Raising outboard height on transom

[Synchro_Ring]

HI all, as title says, how do you raise the height of the outboard on the transom, this happens to me, the Water spray is coming over the back of the transom like the video and i was wondering if the outboard has to go higher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNWo_qDpNqo

The outboard i have sits 2 inch lower than the bottom of the transom on my mariner 25 2T outboard, the shaft seems to measure 17 inch,



my outboard sits like picture one shows and has the effect of the video when speed is raised, what do i need to do?

Anybody have any pictures of what they did?

Regards

[beamishken]

You should be able to move the engine up the transom via the holes in the motor or if its clamps only sit a piece of wood on the top of the transom the thickness you want to raise the engine by as you clamp on. Just make sure the clamps have enough meat to get a good grip, idealy have the cavitation plate above the line of the keel i usually start about 1" up
It seems to be mariner & yam 2 strokes were slightly over long, the longshaft measures 22" and the short as you've found about 17".
Usually once the engine is lifted the splashing issue goes away as the cav plate ducts the water away rather than it spraying up the leg

[Fenlander]

Synchro did you experience this on the Aerotec that failed... a recent new SIB... or another boat completely?

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by beamishken

You should be able to move the engine up the transom via the holes in the motor or if its clamps only sit a piece of wood on the top of the transom the thickness you want to raise the engine by as you clamp on. Just make sure the clamps have enough meat to get a good grip, idealy have the cavitation plate above the line of the keel i usually start about 1" up
It seems to be mariner & yam 2 strokes were slightly over long, the longshaft measures 22" and the short as you've found about 17".
Usually once the engine is lifted the splashing issue goes away as the cav plate ducts the water away rather than it spraying up the leg

Hi all

I have a 17 inch leg and was told it is ex MLI

[Synchro_Ring]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Synchro did you experience this on the Aerotec that failed... a recent new SIB... or another boat completely?

This was on the Aerotec that failed my friend, i am just looking to gain as much information as possible, so i can make sure everything is done just right, to prolong the life of my Honwave.


regards

[Fenlander]

Ahh OK a very common issue fairly specific to the Aerotec.

Just use the Honwave as supplied and it could well be OK.

[Synchro_Ring]

Originally Posted by dave3235

Hi all

I have a 17 inch leg and was told it is ex MLI

I got my mariner 25 from an RYA instructor, who said he got it from SBS surplus, check out the pictures, the holes where drilled into the case for the external control setup, the guy i got it from had converted it to tiller himself and plugged the holes with tight rubber bungs, the shaft is longer than stock 15 inch its more 17.5 and sure when you open the power the water rushes over the transom.

I may be wrong as im a new to boating, but i am skilled at gearbox rebuilds hence my name


The serial number of the engine is up there if anybody might be able to date the unit

Also what is the anodized red part for in the middle picture?




Regards

[Synchro_Ring]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Ahh OK a very common issue fairly specific to the Aerotec.

Just use the Honwave as supplied and it could well be OK.

I will for sure test the Boat when it arrives, i paid 999 for the t38 from Gillingham Marina ( there RRP price) and i didnt fancy the whole extended transom wheel idea at all or drilling the transom at all so i ended up buying a launching trolley, was 77 on ebay.

i will make a good post of my setup when its all arrived in a new thread, to help others out



Regards

[Synchro_Ring]

Originally Posted by beamishken

You should be able to move the engine up the transom via the holes in the motor or if its clamps only sit a piece of wood on the top of the transom the thickness you want to raise the engine by as you clamp on. Just make sure the clamps have enough meat to get a good grip, idealy have the cavitation plate above the line of the keel i usually start about 1" up
It seems to be mariner & yam 2 strokes were slightly over long, the longshaft measures 22" and the short as you've found about 17".
Usually once the engine is lifted the splashing issue goes away as the cav plate ducts the water away rather than it spraying up the leg

Thank you ever so much i will try run the outboard on the Honwave stock placement first and then raise the outboard as you describe.




I will test everything and report back once my T38 arrives and i have given everything a good run over.





Thank you ever so much for helping me out. A great forum for newbies like myself.




Regards

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by dave3235

Hi all

I have a 17 inch leg and was told it is ex MLI

The rnli did have some specials supplied from mercury/ mariner at 17.5" but the earlier yam/ mariner 2 cylinder 2 stroke 40's and maybe 25's were long from stock at about 22" or 17" no idea why this was the case but they were longer than a standard engine

[pagick]

I fixed my waterfall with foam glued under the tilt tube. But my gap was only 15mm. The foam was actually neoprene rubber.

[boater]

Got mine on a manual jack plate , my merc 50 has a long water pickup , so got engine nice and high so cav plate is inch or so higher than bottom of transom

[Synchro_Ring]

Originally Posted by boater

Got mine on a manual jack plate , my merc 50 has a long water pickup , so got engine nice and high so cav plate is inch or so higher than bottom of transom

Thank you i will look into a manual jack plate, for long term use



Regards