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13 July 2015, 20:03
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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Removing Lower Leg Yamaha F100A
My understanding is that there's 5 bolts (one hiding behind the anode). Surely there is somewhere I should be disconnecting the gear linkage too? Where is this hidden? I can see the rod itself but no obvious exterior way of disconnecting. It's my second lower leg removal. Can anybody give some advice on how to do it, tips or pointers. Thanks in advance.
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13 July 2015, 20:20
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Removing Lower Leg Yamaha F100A
Gear selector tube goes on to a splined male shaft sticking out the top of the gearbox. Just undo the bolts and wiggle the unit off, all will become clear.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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13 July 2015, 20:25
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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13 July 2015, 21:27
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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Simples! Keeping it in neutral? I assume it doesn't really matter as long as it all comes out and goes back as it was. Water pump housing and impeller straight forward enough?
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13 July 2015, 21:46
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Make: Ribeye 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 204
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That's a much better way of doing it than the wanky Evinrude etec way with screw under the Powerhead!
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14 July 2015, 05:43
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattacraft
Simples! Keeping it in neutral? I assume it doesn't really matter as long as it all comes out and goes back as it was. Water pump housing and impeller straight forward enough?
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Yep, keep it in neutral. Sometimes if the cable adjustment is out a little it can jump into gear when you drop the box, its easy enough to put it back in to neutral with a pair of mole grips.
If you manage to drop the unit you will manage the pump, child's play really.
Lightly grease the drive shaft splines before refitting.
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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14 July 2015, 08:42
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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I've done it all before on a smaller scale, should be straight forward enough. I just haven't managed much experience in all of my 22 years!
Thanks for the help, chaps 👍🏻
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14 July 2015, 10:49
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wormit
Boat name: lots of them
Make: various
Length: no boat
Engine: all types
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 632
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If its due an oil change dont be tempted to start the engine to heat up the oil without the gearbox fitted!
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14 July 2015, 12:52
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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Hah, I don't think there's much risk of me doing that. I'm doing everything on it. Plugs, filters, oil (engine and gearbox), water pump and a new prop. That of course is alongside new wheels, bearings, brakes and cables on the trailer. New speedo, GPS and Depth finder. Complete Rib Revive, condition and hull and deck polish.
.......and a new winch and complete set of ropes....and anchor....
Busy evenings this week, needs to be ready for Saturday mornings trip to Falmouth for the week!
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14 July 2015, 16:08
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Make: Ribeye 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattacraft
Hah, I don't think there's much risk of me doing that. I'm doing everything on it. Plugs, filters, oil (engine and gearbox), water pump and a new prop. That of course is alongside new wheels, bearings, brakes and cables on the trailer. New speedo, GPS and Depth finder. Complete Rib Revive, condition and hull and deck polish.
.......and a new winch and complete set of ropes....and anchor....
Busy evenings this week, needs to be ready for Saturday mornings trip to Falmouth for the week!
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Haha sounds pretty much like my schedule at the moment!
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14 July 2015, 19:39
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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It's hard to be a full time Riber and hold down a job at the same time!
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15 July 2015, 21:55
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Sea Warrior
Make: Flatacraft -fletcher
Length: 4m +
Engine: 3.0 Merc. 40HPMarine
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 27
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All done, it was super simples. Thanks chaps.
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