Some crap lodged in engine cooling circuit

[Dankoozy]

I am convinced there is some stuff floating around in the cooling circuit of my mariner 60. It did get to overheating a few times but I have always managed to free it up fairly easily. Would the head gasket need to come off it and be replaced if I wanted to see what's inside or is there an easier way of getting rid of whatever is inside?

[spartacus]

Hang fire before diving into removing the cylinder head just yet.

Elaborate more on the overheating. Does engine have a good tell-tale, is it used predominantly in salt water? What's the current servicing routine like (when was impeller last changed) and any maintenance after a trip such as flushing?

Sure you can strip out the head, but it comes with a degree of risk. The bolts will be invariably seized depending on the age of the engine. You need new bolts when refitting, a head gasket, and there's a torque sequence to do it properly.

First thing I'd do is remove the thermostat. These do fail. You'll need a gasket when you replace it anyway. That will give you a good idea of any salt build up.

I'd also run the engine with Salt Away or vinegar solution in a tub, and see what that does. You can use nylon strimmer line into the tell tale for any obstructions. If you're doing the cylinder head, then do the water jacket too.

Get some pictures up.

[Poly]

It sounds like your problem is definitely inside the head? Some people have found their tell tale / pee pipe gets a bit clogged up - and it can be cleared with some still plastic passed up the inside.

Ultimately the only way to see whats happening inside the water passages is to take the head off. Some people have success flushing through with salt away or even just descaling with something like vinegar or citric acid in the water (make sure you thoroughly flush with fresh water afterwards), which will dissolve any easily removable limescale. If its really bad though the limescale will be in places where the flow doesn't get to easily and therefore flushing will not reach. If its got that bad - removing the head may not be a bad idea as there are probably internal anodes that are overdue inspection/replacement.

The other "common" obstruction is bits of broken impeller if you've had an impeller failure. They don't dissolve so need the head to come off if you can't wash them out.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Poly

It sounds like your problem is definitely inside the head?

A bit harsh [emoji848]

[jeffstevens763@g]

Is there not an anode in the block you could have a look at first removing head bolts could be another problem if you shear one

[Locozodiac]

If water pump is doing its homework right, remove thermo and air flush with a compressor set to 30 PSI the internal thermo hole.

If that motor has high hours use on salt water, no matter if it was flushed with fresh water afterwords will definitely have collected salt layers on all cooling water paths. If wanting the motor to work as when new will need to remove the entire power head from base, remove thermo (s), cylinder head (s) exhaust cover (s) if having more than one, squirt pure vinegar on all water paths, let penetrate and mechanically scrape to immaculate perfection all water paths locates on cylinder head and internal crankcase as well. Poke with a plastic cannula alll water holes located under crankcase (4) Will need to order new head, exhaust, thermo and base gaskets.

There's always the risk that may broke any of the cylinder head, exhaust bolts when removing them, specially if both head gaskets were not torqued to their fact specs soon after break in period ended or when have changed new gaskets, salt water may have made its way in through gaskets and seized any of the mentioned bolts.

Now the dilemma is : keep boating overheating if the compressed air, flushing did nothing or make a full water path preventive maintenance risking breaking any bolt that can be removed latter at a machine shop ? Check pics for understanding..

Happy Boating

[Dankoozy]

I havn't done anything to it and it seems to have improved in recent months. Though I havn't used it loads in this time but the only time it gives bother now is if I leave it idling too long. Have a new impeller ready to go in so will see if that makes a difference before I do any more to it

[Dankoozy]

Originally Posted by spartacus

Hang fire before diving into removing the cylinder head just yet.

Elaborate more on the overheating. Does engine have a good tell-tale, is it used predominantly in salt water? What's the current servicing routine like (when was impeller last changed) and any maintenance after a trip such as flushing?

Sure you can strip out the head, but it comes with a degree of risk. The bolts will be invariably seized depending on the age of the engine. You need new bolts when refitting, a head gasket, and there's a torque sequence to do it properly.

First thing I'd do is remove the thermostat. These do fail. You'll need a gasket when you replace it anyway. That will give you a good idea of any salt build up.

I'd also run the engine with Salt Away or vinegar solution in a tub, and see what that does. You can use nylon strimmer line into the tell tale for any obstructions. If you're doing the cylinder head, then do the water jacket too.

Get some pictures up.

It never really caused trouble while cruising, but a few times it did start to overheat at 2-3k rpm. Have cleared the tell tale a good few times and that does seem to improve the flow now and then , will take another look at it soon once the weather improves a bit. Thx for your help

[Locozodiac]

If that motor overheats while running at full throttle for at least 30 minutes you better tear the whole powerhead down, clean all water paths mechanically to factory delivered conditions, change all powerhead gaskets for new ones and torque them to specs.

It's useless to keep using an outboard with overheating issues if in fear to break any powerhead bolt when removing them. If they break remove powerhead from pan and take it to a machine shop to have them proffesionally removed..

Happy Boating

[Dankoozy]

Seems to be grand these days except at idle and very low speeds.



Have changed impeller, nothing in the impeller housing seems overly worn.
Took off thermostat, doesnt look overly salty inside but there is a bit. Thermostat itself works grand. Overheating problem still there with thermostat removed.



I will drop the gearbox again one of these days and see if theres anything blocking the pipe. The water isn't gushing out of the tell tale so it' isn't on the way out the water is being blocked. When this corona thing is over I''ll take it out of the water and try the salt flush just to be sure.

[Wightdiver]

Originally Posted by Dankoozy

Seems to be grand these days except at idle and very low speeds.



Have changed impeller, nothing in the impeller housing seems overly worn.
Took off thermostat, doesnt look overly salty inside but there is a bit. Thermostat itself works grand. Overheating problem still there with thermostat removed.



I will drop the gearbox again one of these days and see if theres anything blocking the pipe. The water isn't gushing out of the tell tale so it' isn't on the way out the water is being blocked. When this corona thing is over I''ll take it out of the water and try the salt flush just to be sure.

I had a similar problem on an old boat and cured it by back flushing the cooling system, several bits of debris actually came out.

Rig up one of those cheap plastic inflation adapters that you get to inflate kids beach balls onto your hose pipe with gaffer tape, push it into the tell tale, ideally strip back the rubber hose until you get to the actual block, and then run the tap for a few mins.

Worked for me.

Good Luck

Andy

[Dankoozy]

Have this completely sorted now with the past while - the pee hole tube was replaced at some point and was too wide so water wasn't getting the hwole way up to the sensor at idle speed. Have a little insert at the end of it now with a 3mm hole and thats working fine