tacho on the P22, it may just be set incorrectly. On the rear of it there is a small plastic slot head scew (if i remember correctly) and turning this one way or another will adjust the reading of the needle.

So, if you test the RPM with a seperate device at the engine, you can then calibrate the actual gauge to read correctly.

If its out then, its the engine that needs 'fiddling' with.

Cheers