Repair advice

[ajstars]

Sod's law has hit again, just took our new RIB out (Honda 225) and struck a rock coming in to harbour. Engine bounced up and on inspection we have bent the propshaft slightly, bent the stainless prop, lost a good section of the fin and lost the nose cone that was fitted.
Can anyone recommend a place to get this fixed preferably near Brighton area please and any suggestions (apart from not hitting rocks)

Thanks

[ShinyShoe]

Did you know that the bottom of the gear box has been damaged previously? It certainly looks to me like that. You could in theory fill it again and paint but next time you dink a rock I suspect you will have the same problem. Some people say they've never dinked a rock others are able to swear to how good Steel Developments are at fixing props because they've done several for them!!

To fix it properly will need welding. Its probably not a major weld but it needs taken off the engine to do.

[ajstars]

I don't know what uglies the nose cone was hiding on it and don't know what damage could have been underneath previously. It did surprise me that it had a nose cone on it though and there is a lot of filler/resin which I assume was to build out the skeg to the height of the cone.
Being unfamiliar with nose cones though I don't know what it should look like.
We certainly did the fin though.
The other option is a replacement gear case at £1000 but again I don't know the history. I am told this engine has only done 75hrs.
Is the cost of welding going to be high?

[idsebby]

As far as I know it's not very pricy for the weld. You will pay much more to get a new shaft.
I would look for the whole leg off another motor. Sometimes you can get the prop and all.
I however would take it straight to a gearbox place and not a dealer they will just send it to a gearbox place and tack on their cut.
If you know someone who is a decent tig welder they could whip it out in a few mins. However replacing all the internals will be expensive especially if buying new parts I would look for a used one. Just looked into this process for a motor last week.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HVS6qfveLG4&autoplay=1

This is a good video of the process.

[spartacus]

Looks like toast.

More concerned about the crack, or what appears to be one developing near prop shaft.

If you can weld, then the rubber seals will be goosed with the heat, plus given this is a big HP engine, then the torque of the prop-shaft and drive shaft are going to throw up all sorts of issues unless it's properly set up with shims, balanced and load tested.

Looked on Ardoran Marine's site as they're Honda dealers, but only have a 115/130hp gearbox.

This sort of thing any use? Outboard Gear Case for 2008 Honda 225 with Propeller Lower Unit | eBay

Anything local with history, then my advice would be to go for it.

[idsebby]

Originally Posted by spartacus

Looks like toast.



More concerned about the crack, or what appears to be one developing near prop shaft.



If you can weld, then the rubber seals will be goosed with the heat, plus given this is a big HP engine, then the torque of the prop-shaft and drive shaft are going to throw up all sorts of issues unless it's properly set up with shims, balanced and load tested.



Looked on Ardoran Marine's site as they're Honda dealers, but only have a 115/130hp gearbox.



This sort of thing any use? Outboard Gear Case for 2008 Honda 225 with Propeller Lower Unit | eBay



Anything local with history, then my advice would be to go for it.

Actually the welding if done right should not damage the seals because the oil in the case can absorb most of the heat. Although of the shaft is bent the seals are probably already toast

[ajstars]

Thanks for all the advice, I'm not sure it's a crack - I will take a better look.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by idsebby

Actually the welding if done right should not damage the seals because the oil in the case can absorb most of the heat. Although of the shaft is bent the seals are probably already toast

Had an acquaintance who bought a twin-Suzuki hardboat. Had some sort of issue with both motors, and they said the same thing (though I don't remember why they were welding on the lower units now.) In any case, both suffered water ingress and died while about 20 miles out. Boston Whaler covered the tow and repairs (replacements of both lowers, as I recall.)

Given that aluminum melts at something over 1200F, I'm not sure I'd want oil in the lower when welding on it.

jky

[spartacus]

I'd drain the gear oil after any repair and renew. Interesting video here on pressure testing lower leg and checking for bubbles using soaping water.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RZuTUyCuASg

[ajstars]

It's been stripped now and welding will take place without oil or seals. Just need a new bearing carrier now!

[phantom 19]

I am a TIG welder by profession and have welded up countless skegs over the years. never once have the prop shaft seals been damaged and I personally don't drain the oil either.

When you get it welded don't go for a straight weld, cut the Skeg and replacement piece so that the weld is at two angles.

[ajstars]

Thanks for the advice, I will make that request.

[PAC22NI]

Is it possible to use an aluminium welding rod with an arc welder to fix a Skeg? I've just broken mine! ☹️

[beamishken]

Tig is best for ally then mig you can use stick but I've never seen it done so couldn't comment on how good or bad it is
I'd imagine that due to the more widespread use of mig and tig for welding aluminium that stick welding is either difficult or produces inferior results
Personally I'd take it to someone who is good with a tig set and pay for it

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by PAC22NI

Is it possible to use an aluminium welding rod with an arc welder to fix a Skeg? I've just broken mine! ☹️

Steel Developments will do a good job, but you will have to take the gearbox off & send it away. You can buy a bolt on stainless replacement skeg, I think Neil McCrirrick has one.

[PAC22NI]

Thanks guys - I'm pondering over having a crack myself, having a go with quick steel or paying a welder (call out plus labour) as I've taken her off the trailer for maintenance and she's currently on my boat stands in the driveway. Had a look at the skeg guards on eBay but most seemed quite pricey and coming from [emoji631].

[beamishken]

Would it not be cheaper and easier for the welder if you drop the gearbox off the motor to weld it
It also gives the oportunity to check the pump impeller at the same time