Rydlyme

[cjj216]

Last few seasons, life has got in the way and my DF140 hasn't had the use it should. Just 2 full weeks family holiday each season with a full 12 months of the boat sitting at home on its trailer in between.
First year this happened I ran it up every 6 weeks or so through a big tub with diluted anti freeze in.
Last 2 seasons I've not done this.
It's still been serviced each season and on its last one I had the anodes changed. The dealer commented he'd cleaned up excessive "corrosion" whilst fitting the anodes.
Although a 2008 motor, it only has 250hrs but I'm thinking the lack of use is more likely the cause of the corrosion (more likely salt and limescale).
I've now noticed that the telltale isn't as powerful as usual so I'm thinking of flushing through this Rydlyme that the yanks seem to rave about.
First question is: Has anyone else used it?
Second question: the instructions on their website advises pumping through the muffs with engine off.. Without studying a diagram of the cooling system, would this ensure the fluid went right around the whole cooling system before exiting through the exhaust and/or telltale?
If anyone can recommend another product or method of clearing out the cooling system id be happy to hear.
Oh, and I always use boat in saltwater and always flush for 5 to 10 min after use.
Many Thanks
Colin

[diver 1]

Yes I used it on the same engine. I diluted 2 litres of Rydlyme into a tub of water and ran the engine straight from the tub. I tried following the cold method first but not much happened. When warm I got a lot of scale and muck coming out into the bucket. Remove the stupid plastic tell tale jet thing - that will block straight away. When finished I removed the thermostat and it was like new - beforehand it was a bit crusty

[Fred.]

This was talked about couple of months ago so may help


http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/salt-aw...-it-73065.html

[cjj216]

Thanks for replies.

Diver1 - how long did you run it for? How big was the tub you used?

Fred - thanks for the link. I had read that thread but it seemed to be more about Salt Away. I've read somewhere on t'intetnet that Salt Away doesn't work on scale and caked on deposits?

[beamishken]

Brick acid/patio cleaner is apparently the major active component in rydlyme at seriously less money
Rydlyme works well but it's eye-wateringly expensive

[cjj216]

Beamishken - That's slightly worrying. I've witnessed many an apprentice bricklayer or plasterer leave his cement encrusted tools in brick acid overnight 'coz he can't be bothered cleaning them. After just one night they're left with just a trowel handle!!

[jeffstevens763@g]

Suzuki Marine - FAQ - Fighting Corrosion

http://www.force4.co.uk/starbrite-de...B#.V9EwZygrLIU

for info

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by cjj216

Without studying a diagram of the cooling system, would this ensure the fluid went right around the whole cooling system before exiting through the exhaust and/or telltale?

Assuming you have enough water pressure, the overall effect is the same as running while on the water, so yes, it will hit all the places seawater normally gets pumped to. You do have to run it long enough to get the thermostat to open (assuming you have one, of course; it shouldn't take very long to get to that point), but after that, you're good.

jky

[cjj216]

Thanks for replies.
I notice the starbrite product actually recommend flushing through from a tub with motor running. Rydlyme seem to only recommend pumping through with an electric pump with engine off, which as mentioned wouldn't open the thermostat.
That said, they're probably all similar products. I'll be using one of them soon so I'll post my results.

[jeffstevens763@g]

There's a lot of mention of just flushing through with warm water if flushing through every use with fresh water should keep it clear I used salt away once a year but not sure it did anything so I think I will take an internal anode out in future to check for salt build up OMO

[matt h]

Do you think that star brite descaler would work in old car radiators?

It s not heavily blocked as was recored 25 years ago will an ally core instead of brass and is a light and partial blockage.
Has anyone used it and reports positively?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by matt h

Do you think that star brite descaler would work in old car radiators?

It s not heavily blocked as was recored 25 years ago will an ally core instead of brass and is a light and partial blockage.
Has anyone used it and reports positively?

I would use a proper rad flush

[matt h]

Hmmm. Tried that. Need something more powerfull
There are a few cold spots on the core. I dont want to have to re core it again

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by matt h

Hmmm. Tried that. Need something more powerfull
There are a few cold spots on the core. I dont want to have to re core it again

Dish washer descaler ?

[diver 1]

Sorry I've just remembered. I took the gearbox off the Suzuki, connected a small submersible pump (bilge pump should work) to a hose that I stuffed onto the water feed pipe that would normally connect to the engines water pump. I ran this pump in the bucket of rydlyme and then took the tell tale nozzle off the engine, connected a second hose to the stub of pipe the tell tale nozzle clips into and fed that back into the bucket which I positioned under the exhaust to catch the rest. This system minimised wastage / spillage and recirculated the Rydlyme. I ended up taking the thermostat out, running the engine for short periods (until the temperature of the Rydlyme was about warm bathwater temperature then switched the engine off and left the pump circulating I repeated this for about 2 hours I guess and eventually had around a pint glass or more worth of solid calcite like deposits left in the bottom of the flushing bucket so it certainly did something useful.

[diver 1]

I expect dishwasher descaler would in hindsight do the same job and work well. I was cautious not to damage any anti corrosion coatings within the engine

[Jabamusic]

Whilst I am new to the internals of outboards, I am much more familiar with inboard diesels and have regularly serviced ( and descaled) mine for many a year. I use a rad flush agent from the local plumbers merchant; recycled using a small drill pump into and out of a bucket so the warm water is collected and thus becomes more effective.
The main point I wanted to make however is that I remove the Internal anodes before doing the above ! I suspect I wil do the same when I get round to doing my F100

[Pikey Dave]

I'd be worried about flushing an aggressive acid through an aluminium engine. The main constituent of brick acid is hydrochloric acid, mix that with ally & you end up with lots of hydrogen, water & salt. It might be something I'd consider if I had a problem, but not as a routine treatment.
Just IMHO of course


Lions led by donkeys

[mick]

A good run in a fresh water lake does a nice job

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by mick

A good run in a fresh water lake does a nice job

👍


Lions led by donkeys