Suzuki DF200 V6 repainting leg?

[Revenger715]

So I have two of these bad boys on the back of my new (to me) Beneteau Flyer 850 Sundeck, 2015 model (boat and engines) and looking a little less than tip top on the legs despite only 85 hours. She lives on a berth all year around. The cowlings are OK, will probably just de-sticker and polish / touch up some minor blemishes and put a new sticker kit on.


But what to do on the legs? Don't get me wrong they are not minging by any means but I'd still like to rub back and re-paint. The rest of the boat is lovely and coming out for new antifoul + a total hull polish and ceramic coating in March + new flexiteak in the cockpit / aft so I want the engines to live up to the general loveliness elsewhere!!



What is the right stuff to use and the right way to do it? I've read somewhere a decent rubbing back and then etch primer and genuine paint + lacquer?

[spartacus]

Nugent is your man for painting.

My understanding is etch primer is required if you’re down to the bare alloy, then 1k rattle cans or 2k colour coat if you want a durable factory finish which is full respirator and professional spray booth. If we’re talking oxidisation and discolour, then the existing paint needs flattened to achieve a key rather than stripping it to bare metal.

Don’t underestimate the cost of the full decal kits too.

[intrepid_rib]

Originally Posted by Revenger715

So I have two of these bad boys on the back of my new (to me) Beneteau Flyer 850 Sundeck, 2015 model (boat and engines) and looking a little less than tip top on the legs despite only 85 hours. She lives on a berth all year around. The cowlings are OK, will probably just de-sticker and polish / touch up some minor blemishes and put a new sticker kit on.


But what to do on the legs? Don't get me wrong they are not minging by any means but I'd still like to rub back and re-paint. The rest of the boat is lovely and coming out for new antifoul + a total hull polish and ceramic coating in March + new flexiteak in the cockpit / aft so I want the engines to live up to the general loveliness elsewhere!!



What is the right stuff to use and the right way to do it? I've read somewhere a decent rubbing back and then etch primer and genuine paint + lacquer?

I fully repainted a DF50 a couple of years ago and I was happy with the results. Process I used was;

- Remove all corrosion with paper in fairly good areas and wire wheel in more pitted areas.
- Rubbed down fairings and hood.
- Etch primer over the lot
- Skim fill with 2 part filler over blemishes and rough areas of corrosions. Rub down and repeat.
- Spray filler coats x 2. Rub down and repeat. 400 grit.
- Final 2 coats of primer. Wet sand with 800.
- 3 coats of metalic 2k (the kind with a pull ring at the bottom). 2 coats of 2k lacquer.
- 2000 wet sand, polish and decals. Materials cost including decals was about £200ish.

My main terror with this job was using 2k paint, as really you should have an air fed mask and a filtration system when using this stuff. I spent a long time researching it and finally satisfied myself to do the job with:

- Lots of ventilation. Massive air mover fan to pull air thorough one door of my workshop and out the other.
- Spent ages researching a mask (will dig out details if you’re interested in what I used). It was about £50, most of which was the cost of the 3M filter.
- Full suit and gloves as isocyanates can enter through skin, eyes, pretty much anywhere.
- Didn’t take any safety gear off until well clear of my workshop.

A very satisfying winter project which I would recommend!

[Revenger715]

wow! Very nice job - wanna do mine (she's in France!).


Thanks fellas

[diver 1]

Might not be the recognised or best method but to be quite honest I've had perfectly good results simply sanding back with appropriate grades of paper / wet and dry and spraying on this:

https://www.saveanddrive.co.uk/produ...00ml-simvht52d

I've found its a good match with the Suzuki shadow black paint, adheres well to anything, even bare aluminium, and stayed on for a long period, even when used on skegs and props.