Seized Steering

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 17:18

After doing a little search to help me free off a bolt I wasn't able to find anything suitable.

I need to disasemble some of my steering to fit a new adjusting bolt. The last one fell apart on my last trip.

I've got the two bolts off that hold the arm in place but now it seems that the cast arm is seized on to the bolt. I've plastered it in wd40 and banged it a few times but I've got to be careful because its cast. Nothing is moving at present. I am going to give it another try on Friday once the wd40 has had time to work.

Any ideas or should I just wait and see how I get on on Friday.

Below are a couple of pics. The red circle indicayes the problem area.

Any help appreciated as this is the only thing stopping me from the meet on the 25th.

Nos4r2 · 11 February 2008, 17:43

Hello mate,

Hot water onto the casting until it's warm through to expand it, dry it quickly with kitchen towel then use Plusgas or diesel on the point where it's seized.Give it a tap like you have been.Stick more plusgas on then repeat it next day.Keep doing it daily til it moves.You could add a bit of vinegar to the water if you want-it helps salt dissolve.

IF it's feasable to get a heat gun (an electric one will do) onto the casting without damaging anything it'll help a bit too.

BruceB · 11 February 2008, 17:48

I assume this is a stainless nut by the cleanliness and the lack of thread actually threaded on. If so it has probably not seized as such but cold welded to the thread. Release agent will have little effect on this problem as the two units are as near as dammit welded together rather than some dirt or corrosion preventing removal.
Brute force is the only real answer but depending on just how severe the galling is the bolt may snap before letting go and the thread is most likely going to be damaged.
It is a problem I have found regularly with 304L and 316L stainless and the only answer is to apply anti seize compounds on assembly.

Or do you mean the stud is seized into the arm and the nut shown is loose?

David G · 11 February 2008, 18:12

Has it moved at all?
If so then I would tighten it back up a bit then reserve it until it goes difficult again, then repeat the process bit by bit.
Cheers,
Orve.

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 18:15

Hi Bruce,

Sorry if the picture was misleading. Its the stud that is seized in the black arm. The nut is loose.

I have an electric heat gun so Nos's idea might work. Never thought of that one. Did think of a gas gun but didn't want to start a fire. Will an electric gun melt the paint on the black arm ?

Unfortunately I'm away for a few days now. Back only for Friday when I want to do the job, then away again until the 24th. With the cruise on the 26th.

Nos. I did wonder if hot water would help but I can't do it every day.

NR.

Matt · 11 February 2008, 18:21

In my experience the only thing to shift siezed components like that is a blowtorch. Tried starting with hot water, hot air gun, etc, always just end up with a blowtorch. Obviously insulate the plastic tray and other susceptible components to avoid tears.

Depending on the coating, it might need the arm to be re-painted.
Merc paint though is VERY resistant to heat, you might be lucky and the arm coating is the same.

yoyo · 11 February 2008, 18:35

I would replace the locknut if possible with two regular nuts, locking one against the other tightly. Then I would use a good fitting ring spanner or socket.......shock, heat, WD40 all will help.

Limey Linda · 11 February 2008, 18:55

Hi Bigs
Had same problem a few months ago. I assume the stud/spindle goes all the way through with another nut on the other side. If so you will need to break the seizing by hitting on the end of the spindle , not the casting. In other words by punching it back through. Leave nut on the punching end but only halfway on, using a good punch, say 1/4 inch dia. start tapping on the end of the spindle, not the nut. Take it slow, no whacking. Any pre soaking/heating will help. If you have to use a torch on the casting, shield everthing else. Paint will be damaged but you are taking it off anyway so you can re-paint.
Cheers

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 19:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi Bigs
Had same problem a few months ago. I assume the stud/spindle goes all the way through with another nut on the other side. If so you will need to break the seizing by hitting on the end of the spindle , not the casting. In other words by punching it back through. Leave nut on the punching end but only halfway on, using a good punch, say 1/4 inch dia. start tapping on the end of the spindle, not the nut. Take it slow, no whacking. Any pre soaking/heating will help. If you have to use a torch on the casting, shield everthing else. Paint will be damaged but you are taking it off anyway so you can re-paint.
Cheers

Thanks for the info.

Sounds like a daft question but If I tap the spindle how does that free the arm ? Is it just the vibrating that softens up the salt ? I was never very happy at hitting the arm. Could end up with an even bigger bill and more time off the water.

I'm going to give it a go as you suggest and maybe get a heat gun.

Limey Linda · 11 February 2008, 19:53

Hi Bigs
If your system is like mine then the casting fits up against a shoulder diameter on the spindle. You may have to wedge a piece of wood between the casting and something solid. Basically you need to break it free by axial movement not torsional. If you have one try a hairdryer first. The principle is to drive the spindle out of the casting and not the casting off the spindle.

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 20:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi Bigs
If your system is like mine then the casting fits up against a shoulder diameter on the spindle.

Sounds right. I was told there are only two main types of hydraulic steering.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi Bigs
You may have to wedge a piece of wood between the casting and something solid.

There is a little bit of movement of the spindle so wedging a bit of wood in might stop the arm moving and allow me to tap the spindle just enough to free it off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi Bigs
If you have one try a hairdryer first.

Do you think that will make a difference. I have a paint stripper heat gun so I was going to give that a go, but if a hairdryer will do the job that should save repainting and any other possible damage I might do.

Limey Linda · 11 February 2008, 20:15

Hi Bigs
Go for it. As you say make sure the casting cannot move, wedge it solid and a good sharp rap with the punch/hammer should free it off. let us know the outcome.

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 20:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Hi Bigs
The principle is to drive the spindle out of the casting and not the casting off the spindle.

Last question. I take it the shoulder is on the inside of the arm.

Locozodiac · 11 February 2008, 20:46

If everything mentioned before fails, soak several times with brake fluid and let the liquid penetrate deeply, have removed nearly impossible things with it. Good luck, cross your fingers..

Happy Boating

jwalker · 11 February 2008, 20:50

Biggles, get a two arm puller and crank it up tight then apply heat as Matt says. You can tap the end of the puller spindle to impact the shaft inwards and then retighten it as you go. A piece of wood behind it will just crush.
Alternatively, a trackrod end splitter might be wide enough in the jaws and they are powerful but gentle in the way they work.

The scissor one.

Biggles · 11 February 2008, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Alternatively, a trackrod end splitter might be wide enough in the jaws and they are powerful but gentle in the way they work.

The scissor one.

I'll bear that little bit of kit in mind.

Limey Linda · 11 February 2008, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggles

Last question. I take it the shoulder is on the inside of the arm.

yes, male shoulder on spindle and female( counterbore) in arm.

Pete7 · 12 February 2008, 08:56

Nick, why is everything covered in harry black ?

Pete

Hightower · 12 February 2008, 11:11

I'd be assuming that the black tape was to enable him to fill the area with release oil or something without getting it everywhere and enabling it to soak in.

Nick, if you want a puller I might have one here that will do the job, I'm confident though that you will extract it from the shaft if you follow everyones instructions though.

9D280 · 12 February 2008, 12:36

I just spent the last 3 nights trying to break into my remote box to repair a wiring fault. Heat didn't affect the paint on that, and I used a "Camping gas" type blowlamp.

Good luck!