Priming my engine!!!!

[howard6212]

When pumping the fuel through to my engine to prime it. Does the air intake need to be closed. Because when I leave it open the prime ball doesn't seem to firm up?????

[jwalker]

It should be open. Could it be clogged? Remove the tank cap and try again. Are you turning the vent screw in the right direction? Anti-clockwise for opening - normally.

[Erin]

You've got the fuel line on the right way I presume. The arrow on the primer points towards the engine does it?

[howard6212]

Thanks, the valve is open. I've even taken the cap off. I think I might be sucking in air somewhere, maybe at the bayonet fuel line fitting on the tank????

[jyasaki]

Just re-read you message. Your ball doesn't firm up with the fuel vent open? But it does with it closed? That's kind of odd. I'll explain that as I ramble.

The firmness you should be feeling comes from the ball pumping fuel to the remaining fuel line and the engine. Being a one-way valve, once pressurised (only slightly) the ball holds that pressure, and you get a firm primer bulb.

If the ball never firms up (with the vent open - the fuel you draw from the fuel tank has to replaced by something) , there are a few possibilities:

1) Fuel bulb check valve is not working, so fuel pumps to motor, and runs back to the tank.

2) Leak in the post-bulb fuel line. Should be pretty obvious, as when you pump the ball, you should see or at least smell the fuel as it pours out.

3) Completely bad pumping mechanism in the bulb. You aren't pumping anything anywhere.


You said yours firms up when the fuel vent is closed. So, assuming everything else is working OK, the fuel tank pulling a slight vacuum is causing the bulb firmness. That, to me, seems backwards. It's odd, because I would have expected the ball to simply stay collapsed.


4) Never mind; got it. Your primer bulb is installed backwards. You're poumping fuel into the tank, rather than from the tank into the motor. Close the vent, and the tank pressurizes, causing the firm bulb.

Turn the primer ball around on the line, and I think you'll be good to go.

Luck;

jky


Geez; maybe I should have read Erin's message first. Would've saved some typing.

[howard6212]

OK Thanks.Will look at fuel pump direction tomorrow. U guys are ace thanks a million!

[howard6212]

Just had a look at the bayonet fitting connecting the fuel line to the tank. I can't see any O rings or any rubber seal. Is the seal inside the L connector on the tank?

[jyasaki]

You should have either something like a quick-release fitting (like on a mechanic's pneumatic air wrench), or a two-pin connector.

If the former, there is an O-ring that sits in a groove in the outer part of the hose connector (seals against the outer part of the tank connector.)

If the two-pin job, one will probably be a simple locator pin (i.e. just a stainless rod), the other will have what looks like a bit of wire sticking out. The wire is the check valve for a dry(ish) break arrangement; the mating side of that should have an O-ring that seals around the pin that contains that wire.

In either case, getting the O-ring out to inspect it usually damages it; it's better to simply install the thing and check for leaks. If there's some reason to suspect a problem, relace it (they're not that expensive.)

One bit of advice, though: try to avoid Tempo brand replacement parts - I've had really bad experiences with almost everything I've bought that was made by them.

jky

[howard6212]

Thanks I'll check. I have both typres. The 2 pin on the engine side and the welders thing on the tank side!!!!!!!!!