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Old 14 October 2013, 11:13   #21
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Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
Quote:
Originally Posted by longjohn View Post
Its the black bit in Peter's pic
The attached (differant pic) shows a yam box that wont work as the tiny bit of plastic has dropped ouf the back of the switch ...and yes the engine wont start at all from the key( don't ask me how I know this ....but at least while it was raining the boat was indoors ! )
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Old 14 October 2013, 12:32   #22
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Country: UK - England
Town: Exmouth - Devon
Make: Avon
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboard Mariner 60
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 50
Having seen the photo I'm going to make the decision to cut the cable and add a water proof plug coupler under the console.

Having said that I think I still need to get the throttle off the side of the console to get the handle off to replace the bottom cover! It took a bit of jigging to get out without damaging it with the handle in place and looking at the casting I don't think it would take much to snap it in half if I get a bit carried away!

Does anyone know the core diameter of that cable, presuming they are all the same, hopefully 1.5mm!
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Old 14 October 2013, 13:25   #23
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
The mechanics of those boxes are all made by the same people. (or for some reason nobody has thrown a lawsuit at the rest for copying it). I am qworking a merc engine form a Yam control box, which during my PT upgrade had a Tohatsu lever for a month or two, and before the 703 I was working the yam that came with the 703 with a Suz box.....

But yes, best bet is get it inside if you want to take the gubbins to bits.



Also ref. electrics I was so unimpressed with the insides of those boxes that all my electrics are now inisde the console, wioth a "jump lead" for the PT switch and the Anti start in gear microswitch.

(also means it really doesn't matter what you replace it with in the "oh sh*t" moment when you have knackered it & there's only a "something else dealer" within 200 miles.....)
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Old 14 October 2013, 13:34   #24
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Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,175
I like the idea of taking all the tangle of electrics out of the box . Had a wire rubbing this year that gave an intermittent fuse failure on the engine !!
Now where's my screwdriver...
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Old 14 October 2013, 14:03   #25
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Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Make: ribeye
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140 suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 341
On taking mine apart I broke the in gear micro-switch when putting it back together. It sort of gets sheared off just as you'll finally fitting back the main casing - and the last drop of rain manages to put your fag out and your cup of tea falls over into your socket set.

Anyway my point being, Maplins sell them all for a couple of quid. Low Cost Standard Microswitches : Micro Switches : Maplin Electronics

A good idea though to make wiring simpler by taking wiring outside casing. I'm thinking to put a simple waterproof toggle switch to operate tilt and trim on consul, as now having intermittent problems with switch in handle.
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Old 14 October 2013, 14:17   #26
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Country: UK - England
Town: Exmouth - Devon
Make: Avon
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboard Mariner 60
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 50
I'm glad to see everyone is as un impressed with the build quality of these units, being that they have a lot to put up with they really are crap. Good idea on moving the trim switch in my opinion. I've noticed the little two wire loom from the switch appears to be snagging in a few places, not helped by the fact it wasnt secured.
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