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23 March 2015, 12:19
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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strange electrical starting fault
Hello
wondering if anyone could give me some help on a strange fault i am getting on one of my boats
It has a Mercruiser 5.7 v8 and alpha 1 leg.
starts up well and runs lovely, turns over slightly slower though than my dads with the same setup but 5L engine.
i have been taking the boat out and it runs as it should, i just need to tweak the interrupt switch on the engine as occasionally it stalls when going into reverse. it has 12.5v when off and 14 when running but when coming in to dock if the boat stalls it will start but if it stalls again then it turns over really slowly and wont start. i then turn it to run on both batteries and it spins over rapidly.
this happened Saturday, i got the boat moored up turned it to the battery i had the problem with and it wouldn't spin over hardly. then left the boat for half hour tried again and you would never know there was a problem.
has anyone had this before? i have now changed both batteries twice and the issue is still there so no im wondering if the battery cables are breaking down and giving high resistance after running the boat. i will be changing these next week anyway as they are solid and cannot bend them plus are what came on the boat and being a 1996 its probably not the worst idea to replace them.
the batteries fitted are about 3-4 months old
if anyone has any advice it would be good to hear.
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23 March 2015, 12:33
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
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strange electrical starting fault
Check all connection ie earth an positive are clean . An if interruption switch is holding when going in to gear sound like a shift cable fault . Also is the battery cable the right size could be loosing voltage due to load
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23 March 2015, 12:35
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#3
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
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if its not the battery, then the cable between the battery and the switch is a possibility - but so is the switch. These 1/2/both/off switches are notorious for failing (corrosion?).
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23 March 2015, 13:12
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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cheers for the quick replies,
Yam man - earth has been cleaned about two weeks ago, i believe the battery cable is correct as was from the factory. the shift wable was replaced 12 months ago but the boat has not had much use since, could it just be it needs using or that the cable is no good?
i didnt think to much about the switch, i took it apart and its in a place where it isnt wet and tbh looked the cleanest part of the boat but will bear this in mind.
thanks for the help, glad i seem to be on the right path and always good to have it confirmed.
cheers
Jim
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23 March 2015, 13:24
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Don't know if it helps but I had trouble starting a few years ago and it was the cables from OB to battery which was in the consol and in the cables were routed under deck trunking I renewed and what a difference. For the price of cables worth a try.
Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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23 March 2015, 18:07
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Porchfield
Boat name: Katie
Make: Stingher
Length: 10m +
Engine: Verado 350 x 2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 697
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Bypass the current + & - battery leads and cutout switch with some jump leads, If the problem disappears you've narrowed down the fault
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Fully fledged member of the ‘Bordering negligent and very irresponsible club’.
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25 March 2015, 16:18
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#7
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Or wire in a temporary voltmeter at the motor. Sounds like a low voltage condition when cranking.
jky
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27 March 2015, 23:48
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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What sort of thing would cause this?
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28 March 2015, 16:58
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#9
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Low voltage at the motor while cranking, most likely. Once you verify that (and make sure it isn't the actual battery dropping voltage), you need to work back towards the battery and see exactly where it's dropping.
jky
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28 March 2015, 20:38
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Sounds like you may have a loose/high resistance connection, this could be either + pos or - Neg, cables.
Check all connections first, undo and clean, remember to grease each connection.
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28 March 2015, 21:01
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
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Another vote for connections and cables.
I rebuilt and old truck and put in a new wiring harness and had issues with it dying while driving and not starting sometimes. Turned out the barrel on the crimp to the main feed was cracked but the heat shrink held it in place most of the time.
When testing it id see the voltage come and go as I tugged on the cable and it wiggled the busted connection. Ended up actually piercing the cable in a few spots as I thought it must be broken internally before I realized the pulling and pushing made the voltages change.
I also had ground issues as I'd painted and powder coated every surface including those they used as grounds.
Jason
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28 March 2015, 21:17
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley / Holyhead
Boat name: Northwind Challenger
Make: Tornado
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 115 efi CT
MMSI: 235080598
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,411
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personally i think you have two problems, one is cutting out maybe due to running a bit lean? the other i think could well be starter motor brushes. i had similar slow starting and turning over issues, but because it would work at times i wrongly assumed that the starter was fine. was only when it packed in turning over all together that i took it off and once stripped i found two of the four brushes were knackered
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"Life may often suck, but the alternative is unacceptable"
MMSI Sticker
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10 April 2015, 07:24
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#13
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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You might check: Starter (use a draw tester (s/b 175 Amps max), or Engine Timing (not advanced enough) or Running hot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1eyedjim
Hello
wondering if anyone could give me some help on a strange fault i am getting on one of my boats
It has a Mercruiser 5.7 v8 and alpha 1 leg.
starts up well and runs lovely, turns over slightly slower though than my dads with the same setup but 5L engine.
i have been taking the boat out and it runs as it should, i just need to tweak the interrupt switch on the engine as occasionally it stalls when going into reverse. it has 12.5v when off and 14 when running but when coming in to dock if the boat stalls it will start but if it stalls again then it turns over really slowly and wont start. i then turn it to run on both batteries and it spins over rapidly.
this happened Saturday, i got the boat moored up turned it to the battery i had the problem with and it wouldn't spin over hardly. then left the boat for half hour tried again and you would never know there was a problem.
has anyone had this before? i have now changed both batteries twice and the issue is still there so no im wondering if the battery cables are breaking down and giving high resistance after running the boat. i will be changing these next week anyway as they are solid and cannot bend them plus are what came on the boat and being a 1996 its probably not the worst idea to replace them.
the batteries fitted are about 3-4 months old
if anyone has any advice it would be good to hear.
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20 July 2015, 13:12
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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just to put this to bed if anyone reads it in the future,
i replaced the battery cables and now it runs like clockwork so was just bad cables
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20 July 2015, 16:22
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#15
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Thanks for the resolution report.
jky
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26 July 2015, 07:52
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#16
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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Did you consider overheating? Take-it you have a working temp gauge..just seems that type of problem that solves itself after cooling down points toward an overheat condition or possibly the engine timing is too far retarded? Good luck.
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27 July 2015, 01:43
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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Boat has been used for last few months since changing cables and not missed a beat
Not overheating as gauge sits perfect where it should and ignition was changed and I set it up bang on and checked a few times
The cables was knackered when they came off. Brittle as anything and the lug that went on the starter had cracked
As I said above. It's been fixed so not looking for anything else
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