Rusty Steering Link

Rib Martin · 15 November 2016, 20:55

Hi I have a Mercury 75 4 stroke 2000 unit... I was just concerned that the stering bracket that is attached under the power head is showing a considerable amount of rust.... it looks like a cast component and will rust .. I have poked it with a screwdriver and it's pretty sound if I scrape off all the surface flakes and treat it with Fertan or equivalent that should help... has anyone else solved this problem what do I need to do to stop future corrosion? ...

matt h · 15 November 2016, 21:11

not alot you can do when they get that bad, either grit blast and re paint, then cover it in grease OR buy a new one. they were 25 squids if i remember rightly.
I'm assuming you are talking the triangular bracket with two stud holes?

Or the large Cast as you say arm which mounts onto main chassis.. it its the latter then clean off excess corrosion and cover with grease otherwise is a reasonable strip down and bloody expensive.

Rib Martin · 15 November 2016, 21:33

Hi Matt.. yes the cast arm on the Chassis... it's not as bad as some I have seen.. but I don't want it getting any worse....

whiskylee · 15 November 2016, 21:39

I had a mercury optimax the same year of manufacture (2000) that had the same rusting to the steering arm. Around late 90's early 2000's they cut cost on priming/painting parts I believe in Mexico. I had mine replaced with a 1980's steering pin that was like new !
Here is a photo of the condition

Rib Martin · 15 November 2016, 21:48

Wow.. that makes mine look like new...

whiskylee · 15 November 2016, 22:00

That's why I had it changed when I got the outboard. they call it the death bolt in the USA, that attaches to the steering pin. if it gives the outboard turns violently to one side and can throw you out. Check its condition and check for grease in the cylinder

Rib Martin · 15 November 2016, 22:12

Do you mean the vertical shaft... lubricated by the grease nipple ..

Iron Dials · 15 November 2016, 23:25

I have 2005 115 Mariner, same part that goes down into the chassis was rusting.

I kept getting opinions on it. They all said, it'll be grand but I wasn't happy so had it replaced.
The condition of the metal down in the parts out of sight was way worse than expected a so glad I had it done, wasn't glad when I had to pay for it though.
They gave it extra coats of primer and paint before fitting to help it last.

It's unlikely to get better so the longer you leave it the harder to work on when you do replace it.

whiskylee · 16 November 2016, 07:24

Yes there is a grease nipple on the mid section to put grease into the cylinder

Rib Martin · 16 November 2016, 07:50

Why is it not stainless Steel? Or just bolt on from underneath..... who thought it was a good idea ?..

Jerry · 16 November 2016, 17:24

Mine 90HP is also showing corrosion on the same part. Not as bad as the pictures, it's probably 50/50 rust and paint. What can I do to it to prolong is life. Or should I just bite the bullet and change it - but how much would that be?

Is there anything I can check to see the state of the non-visible areas? Look for any play, or grease leaks, or... ?

whiskylee · 16 November 2016, 18:32

Good info from another forum

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...cs-pg-3-a.html

Rib Martin · 16 November 2016, 19:07

I chipped all the flaky bits off and brushed it clean... looks good .. certainly strong enough... I treated it with rust eater.... I removed the steering link and swung the motor by hand.. nice and smooth... I blew the cavity out with the air line and you could see grease at the top if the pivot shaft.. all good..... I will give it a coat of black Wax oil tomorrow... [emoji106]

Pikey Dave · 16 November 2016, 19:23

It never fails to dismay me how people can spend a small fortune on boats & then let them go to rat sh1t for the sake of some basic care & maintenance. That's nothing that a fresh water rinse & a tin of silicone/wax spray couldn't have prevented.

Rib Martin · 16 November 2016, 20:47

Totally agree Dave... I come from a facilities management background... ten minutes of prevention is better than a life time of cures... I have only had the boat a month.. I know it's 15 years old but I'm now removing all exposed bolts and greasing them up and putting them back.. The Fuel sender is solid so no one has cleaned out the tank in the last ten years... need to get the boat to a known point ... you can't cover all bases but you have no excuse if simple things let you down.... [emoji51]

Jerry · 17 November 2016, 00:00

Annoyingly the whole of the engine (except for the swivel bracket and pin) looks like new - sprayed probably with corrosion guard, water doesn't pool on any parts at all (I've only had the boat for two months). The bracket - well, it's 50/50 rust and paint. Job for the weekend - at least have a look at the "bolt of death". I'm assuming I can remove it without major engine surgery?

Rib Martin · 17 November 2016, 07:17

Hi Jerry.. no it's a full weekends work.... power head has to come off.... I managed to clean mine up in situ chip the flakes off with a screwdriver then a course pointy wire brush in a drill....[emoji106]. Unless you have an engine hoist and time on your hands...[emoji12]

Jerry · 18 November 2016, 20:13

What would be the recommended paint (paints?) to protect that from more rusting? I'm assuming I will be able to reasonably clean the accessible sides from rust and then use a brush with whatever paints are needed. Once that's done I'll be spraying corrosion guard every now and then - so I won't have to repaint too quickly.
Do I just use single-pack galvafroid, do I use some two-pack epoxy zinc primers, do I do something else? What's people's experience in this matter? It would be also good (but not essential) that I can use the same paint(s) to repaint some small chips on the lower unit.

Rib Martin · 18 November 2016, 20:34

I don't know.... I don't think any paint will stop forged Iron from rusting... I'm going to use Black Waxoil it's self healing and has inhibitors built in....