Running in a new outboard

[Nightfisher]

Here in North America I have read many warnings about NOT using water-muffs to run any outboard. Filling a 50 gallon barrel of water and sitting the outboard down past the cavitation plate to ensure water pick-up ducts at cavitation plate are submerged is suggested. I have done it this way with outboards I owned: 9.9, 40, 60 and 70 Mercs and never ran into a problem.

[Fenlander]

>>>read many warnings about NOT using water-muffs to run any outboard

Loads of folks flush with muffs so I guess they are OK but I will always use a large tub. A significant reason is the exhaust noise when on muffs being annoying to neighbours but also I'd rather be running the outboard as intended with back pressure so the idle is correct and the impellor doing all the work... to properly assess how it's running and pumping.

[Mickhitchuk]

I've got it in a one of those bulk liquid containers as we speak
Going to run it in gear for 10 hrs at 2500 rpm, then do the 4000 rpm run in at sea for 3 hrs, don't think I could cope with poodling around for 7 hrs
Wife is giving me hell for smoking up the back garden with the 2x two Stoke mix

[Tim in Yorkshire]

I believe when running in engines it is best to vary the load/rpm slightly, therefore tank running at a constant rpm is not always the best, as the wear/loading on the individual components will be different at different harmonics in the rev range etc.

[Mickhitchuk]

Will do Tim, thanks for the top, I'll dial it up and down a bit on the tacho

[Fenlander]

I honestly don't understand what you are doing (meant in the nicest way). You have put some money and effort into buying brand new but are risking making your engine worse than a normal used one you avoided.

The running in schedule for your outboard surely is idle/trolling for 0-10 mins, up to 1/2 throttle (3000rpm) for 10 mins-1 hour, up to 3/4 throttle (4000rpm) from 1-2 hours with full throttle allowed 10% of the time, finally from 2-10 hours still up to 3/4 throttle but with full throttle for 20% of the time.

Once you have done the first hour which will go quick enough the throttle openings you are allowed will be enough to get a 9.8 to plane a small SIB so you will be able to have fun.

Running in as you are doing in a tank is potentially harmful as no engine likes running at revs with no load. Being in gear is not a proper load. Because you are not applying a sufficient load you are not actually running it in to bed everything properly. So when you take it to sea for the first time and give it some stick believing it will be run in it will go from never having seen a load to a maximum load in an instant... the very thing correct running in tries to avoid.

You need to get it on the water!!

[Mickhitchuk]

Thanks fenlander, I will considered myself told, stop with the tank and do it properly
Sometimes you just can't cheat I suppose

[Mickhitchuk]

Thank you thank you,walking up the garden to switch motor off, as I was going to it tell tale stopped, bag had blown into my tub and blocked intake, couple of minutes later and may have blown my motor
So bloody lucky

[Fenlander]

Oh well that was a lucky coincidence that no-one could have forseen.

But seriously on the occasions I've needed to run a motor in I've been so excited to get the outfit on the water the slightly reduced power for a while has not spoiled the outings.

I'm just trying to juggle weather, tides and availability of those who want to come with me so we can get out sometime this weekend. Can't wait to get back on the water.

Where do you launch??

[Pikey Dave]

I don't see your problem, I have run in a DF140 this year. The first 15 minutes was at tick over, after that I was up to planing speed. The whole 10 hours took less than 2 days. But I did have a nice place to do it in😎


.....sh1t happens.......

[jeffstevens763@g]

I might be corrected here but I too have my Suzuki to run in spells it out in the manual you get so I will follow that, don't forget if you have warranty issues they can tell on the computer exactly how it's been run certainly with the 90hp they can so my advice would be as others have said run it to the book lot of money invested not to.

Cheers

[dave3235]

Originally Posted by Mickhitchuk

Thank you thank you,walking up the garden to switch motor off, as I was going to it tell tale stopped, bag had blown into my tub and blocked intake, couple of minutes later and may have blown my motor
So bloody lucky

Complete and utter Donkey

[9D280]

I ran my clamshell in after the total rebuild by following the instructions candidate motoring at mind numbing speed from dunstaffnage to Tyndrum.


I then allowed it to go to the dizzy heights of 2500 rpm during the canoe bit of 70 wild miles and "horsed" back at the dizzy heights of 3000 rpm.

Where I'm going here is there will always be a suitable cruise for your rev limitations. ....

[paintman]

Unfortunately there will always be those that think they know better than the engine manufacturer. Hopefully this won't end in tears at some point in the future with posts on problems with the engine.

Mind you, I can't help wondering if this is a bit of trolling & the OP hasn't actually got an engine. Things like the bag incident just seem a bit too contrived.
Another forum has the 'custard test' where a picture of the item is posted with a tin of custard (preferably Birds ) on it to show that the poster actually does have what they claim. I look forward to being proved wrong.

[Mickhitchuk]

This for your help all, off on holiday now, sort out run in when I get back

[ShinyShoe]

If you could run in on muffs / tank then it would be an option dealers offered...

[Nightfisher]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

>>>read many warnings about NOT using water-muffs to run any outboard

Loads of folks flush with muffs so I guess they are OK but I will always use a large tub. A significant reason is the exhaust noise when on muffs being annoying to neighbours but also I'd rather be running the outboard as intended with back pressure so the idle is correct and the impellor doing all the work... to properly assess how it's running and pumping.

Yes lot's of people FLUSH there motors with muffs..a few seconds to rinse it out. But when I'm tuning up, testing or adjusting I, like most mechanics people take their motors to for tune-up and repair, sit it's bottom in a test tank, be it a barrel or whatever. Not so it can be reved in gear but to allow it, as you say, to properly circulate water..based on it's own suction.

[paintman]

Originally Posted by Mickhitchuk

Attachment 108237
This for your help all, off on holiday now, sort out run in when I get back

Doesn't count without the custard

[jeffstevens763@g]

Talking of flushing does the water circulate around/in the water pump when you use the flush point mine's a Suzuki I think yam have one as well just wondered for running engine whilst flushing through there with water not getting to the impeller

Cheers

[Nick Hearne]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Talking of flushing does the water circulate around/in the water pump when you use the flush point mine's a Suzuki I think yam have one as well just wondered for running engine whilst flushing through there with water not getting to the impeller

Cheers

My Yam 115hp says you should not run the engine when using the flush point!
It is just for flushing out after use NOT running the engine!!!