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Old 17 November 2015, 09:35   #1
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stuck impeller

Can anyone give advice on how to removed a stuck impeller.

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TSM
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Old 17 November 2015, 11:06   #2
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do you mean stuck on the shaft mick try some good freeing agent and soak it some use to swear by diesel, looking at your last post some corrosion issues possibly causing the impeller to stick, can you get a hard wood wedge under the impeller?

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Old 17 November 2015, 13:39   #3
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I can get large screwdrivers under the impeller. I have tried prying it off with these screwdrivers. I keep spraying in WD 40 every time I pass it. This I suppose is the down side to 3 year service schedule. It will not happen again.
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Old 17 November 2015, 17:02   #4
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If you're replacing it, soften it up with a heat gun (make sure you don't melt other rubber seals and such), or carefully cut it off.


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Old 17 November 2015, 18:14   #5
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I'd be tempted to carefully cut away the rubber bits with a stanley to get directly to the collar then cut/file/ prise it open!
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Old 17 November 2015, 19:48   #6
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There's a vid on YouTube 2010 60 hp etec lower leg refurb including water pump impeller not held by loose key way it's a flat on the shaft he uses two flat screw drivers,states can be hard to remove.
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Old 17 November 2015, 20:20   #7
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Jeff

I have tried that with the two screw drivers and have damaged the plate under the impeller so the job is now a impeller kit instead of just an impeller. I have placed an order for a dremel tool and will cut the b- ard open.

TSM
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Old 17 November 2015, 21:01   #8
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The woodruff key (half moon) that fits on the splined driveshaft often fuses in position too. Lube it up and change the impeller every two years.
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Old 18 November 2015, 07:49   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
The woodruff key (half moon) that fits on the splined driveshaft often fuses in position too. Lube it up and change the impeller every two years.
according to the you-tube vid its not a woodruff key its a flat on the shaft with a corresponding flat inside the impeller.have a look at the vid some other points to consider ie gear shift rod position.if its that tight mick only option is to cut, would vertically down inline with the shaft be possible with a hacksaw fine tooth blade on its side?.
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Old 18 November 2015, 08:56   #10
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I think the Dremel is going to be the answer. Just take your time.
Whilst it does have its uses for many things WD40 isn't much cop as a releasing fluid. Plusgas or Loctite's 'Freeze and Release' are both very good - I use both.
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Old 18 November 2015, 10:47   #11
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I think the Dremel is going to be the answer. Just take your time.
Whilst it does have its uses for many things WD40 isn't much cop as a releasing fluid. Plusgas or Loctite's 'Freeze and Release' are both very good - I use both.
thats it plugas sh-t hot, theres another on youtube cutting down with a recipricating saw on a 90 leg doesnt take long.
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Old 18 November 2015, 13:07   #12
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I got it free last night. I cut away the rubber to reveal the brass ring. I hit it a few times with a cold chisel and hammer and it realeased. Having looked at the proximity of the seals to the gear box I would not recommend any type of heat to sort this problem out. It took about five firm blows to get the ring to release. No sign of corrosion and I do not believe that I did any damage to the gear box.
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Old 18 November 2015, 14:12   #13
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is it a woodruff key mick out of interest or a flat on the shaft
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Old 18 November 2015, 15:12   #14
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Not a woodruff key ( type found in steering systems hydraulic) it is a flat section on the shaft.
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Old 18 November 2015, 22:19   #15
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Not a woodruff key ( type found in steering systems hydraulic) it is a flat section on the shaft.
Glad you got it sorted. Yamaha, Mariner and Tohatsu 2-strokes still use the woodruff keys as far as I'm aware.
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Old 19 November 2015, 07:45   #16
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all sorted now mick and no damage which is the main thing. woodruff on suzuki too 2009 dont suppose they have changed on new engines.

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