steering help

[arkamelis]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Yes that is something I thought and mentioned earlier on. My worry now is that once the bush started to move in the housing this has become the path of least resistance to turning and will continue to be so unless dismantled. I wonder though if the outer bracket could be drilled for a couple of screws to be inserted to try and hold the bush while further attempts are made to free... jacking... heating... thinner oil etc.

What is the bush made of.... nylon?

i think its metal

[arkamelis]

despite the horrible weather i went to check the outboard today, and its was loose as the way i left it last night, so good news it hasn't gone back to being tight, still not 100% but turns lock to lock reasonably easy
plan was to heat it up again and put the yamalube grease in which did turn up today.but due to rain didn't attempt heating up. so while the outboard was cold a cleaned up the grease gun and inserted the yamalube tube and pumped just bit it, but grease gun went nuts on me again so time for the bin, hopefully i can save the grease this time, didn't attempt it in the rain. will buy a decent one now.
so good new for me.

Just wanted to say i have been talking to a engineering who's worked on yamaha outboard for about 20 years and has repaired plenty of the v4 outboards, according to him, you don't actually see the pivot bush and that what you do see at the top and bottom of the pivot tube is a thrust washer and that the bush is below the washer, so if that is the case what i have been seeing turning is a big washer, which in a way does make sense, because if it was the actual bush itself i would have seen the split thats on the bush and i haven't seen the split on ether the top or bottom of the pivot tube. one thing he did also mention was forget taking the powerhead off, you end up having to grind many bolts due to corrosion and you have to replace many items.

but any how, could be the case i won't need to go to that length now. my next step is to get a decent grease gun, heat the pivot tube again and fill with yamalube . hopefully i should only have to make one more post now which i will do towards the weekend end when i have done the final steps.

Big big thank you to all members for help and advice, is a good site and good you all here to help

[Fenlander]

>>> you don't actually see the pivot bush and that what you do see at the top and bottom of the pivot tube is a thrust washer

If that turns out to be correct that's good news. I really would think hard if there is any way to lift the OB weight as Paintman and I have mentioned... it could make a big difference to where the grease goes.

[arkamelis]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

>>> you don't actually see the pivot bush and that what you do see at the top and bottom of the pivot tube is a thrust washer

If that turns out to be correct that's good news. I really would think hard if there is any way to lift the OB weight as Paintman and I have mentioned... it could make a big difference to where the grease goes.

sorry its not called a thrust washer, just a washer plate, you can see this from the diagram one of the other members posted. ( bracket 2 )
1999 Yamaha Outboard 130hp [130TLRX] - Parts Lookup - Crowley Marine

[arkamelis]

i will try to lift the outboard the next time im there, hopefully tomorrow weather permitting , think the only issue will be i will need to tilt the outboard little to get to the grease nipple as its located behind the main bracket ( hidden when outboard is down ) but i should be able the take the weight with a jack. i will let you know how it goes over the next couple of days.

again thank you so much for the help

[Fenlander]

Ah OK washer plate... but it's not the bush which is important.

Could you swap the grease nipple for a 90deg or 45deg one to get the grease gun hose on when the engine is nearer the down position?

[Last Tango]

Originally Posted by arkamelis

i will try to lift the outboard.......... , think the only issue will be i will need to tilt the outboard little to get to the grease nipple as its located behind the main bracket

If you can't lift it with a jack, is there ski eyelets or stern cleats you could put a ratchet strap on and get it round the skeg or cav plate when it's fully trimmed up.
It shouldn't take that much force as you're effectively only having to move a fraction of the engine weight a millimetre or so.
You want to get the strap almost parallel to the pivot tube so it will do the same thing as jacking a vertical engine would.

[beamishken]

Easiest way to lift the engine is trim it down onto a block of wood

[arkamelis]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Ah OK washer plate... but it's not the bush which is important.

Could you swap the grease nipple for a 90deg or 45deg one to get the grease gun hose on when the engine is nearer the down position?

i already have a flexible hose grease gun, putting on a angled grease nipple wouldn't make much difference the outboard would still need to be trimmed up to access the nipple.

[arkamelis]

just an update, been back today, but didn't carry out the heating up as i couldn't get the heat gun, so just put a little more yamalube in and set up the drag link bar. had a go on steering and it was pretty firm but much better than it was the first time i tried it so im pleased, but would be nice to be bit easier. still not getting grease coming out of ether the top or bottom yet, but again im planing to warm it up still.

[Davie]

The swivel tube is steel, the bush is nylon, the case is alloy. The alloy case has corrosion in it causing the nylon bush to basically strangle the swivel tube. Heat it up properly with a blow torch, as soon as it feels free, cool it with a hose. What your doing is melting the nylon bust to the shape of the corrosion in the housing.
Sorting this properly is a nightmare as it's the first part assembled on the production line.

[Davie]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Easiest way to lift the engine is trim it down onto a block of wood

Strap the transom tight to trailer, plywood under Skeg, wind jockey wheel up! Vertical lift that way.

[arkamelis]

ok outboard is now connected to steering, its firm to turn, so its still to tight i disconnected the steering and pumped in more grease, dam i don't know wheres this grease is going but its not oosing out of the ends of the pivot tube, one thing i have noticed today was, after working the outboard heavily lock to lock i noticed after sometime, old dirty grease coming out the bottom of pivot tube and what can only be described as dark dirty cheese coming out the top, not loads of it just a small amount, i think this was some of the corrosion that the wd40 might of got to, so another ten minutes of lock to lock turning, my arms felt like they were going to fall off still no significant change.

ive decided to go with david and phantom now and go to work on this mother *&%^% with a blow torch though i do have a very powerful heat gun could this achieve the same result over a bit more time ?

[arkamelis]

working on boat today ( lovely weather today ) steering all rigged up again and isn't feeling to bad now, little firm but manageable im going to stick with it for now and will keep pushing new good quality grease through . take it out soon and if it gets worse than what it is, blow torch time.

keep you updated