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01 June 2009, 22:50
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Length: 6m +
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 12
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Steering fuid leaked - Yamaha 150
Hi Guys, anyone any tips on adding new hydraulic fluid to a yamaha 150 4 stroke unit. the fluid has leaked out of where the hydraulic pipes met the ram, so i used ptfe tape and refitted them a bit tighter. now there is little fluid left and the engine doenst move when you turn the wheel
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02 June 2009, 00:12
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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The hydraulic steering fluid goes into the helm unit - should be a knurled cap on the top just forward of the steering wheel.
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02 June 2009, 00:34
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboym3
Hi Guys, anyone any tips on adding new hydraulic fluid to a yamaha 150 4 stroke unit. the fluid has leaked out of where the hydraulic pipes met the ram, so i used ptfe tape and refitted them a bit tighter. now there is little fluid left and the engine doenst move when you turn the wheel
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Yes, oil goes into the helm normally. You'll have to fit an adaptor to the oil fill plug and connect a tube to a clean container which you fill with Hyd oil. Then it's a case of opening the bleed valves at the Ram and turning the wheel to flush the air out.
BTW it's bad practise to use PTFE tape on hydraulic systems (the PTFE tape can get into the oil system and clogg valves etc). Do it as a last resort by all means but proper liquid thread sealent is the best way to go.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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02 June 2009, 10:03
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Ribcraft 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175TG
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 929
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10 June 2009, 03:33
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#5
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Member
Country: USA
Town: boston
Boat name: Miss bad 61
Make: Crapko, AKA Mako
Length: 5m +
Engine: OMC Mod50
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 398
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the tape is not the right fix for steerin.
Quote:
proper liquid thread sealent is the best way to go.
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only way.
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10 June 2009, 17:01
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If you removed the hoses from the steering ram, you need to bleed the system (air will compress rather than move the ram.) The links to the Seastar manuals will have the procedure.
Teflon tape is discouraged from hydraulics because bits get sheared off on assembly and may find their way into the valves and things in the system. If it's already on, you may or may not have the bits of tape loose in the system already - I'd leave it until you have a problem. Most likely, it'll be fine. If you redo it, use a paste-type sealant, and flush the old fluid out pretty thoroughly.
jky
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11 June 2009, 08:52
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Saltash, Cornwall
Make: Rib less:-(
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 693
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Apologies for thread creap, but can you strip and replace the seals etc on the seastar/baystar units if you did need to?
I was warned that one manufacturer you couldn't. I did it on my Lecomb & Smitt as fitted by RedBay after a few springs in the swash pump in the helm unit gave up.
Rgds
James
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11 June 2009, 09:32
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Ribcraft 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175TG
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jelly
but can you strip and replace the seals etc on the seastar/baystar units if you did need to?
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They sell seal kits for the cylinders and helm units - you can download the instructions at http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/SHARE...PDF_files.htm&
I'm not sure they sell spare parts beyond that.
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11 June 2009, 09:51
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#9
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
If you removed the hoses from the steering ram, you need to bleed the system (air will compress rather than move the ram.) The links to the Seastar manuals will have the procedure.
Teflon tape is discouraged from hydraulics because bits get sheared off on assembly and may find their way into the valves and things in the system. If it's already on, you may or may not have the bits of tape loose in the system already - I'd leave it until you have a problem. Most likely, it'll be fine. If you redo it, use a paste-type sealant, and flush the old fluid out pretty thoroughly.
jky
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That's what Hightower said
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11 June 2009, 09:52
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Saltash, Cornwall
Make: Rib less:-(
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 693
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Hi Dave
thanks for the link, looks like they only sell cylinder seal kits for some units and not helm.
Many thanks
James
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11 June 2009, 16:11
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim
That's what Hightower said
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True, he did, but I wanted to make clear that the tape is not incompatible with the hydraulic fluid; it's the possibility of sheared off pieces that are the problem.
jky
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11 June 2009, 18:20
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Angel-B
Make: Ex Y boat
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 9.9HP
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
BTW it's bad practise to use PTFE tape on hydraulic systems (the PTFE tape can get into the oil system and clogg valves etc). Do it as a last resort by all means but proper liquid thread sealent is the best way to go.
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Unless it is a parallel thread, in which case a (dowty) bonded seal is the answer
Cheers
Chris
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17 July 2009, 17:36
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#13
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jelly
Hi Dave
thanks for the link, looks like they only sell cylinder seal kits for some units and not helm.
Many thanks
James
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Late reply, sorry.
Seastar Helm seal kit (for most single station helms) is HS5176. Includes a body gasket, a shaft seal, and several O-rings. Price is around $50 US, as far as I can tell.
You can also get just the shaft seal alone (Quad ring seal, 3/4"ID, 1"OD) for a buck or two. Seastar Seal part number is 225226.
Most (but not all) steering cylinders are now using HS5157, which includes the 2 glands, some new O-rings for the nipples and hoses, a wrench, and a, insertions guide tool. Around $100 US.
Quite a few people in the US are suggesting taking the old seals to a local hydraulic shop and having them match seals. Saves money, I suppose. I do not advocate this (for my safety), but am only putting it out there as an option.
jky
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