Quick release from fuel filter

[A1an]

I have a quicksilver filter/water separator on the transom, what I want to do is put a quick release connection on it so I can just swap tanks with the minimum of fuss.

Has anyone done this or have any ideas?

[RIB-Teccie]

I attached a small hose to the brass connector and the standard yammie fitting to the end of it.

[A1an]

The thing is, one of my tanks is the below deck tank (hoping it holds fuel) so I want to swap between it and remote ones.

[RIB-Teccie]

There must be a fuel line entering the filter from the under deck tank. You should be able to fit a male coupler to it and have the female attached to the filter. I am thinking if the quicksilver type. If there is not room you could use the yammie or Suzuki type which are smaller.

[willk]

A three way brass fuel switch with a trailing hose for the portable tank works well and is VERY quick to swap supplies on.

[neil.mccrirrick]

Yup that's how I'm set up really easy to do

[steve-ribnet]

Like this? ( single engine, single main built in tank, 22l reserve plastic can, excuse the dirt)
Fuel enters from photo left into brass barb. Post filter goes to primer bulb and engine quick release as usual. Similar fuel connector on reserve tank so the reserve tank contents goes through filter. If all connectors are the same (main tank,reserve tank,engine) then you can even bypass the filter If this is ever suspected of being an issue

If I had 2 built in tanks I'd do it differently

[steve-ribnet]

Also having the 'flying lead' on the reserve tank means you carry spare primer bulb, QR fitting and hoses

[Trevor G]

Originally Posted by steve-ribnet

Like this? ( single engine, single main built in tank, 22l reserve plastic can, excuse the dirt)
Fuel enters from photo left into brass barb. Post filter goes to primer bulb and engine quick release as usual. Similar fuel connector on reserve tank so the reserve tank contents goes through filter. If all connectors are the same (main tank,reserve tank,engine) then you can even bypass the filter If this is ever suspected of being an issue

If I had 2 built in tanks I'd do it differently


Attachment 93343

Just as a word of warning though - I had exactly the same set-up as Steve, but I found that in really rough conditions the connector on the fuel filter had a habit of working loose, allowing air to be drawn into the engine. Once I knew this was a problem at least I knew I just had to wiggle the connector back on - but the first time it took a while to work out as the connections looked OK - and we had a Red Jet bearing down in us at 40kts!

[A1an]

Thanks for the ideas gents.

[steve-ribnet]

Eek! Not had that problem before. The design of the mercury QR fuel plugs - and the yam ones from memory- is that they positively clip in place with an indent in the barb that the metal lever mates with to prevent it working loose. The retaining spring force is pretty high - couldn't see how it would work loose or jump out unless the connector lock ring was plastic and worn, or lever was worn... I chose a solid brass connector on the filter for this reason

I recall using a cheap aftermarket connector on a portable fuel tank that suffered poor mating (I'm sure we all suffer from poor mating at one time or other ;-) )...it leaked if you wiggled it. not wishing to question the quality of your connectors of course Trevor!

The weakness I have with this design of filter bowl is the plastic water drain valve on the bottom (protected a little here with some poly pipe). I have diving weights and related paraphernalia washing around on deck all ready to snap the bottom off it. Time for a small protective cage methinks

[Trevor G]

Originally Posted by steve-ribnet

Eek! Not had that problem before. The design of the mercury QR fuel plugs - and the yam ones from memory- is that they positively clip in place with an indent in the barb that the metal lever mates with to prevent it working loose. The retaining spring force is pretty high - couldn't see how it would work loose or jump out unless the connector lock ring was plastic and worn, or lever was worn... I chose a solid brass connector on the filter for this reason

I recall using a cheap aftermarket connector on a portable fuel tank that suffered poor mating (I'm sure we all suffer from poor mating at one time or other ;-) )...it leaked if you wiggled it. not wishing to question the quality of your connectors of course Trevor!

I thought the same as you - that the metal spring clip should prevent it working loose. I used the same brass fittings that you have on your filter (are you sure that's your photo and not one of my old setup?)
Anyway - Back to A1an's original question...
What I ended up doing was to have a brass fuel pipe T before the filter - with two hoses going to the fuel tanks and in-line fuel taps in each hose so we could select which tank to use (or have both turned on).
With 4 fuel bladders around the boat and two plastic tanks under the seat it meant we could always have two tanks connected at a time and still swap them on the go.
Trev

[MikeH]

I have same set up but the barb connector feeds the spare engine (one fuel tank- 2 engines. Also thought the connectors would be positively locked on but they work loose so mine are cable tied on around the connector.

[willk]

A1an, I used my set up on a pair of twin 90s for a few seasons. It's a good rig and isn't expensive. You have a "clean" run to the main with little chance of a failure or air ingress, and also the option to switch to a deck tank with no unclipping. It can actually be done "on the fly"...

...although you'd need new crew though - the one from Easdale....

[willk]

Oh look, I have a photo

[A1an]

Looks a good setup, going to try and rig something similar.

I only have 1 filter.