Suzuki DF115 ECU

[BruceB]

Started the work tonight with the most important part, changing the 90 sticker on the hood to 115.
Intend to start taking out the block if the weather is half decent this weekend or next.
Hoping to have it done in the next month or so ready for the summer..........

[BruceB]

Finally got the block out today and got it into the garage to change the cams. It was a bit of a struggle lifting it out by hand, I'll definitely need an engine crane to put it back in as its a good bit heavier that I thought (or I am much older, can remember manually lifting engines out of Fords 30 years ago and up flights of stairs without much effort!)
Anyway, apart from any required cam shims have all the bits, will change out the cams in the garage now and see if my cunning plan works.............

[BruceB]

Cams now out and the new cams just awaiting the delivery of some plastigage to check the bearing clearances.
All the valve shims measured ready for checking after the cams get fully installed and I can turn the crank over to measure.
Nobody ever did answer the question though, has anybody else ever tried doing this to a 90hp?
I keep looking and can't find anything that says you can't but I suppose I will soon find out!

[BruceB]

I don't bl**dy believe it. I installed the two cams I bought as a pair last year for a DF115 and just before I torqued them down I ran a micrometer over the lobes and one of the damn things is a DF90 cam!
So when I bought a pair of DF 90 cams from the suzi dealer off ebay last year they supplied me with one of each for a DF90 and a DF115 rather than the pair I actually purchased.
Since it was a year ago and I only just took them out the box I have asked if they will swop it for the right one but don't hold out much hope.
So now I am snookered putting it back together until I can get a replacement cam, again, b**er!

[A1an]

Did you keep the 90 sticker?

[parm]

Originally Posted by A1an

Did you keep the 90 sticker?

[BruceB]

Here, I thought the whole point of the other thread was we were all touchy feely and couldn't take the piss
I am in negotiations to get the cam swopped for the correct one, its just a mistake that has put me back, had been hoping to drop the block back in this weekend and start connecting everything up while I waited for the valve shims to arrive. Now I can't even measure them up till I get the correct cam.

ps I'll be leaving the 115 sticker on even if it stays a 90 just for the pose factor.

[BruceB]

Got the right exhaust cam on its way up now, weather permitting should be able to drop the engine back in at the weekend (its snowing up here again and baltic)

[BruceB]

And to add salt to the wound, Fedex have now officially lost the replacement cam.
Its beginning to look like starting 10 weeks before Easdale to do a job that should only take around 10 hours work that I won't have the boat put back together in time to go.

[A1an]

Have you tried Colin at Ardorran Marine?

He usually has a few breaking engines, you might get lucky.

[BruceB]

Finally got the replacement cam to replace the one that fedex lost.
Cams now both in and just awaiting the shims now that I have measured what is needed and ordered them.
Should have the shims this week along with the engine crane to lift it back on.
Once the crane and shims are here it should go back together quickly although too late for Easdale now!
Hopefully should soon get the gubbins around the block all connected up and try it to see it it works and I get the extra 25hp
It'll eventually be finished.........

[BruceB]

Shims arrived today, installed and clearances checked.
All systems go, just need the hoist to arrive and it can all go back together again and release the power, assuming it all works!

[BruceB]

Block hoisted back on today and most of the ancillaries and hoses reconnected. Just really got all the wiring loom and odds and sods to rerun and connect.
If I can get a bit of dry weather it only needs a couple of hours now and I can flash her up. Very interested to see if this cunning plan actually works!

[BruceB]

Finally got all the wiring and hoses put back on and refilled with oil etc ready to go, and it didn't when the key was turned.
Eventually found the new ecu was gubbed and wouldn't allow the starter to operate.
The motor runs fine using the original 90 ecu.
I had tried plugging in the new ecu when I got it but hadn't actually started the motor with it connected at the time. Even now the motor shows up and has no faults when connected, the b**ger just won't start when the key is turned.
The work hasn't been hard to do but parts have been a nightmare forone reason or another.
Away to knock my head against the wall a few times.............

[A1an]

Did you modify the engine holder while you had it in bits?

The steel blank in the unused O2 sensor hole rots the holder out.

[BruceB]

No idea what unused sensor you mean, or what modification?

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by BruceB

No idea what unused sensor you mean, or what modification?

I think it's only on pre 2008 140s, but I could be wrong. There's a blanking plug somewhere in the exhaust manifold, they put a steel plug in an ally casting & it rots the casting, plenty on the web about it. I'll have a rummage round.

[A1an]

It's a problem with early models, suzuki realised the problem and fixed it on later models. You can buy an Aluminium plug but taking the steel one out can destroy the corroded threads.

It seems like its not a case of IF, more like WHEN. For some reason its on low hour units, I know of an early DF 140 that has more than 3000hrs on it and its still going strong.

corroded plug.....



Fixed/bodged....

[Pikey Dave]

here you go