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14 August 2012, 20:56
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#1
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
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Seized Thrust Washer - Help!
After much procrastination (I was busy, the weather was crap, etc.) I knuckled down and serviced the Tohatsu 9.8hp 2 stroke. Successfully it would appear, but I need a bit of advice/help.
Basically, the thrust washer behind the prop is seized in position on the prop shaft. It's a light little engine so I haven't exactly gone at it with hammers yet, pending advice. Any pointers for freeing it and removing it? I don't have much in the way of fancy bench kit and I'm a mechanical novice. Generic pic of hardware below.
While we're down there ( ) I found that the castle nut on the prop was loose. On refitting it appears that to actually "tighten" it leaves it covering the hole for the pin so probably unwise to force it any further. I left it loose in the event. Is this accepted practice?
Thanks in advance.
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14 August 2012, 21:22
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,110
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Try using a brass drift and hammer. Gently...
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14 August 2012, 21:34
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,499
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Re' the castellated nut you need to add a thin shim or washer(s) so you can torque it correctly but still have the hole in the right spot.
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14 August 2012, 21:42
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
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Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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The hammer approach is likely to break the shaft seal. The best solution for the washer is a gear puller. Over here you can get cheap ones at places like "tool town" and "harbor freight".
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14 August 2012, 21:47
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
The hammer approach is likely to break the shaft seal. The best solution for the washer is a gear puller. Over here you can get cheap ones at places like "tool town" and "harbor freight".
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Ah-ha! That's what I need. Bet I can borrow one too
Max... of course!
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14 August 2012, 21:55
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
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get a blow lamp or the missus' curling iron & get a bit of heat into the washer. Start around the outer edge of the washer so the heat works inwards towards the shaft. Put the nut on the shaft & give it a tap with a soft mallet or a hammer with a wog between it. You might even get away with a couple of kettles o' boiling water if you're lucky. It doesn't take much.
PS (wog = wump of wood)
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
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14 August 2012, 22:02
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
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Pikey - perhaps one to try again, trouble is, the damn thing is so small that the flame was heating everything! I had applied a bit of heat and tapped it via bit of hardwood, but hadn't fully explored the technique. I'll try a bit of heat shield (wet rag?) on the cool bits and retry.
I have a bit of diesel soaking into it at the mo, maybe that will ignite and enliven the proceedings a touch!
Thnx
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14 August 2012, 22:08
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: hull
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Go to Machine mart they do a small puller for about £6,i use one for removing siezed wiper arms so they are strong but easy to use
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14 August 2012, 22:08
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Pikey - perhaps one to try again, trouble is, the damn thing is so small that the flame was heating everything! I had applied a bit of heat and tapped it via bit of hardwood, but hadn't fully explored the technique. I'll try a bit of heat shield (wet rag?) on the cool bits and retry.
I have a bit of diesel soaking into it at the mo, maybe that will ignite and enliven the proceedings a touch!
Thnx
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You could try dunking the whole bottom end in a bucket of iced salty water until it chills & then applying the heat to the washer. A touch of thermal shock sometimes does the trick, plus it gives you a head start on the heat before it gets into the shaft.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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14 August 2012, 22:21
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
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Why do you need to take off the thrust washer?
It's stuck on my engine too - but I'm leaving well alone (unless of course you've got a leaking oil seal).
I would just regrease the splined shaft, pop the prop back on, washer and castellated nut (+ new split pin).
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Is that with or without VAT?
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15 August 2012, 09:23
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
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Sparticus - you're not the first to suggest it. I suppose I'm keen to do it because it is designed to come off and some day I'll be the unfortunate one doing it, if as you say, a seal needs to be replaced or whatever. Plus, I'd like to be able to do it. At the heel of the hunt, I'm doing the service to learn something, not save money or time.
Of course, saving the money is nice
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15 August 2012, 12:27
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
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3 legged puller, as others have advised.
Don't go mad with the centre bolt - apply a bit of pressure and then tap the centre bolt with a hammer in the direction of the prop shaft. The whole thing will come away and land on your foot.
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