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Old 01 December 2023, 00:34   #21
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I found the plate on the turbo and scraped the paint off it, there is some writing but it's very faint. I think it's a K26 and when I googled that it comes up with something that looks the same. Same turbo as a Volvo TAMD41 which would be quite a bit bigger than an old 2.5 Transit engine!
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Old 01 December 2023, 08:05   #22
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Yeah, but I can also find K26 turbos specified for 2.2 litre audi engines. K26 specifies the basic size, but there's variations within. For the time being let's see how you get on with props - even if you eventually popped a different turbo on it, the laser 2 is a good all rounder and diesels invariably like a bit of slip low down to help them get on boost and minimise turbo lag.

Some of the volvos (KAD32, for example) run both a supercharger and a turbo - supercharger to get the thing on boost low down, and the supercharger then disengages once the turbo picks up. On bigger, heavier boats on shaft drives, they really labour down low otherwise:
https://fybmarine.shop/volvo-penta-k...nd-spare-parts

Just for interest sake, post some pics of the boat, engine etc. Be nice to see what it is we're talking about.
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Old 01 December 2023, 09:09   #23
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Humber 7m ocean extreme. Started life with a factory fitted mercruiser 1.7. I'm sure you'll have heard the stories about them lol.
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Old 01 December 2023, 09:12   #24
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I've seen offshore fish farms before - first time I've seen offshore sheep farming. Are they good swimmers?
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Old 01 December 2023, 13:20   #25
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No. That's why they're in a boat lol
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Old 01 December 2023, 14:09   #26
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I had this boat advertised for sale a couple of months ago, it will still be on Facebook marketplace, there's a video of it running if you want a look at it. Search Humber diesel rib it should still come up
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Old 02 December 2023, 12:52   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkney1 View Post
I had this boat advertised for sale a couple of months ago, it will still be on Facebook marketplace, there's a video of it running if you want a look at it. Search Humber diesel rib it should still come up
To be honest Ive seen many ex vehicle engines converted & the results are rarely good even up to the 6.5l gm v8 they rarely end well. Usually ends up with a frustrated owner who's spent a fortune & spends more time arse up in an engine bay full of oil & coolant. Only ones that seem to hit reliability are the plodders in displacement boats where the required power output is way below the vehicle's power.
Yours seems to be a fueling issue, if it was turbo lag youd have black reek while spooling up, when manufacturers modify engines for marine (6lp yamaha etc) they alter the fuel system to suit the application. Injectors & pump are completely different set up without specialist equipment & access to a dyno the chances of getting it running 100%right are prety slim, will always be a compromise.
Whilst the 1.7 merc isnt a great engine, it does go well & is reasonably cheap to replace or overhaul & is specifically set up for marine use, if you still have it & the marinising gear replacing it may be your best option.
Sorry to pour cold water on your plans but seen many folk go down this route & spend a lot of time & money for mediocre results
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Old 02 December 2023, 16:23   #28
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Certainly that's a fair comment - proper marinisation is tricky to get just right and carries some complexities & cost to do it properly.

But the old 6.5 diesels, for example, did marinise well as evidenced here in Leviathan - it would run 70mph all day long. DIY marinisation by the owner.

I guess in Mr Orkney1 1's case - it's already done, so it's a question of seeing if we can help him make it work a bit better.
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Old 02 December 2023, 20:34   #29
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Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
To be honest Ive seen many ex vehicle engines converted & the results are rarely good even up to the 6.5l gm v8 they rarely end well. Usually ends up with a frustrated owner who's spent a fortune & spends more time arse up in an engine bay full of oil & coolant. Only ones that seem to hit reliability are the plodders in displacement boats where the required power output is way below the vehicle's power.
Yours seems to be a fueling issue, if it was turbo lag youd have black reek while spooling up, when manufacturers modify engines for marine (6lp yamaha etc) they alter the fuel system to suit the application. Injectors & pump are completely different set up without specialist equipment & access to a dyno the chances of getting it running 100%right are prety slim, will always be a compromise.
Whilst the 1.7 merc isnt a great engine, it does go well & is reasonably cheap to replace or overhaul & is specifically set up for marine use, if you still have it & the marinising gear replacing it may be your best option.
Sorry to pour cold water on your plans but seen many folk go down this route & spend a lot of time & money for mediocre results
That's exactly what the 1.7 Merc is. It's a small car engine that accountants decided could be used in a boat. Yes it's cheap to run, most parts are interchangeable between the automotive engines. Yes I still have it but I don't plan on re fitting it. Here's a quick summary of all the problems I've encountered with that engine.

Turbo is prone to failure, not the same as the car engine expensive to replace. £1500 from mercruiser, £900 from turbo supplier if they can find one, it is not a common turbo.

Alloy head on cast iron block. It won't stand much over heating before head gasket let's go.

Intercooler and heat exchanger are poorly designed - lots of aluminium which corrodes in no time. Ridiculously expensive to replace.

The starter motor and alternator are in the bilge making them awkward to replace. Especially the starter... And you will be replacing them like pairs of socks!

There is the well known holes in pistons scenario but this can be avoided if turbo wastegate is kept working. Bin the stupid exhaust blanket and weld a stainless nut to the end of the wastegate arm so you can put a screwdriver through it and move it back and fore every so often. We blew pistons before knowing about this.

The little M8 exhaust manifold bolts will be seized in the head when you go to take the heat exchanger off. You have to drill them out tap them to 3/8unc and go stainless like it should been to start with.

If the timing belt let's go which it probably will the head will be scrap along with the cams (the lobes are pressed on and the knock will move them). If you're unlucky like me you'll crack a piston too.

Mercruiser in their wisdom have made sure absolutely no stainless steel fasteners have been used in the building of this engine. Hose clips will rust away and cap head screws and bolts will give you endless enjoyment trying to undo them when they're tiny little lumps of rust.

The engine is generally a horrible little turd of a thing to work on while it's in the boat. Everything is crammed together and you often end up taking a lot of stuff off just to get to the part you want to work on.


The ford 2.5 while maybe not the best engine out there for power to weight ratio or smoothness and quietness. certainly has a few advantages over the Isuzu 1.7

It's a slower turning, more industrial type engine. It would have been designed to operate for longer periods under full load. 2.5l 140hp at 3850rpm vs 1.7l 120hp at 4800rpm

Cast iron cylinder head and block should take a lot of abuse before letting go .

The starter and alternator are on the top, above deck level so unlikely to suffer from water damage even with the bilge flooded.

It's very easy to work on old fashioned push rod type of engine. Heat exchanger, intercooler, turbo, cylinder head, starter, alternator are all easy to remove and fit with the engine is still in the boat.

It has a proper water cooled marine turbo that should last much longer than that of the 1.7's dry turbo.

Push rod engine, if the timing belt goes it will only bend a few pushrods. Whip the rocker shaft out, new rods, time it up, throw belt on, bolt rocker down. Going again in 30mins. Could even do it at sea if you carry a spare belt and set of pushrods. The 1.7 would be game over.

Heat exchanger and intercooler are simple Bowman units salt water is never in contact with any aluminium parts. If needed, new tube stacks can be bought from Bowman for a fraction of the cost of the mercruiser equivalents.

Whoever marinised this engine has been very particular about it. All stainless steel fasteners and hose clamps, stainless manifold bolts, stainless cap head screws for the rocker cover etc. A much better job than mercruiser with their 1.7!

I already have the same performance as the 1.7, it also suffered pretty bad turbo lag but I'm just trying to get it 100% bang on. I reckon if I can get the lag issue sorted I can prop for a higher top speed. I should have an extra 20hp although she'll be about 100kg heavier.
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Old 02 December 2023, 20:36   #30
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When does the laser 2 arrive?
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Old 02 December 2023, 20:48   #31
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Arrived today. I'll let you know once I get a chance to try it!
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Old 02 December 2023, 20:50   #32
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I hope it’s a significant improvement
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Old 03 December 2023, 19:08   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orkney1 View Post
That's exactly what the 1.7 Merc is. It's a small car engine that accountants decided could be used in a boat. Yes it's cheap to run, most parts are interchangeable between the automotive engines. Yes I still have it but I don't plan on re fitting it. Here's a quick summary of all the problems I've encountered with that engine.

Turbo is prone to failure, not the same as the car engine expensive to replace. £1500 from mercruiser, £900 from turbo supplier if they can find one, it is not a common turbo.

Alloy head on cast iron block. It won't stand much over heating before head gasket let's go.

Intercooler and heat exchanger are poorly designed - lots of aluminium which corrodes in no time. Ridiculously expensive to replace.

The starter motor and alternator are in the bilge making them awkward to replace. Especially the starter... And you will be replacing them like pairs of socks!

There is the well known holes in pistons scenario but this can be avoided if turbo wastegate is kept working. Bin the stupid exhaust blanket and weld a stainless nut to the end of the wastegate arm so you can put a screwdriver through it and move it back and fore every so often. We blew pistons before knowing about this.

The little M8 exhaust manifold bolts will be seized in the head when you go to take the heat exchanger off. You have to drill them out tap them to 3/8unc and go stainless like it should been to start with.

If the timing belt let's go which it probably will the head will be scrap along with the cams (the lobes are pressed on and the knock will move them). If you're unlucky like me you'll crack a piston too.

Mercruiser in their wisdom have made sure absolutely no stainless steel fasteners have been used in the building of this engine. Hose clips will rust away and cap head screws and bolts will give you endless enjoyment trying to undo them when they're tiny little lumps of rust.

The engine is generally a horrible little turd of a thing to work on while it's in the boat. Everything is crammed together and you often end up taking a lot of stuff off just to get to the part you want to work on.


The ford 2.5 while maybe not the best engine out there for power to weight ratio or smoothness and quietness. certainly has a few advantages over the Isuzu 1.7

It's a slower turning, more industrial type engine. It would have been designed to operate for longer periods under full load. 2.5l 140hp at 3850rpm vs 1.7l 120hp at 4800rpm

Cast iron cylinder head and block should take a lot of abuse before letting go .

The starter and alternator are on the top, above deck level so unlikely to suffer from water damage even with the bilge flooded.

It's very easy to work on old fashioned push rod type of engine. Heat exchanger, intercooler, turbo, cylinder head, starter, alternator are all easy to remove and fit with the engine is still in the boat.

It has a proper water cooled marine turbo that should last much longer than that of the 1.7's dry turbo.

Push rod engine, if the timing belt goes it will only bend a few pushrods. Whip the rocker shaft out, new rods, time it up, throw belt on, bolt rocker down. Going again in 30mins. Could even do it at sea if you carry a spare belt and set of pushrods. The 1.7 would be game over.

Heat exchanger and intercooler are simple Bowman units salt water is never in contact with any aluminium parts. If needed, new tube stacks can be bought from Bowman for a fraction of the cost of the mercruiser equivalents.

Whoever marinised this engine has been very particular about it. All stainless steel fasteners and hose clamps, stainless manifold bolts, stainless cap head screws for the rocker cover etc. A much better job than mercruiser with their 1.7!

I already have the same performance as the 1.7, it also suffered pretty bad turbo lag but I'm just trying to get it 100% bang on. I reckon if I can get the lag issue sorted I can prop for a higher top speed. I should have an extra 20hp although she'll be about 100kg heavier.
To get the lag sorted your probably going to need to alter fueling significantly & replace the turbo, volvo use that turbo on their 3.6l engines but mercruiser run smaller k24 turbos on their 2.8 3.0 & 3.6l engines the k26 isnt utilised untill you get to the 4.2 engines. Your 2.5 probably doesnt have the required airflow to build pressure untill the rpm is up. The pump on your engine will be configured to deliver good economy at a steady 1800-2200rpm which would equate to a reasonable cruise speed in top gear. If you need power to accelerate you drop a gear & rev it a bit harder. With a boat engine you need to be shoveling the coal on & boosting at low rpm, 1800ish to get the torque needed to spin the prop.
If it was a common rail engine you could alter the maping but a mechanical engine is probably going to need pump surgery & possibly injectors altered.
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Old 03 December 2023, 21:41   #34
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While I was rebuilding the engine I had the pump off to someone who knows about pumps and he's changed the cam plate and some other things (I don't know that much about the internals of injector pumps). It performed significantly better after this but. Stanadyne did produce 130hp marine injectors for these engines but they are like hens teeth to find a set. My fuel pump man said these would help a fair bit if you can find them but they stopped making them years ago. He said he's known them to be fitted to vans back in the day by people looking for a few more. I have 100hp injectors at the moment which can still be bought off the shelf. The old ones I took out were the 80hp ones. I've fiddled with the main fuel screw. Turned up a bit more she'll give 18psi on boost but it doesn't make much difference to where boost comes in. Also it increases the idle speed so much that the drive is almost impossible to select neutral with the engine running and that's with the idle stop backed right out. I baked it off again to get 15psi boost and keep the idle down to where gear selection is workable. I reckon your right, she's trying to spin a turbo that's a bit too big. Not sure if the internals of the turbo could be changed for something that's more of a correct match for the engine?
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Old 04 December 2023, 18:10   #35
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Originally Posted by Orkney1 View Post
While I was rebuilding the engine I had the pump off to someone who knows about pumps and he's changed the cam plate and some other things (I don't know that much about the internals of injector pumps). It performed significantly better after this but. Stanadyne did produce 130hp marine injectors for these engines but they are like hens teeth to find a set. My fuel pump man said these would help a fair bit if you can find them but they stopped making them years ago. He said he's known them to be fitted to vans back in the day by people looking for a few more. I have 100hp injectors at the moment which can still be bought off the shelf. The old ones I took out were the 80hp ones. I've fiddled with the main fuel screw. Turned up a bit more she'll give 18psi on boost but it doesn't make much difference to where boost comes in. Also it increases the idle speed so much that the drive is almost impossible to select neutral with the engine running and that's with the idle stop backed right out. I baked it off again to get 15psi boost and keep the idle down to where gear selection is workable. I reckon your right, she's trying to spin a turbo that's a bit too big. Not sure if the internals of the turbo could be changed for something that's more of a correct match for the engine?
You obviously already know the answers to your problems fueling is restricted & turbo needs more airflow than the engine can provide to get it on boost sooner. Theres no easy fix with the turbo other than replacing it, the housings dictate the size of turbine & compressor wheel. Maybe worth speaking to a turbo specialist whos into modifying (hybrid) turbos & see if they can come up with an answer. A k24 might work but I'd take specialist advice before buying one as it may still be too big
Unfortunately no cheap option
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Old 05 December 2023, 17:46   #36
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Yea I kinda figured that there's not much I can do to improve low end boost, that's why I wondered if a prop change could help. I'll try running the vented prop and see if it helps, hopefully it will. It's like it could do 2 gears! Low speed for better acceleration onto the plane and for rough conditions. Then a high speed that you engage once on the plane. Could probably push another 5 or 6 knots out of it then
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Old 05 December 2023, 20:03   #37
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Yeah, prop choice can't fix a lack of boost, it can just slip a bit more until the motor comes on boost. Well known technique back in the day on old diesel race boats - and one of them today still runs non wastegated turbos and relies on a bit of prop slip and patience to get up and running. Goes well once it's up and going though.

You could perhaps do propane injection - but I know nothing about that other than the theory. And it'd be better just to switch to a correctly sized turbo. I recommend this book for all things turbo related : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maximum-Boo.../dp/0837601606

Let us know the results of testing the laser 2 prop.
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Old 06 December 2023, 17:08   #38
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Yeah, prop choice can't fix a lack of boost, it can just slip a bit more until the motor comes on boost. Well known technique back in the day on old diesel race boats - and one of them today still runs non wastegated turbos and relies on a bit of prop slip and patience to get up and running. Goes well once it's up and going though.

You could perhaps do propane injection - but I know nothing about that other than the theory. And it'd be better just to switch to a correctly sized turbo. I recommend this book for all things turbo related : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maximum-Boo.../dp/0837601606

Let us know the results of testing the laser 2 prop.
I did some work on scorpion sting hot lemon V when it was bought by Darren Mellish up on the west coast . It had an air bleed system onto the props via a system of ducts & control flaps to feed air to the props at take off. It did get going & didn't suffer the same turbo lag 6lp's are known for on fast sports boats but in all honesty it still wasnt a missile out of the hole. A little scary flat out through Cuan sound at dusk with your 14yo daughter at the helm though.
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Old 06 December 2023, 17:12   #39
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Hot Lemon was a pretty good race boat, remember it well.
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Old 06 December 2023, 21:00   #40
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Hot Lemon was a pretty good race boat, remember it well.
It was well loved before Darren got it when it was round Britain record holder, he didn't realy put the time into it it required. Did ctc a few times and was one of the 3? Boats that did the london to monte carlo "cruise" that was supposed to be a race but got cancelled last minute & a few crews decided to do it as a cruise. Not sure what happened after that been a few years since I heard from him. The race scene will never be what it was a few years ago.
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