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Old 26 December 2017, 12:54   #41
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
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What's the revs showing when your doing 20 knots.?
I would say go down to a 10 inch pitch set your tilt at the second hole, with that boat you should easily plane with three people you might lose 1-2 knots at WOT depending on if your at max reves now.also people position might bog you down to sitting astern we use to move well forward until it got on the plane then move back.
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Old 26 December 2017, 17:04   #42
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Boat name: Destination Anywhere
Make: AB Lammina 10al
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki DF20/DF2.5
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Ok many thanks chaps. Seems like a 10” prop is my starting point. We’re currently berthed for winter and in a particularly tight berth, stern to, with the rib on the back so it’s not easy to try out the rib until we leave at the beginning of March. So, I’ll get it serviced and the prop changed and then do some tests once we are out and about again.

Many thanks for all the suggestions.

Fenlander. Many thanks for your nice comments on our home and transport 😀 blue hulls are a very mixed blessing. They are incredibly difficult to keep, but they do look nice! Same with teak decks - given a choice I’d have neither but these boats usually come with both so no choice.

Cheers
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Old 11 March 2018, 13:17   #43
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Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
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See here for some info on home diagnostics with the SDS system...

http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/suzuki-...tml#post767629
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Old 15 May 2018, 22:18   #44
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Nimrod II
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Length: 3m +
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Just completed the 2018 service... knowing the hours and use I took a pragmatic approach to the items I replaced so it only cost about £15 as oil and filter were the only items changed. Impeller fine. Anodes good. Drew a small sample of gear oil and that was clean so put it back and level as I filled it last year. Plugs still good. Diagnostics showed no faults.

Pleased to find my Pela vacuum extractor will pull out every drop of oil through the dipstick tube.

https://www.gaelforcemarine.co.uk/en...tr/m-2556.aspx

Now all ready for Cornwall in 4wks time.

Pleased I took the self servicing route. The yearly from the dealer would have been anything from £120-£200 plus two 2hr return trips to drop off and collect. But more than the cost and travel saving I prefer to know exactly what 's been done.
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Old 16 May 2018, 17:01   #45
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Sounds good fenlander, I'm considering a new 20hp 4 stroke and it's a toss up between the new tohatsu or the suzuki you have . I think like yourself I'd chance the warranty and do the servicing myself
I was offered a new suzuki for £2150 a while ago but the deal is no longer available - Simon shopped about recently and the cheapest he could find it for was £2350
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Old 16 May 2018, 17:14   #46
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Nimrod II
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Yep that's about the price... I think Ely Chandlers in Cambridgeshire where mine came from are £2299 at the moment.

I am totally satisfied with the Suzuki but if I were deciding today would weigh up Suzuki vs the new Tohatsu Efi very carefully.
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Old 23 May 2018, 15:18   #47
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Hypothetically what do you think you'd go for if you were buying today - assuming self servicing and prices were the same?
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:05   #48
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Duggie I love the Suzuki and it's proved easy to service... nice to be able to get the diagnostics too. However as I've said above if it were stolen needing a replacement I would be 50:50 with the new Tohatsu 20Efi. I'd go and handle the Tohatsu and see if offered any advantages.

It could come down to some really small feature or even styling!
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:08   #49
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Yeah it's a toss of the coin for me. I think I'd go for the suzuki (just) because I have an on line suzuki mechanical consultant (that's you :-) ) and there seem to be more of them about so it's easier to get opinions about stuff if you run into any problems !
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:24   #50
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For me... accepting I was DIY servicing... I'd not buy the Tohatsu if there was no DIY access to diagnostics.

I wish more folks who have bought them would post about them... I'm sure there are one or two on here and also over at Fribs & SIBS.
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:26   #51
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Simon is delighted with his -he's only just run it in though.
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:37   #52
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That's good. Has he written it up on here... perhaps he has and I've forgotten??
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Old 23 May 2018, 16:41   #53
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No don't think so, we're planning a trip next week so I'll mention it to him!
I got a shot of his highfield with his suzuki when we were away last time. Thought it was brilliant and it was night and day compared with my honwave - but his engine+ trailer+ rib was 6k compared with my 2k boat + engine!

Sent from my SM-G900F using RIB Net mobile app
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Old 25 May 2018, 08:17   #54
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A fantastic post that can be used as a reference for others with the same engine, well done with both your service and write up.

I find myself at a crossroad deciding between an old and simple 2 stroke or new and more technicaly advanced 4 stroke. I suppose that discussion is for another thread. Regardless your thread has clarified what a modern 4 stroke engine needs for a service, I guess with emission regulations other manufacturers will gradually change their models to EFI.

I do have some questions though, I could probably answer these with a Google search but your thoughts might add some more clarity.

1. You talk of diagnostics, could you elaborate on this? Is there a way to interface with the ECU such as a car OBD2 interface. If so do you know of any specialist software? For me such a system is a positive, I have VCDS for VAG vehicles it can be a real time saver when trouble shooting.

2. With regards to the cambelt, this has always been an anxiety for me. Ultimately the 4 stroke is an interference engine unlike a 2 stroke, we all know a failure of this component would cause catastrophic engine failure. I don't know your past mechanical experience but how do you feel about changing this at the 4 yearly interval and what special tools do you require? How much are they?

3. Lastly my last anxiety of EFI probably due to a lack of knowledge is injectors. I have heard scare story's of these being extremely expensive on vehicles. I don't know how likely these are to fail, is it something you would carry as a spare such as spark plugs?

Thank you!
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Old 25 May 2018, 12:21   #55
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This year for hols we're renting from a notable professor in the sciences. I always ask loads of detailed questions to ensure we're not going to be stuck next to a sewage treatment works etc. I loved his reply which started... "A lengthy note but all sensible questions and well explained". I award you this phrase too.

Re the new 4-stroke or ten year old 2-stroke. Either is good... neither is wrong. A decision that can go either way depending how the wind blows. For me the quietness of 4-stroke when trolling in wildlife areas or on rivers plus the economy improvement which increases range by 30%-50% for the same tank capacity and saves carrying a second tank on long days out are major factors. ECU controlled cold start mixture/idle speed is far better than a choke too giving the same stability of idle at a set speed from the second it cold starts to when hot mid summer.

Makers are already changing to efi in the 15/20hp and above ranges. I think Suzuki were first with their 20hp 5yrs ago. Now Tohatsu and Mercury/Mariner have followed suit.

Re Diagnostics... Have a look at the thread with screenshots where you can see the dealer level info taken from the laptop. CD software and lead good value around £55. http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/suzuki-...tml#post767629

So yes the outboard version of OBD2 except as far as I know it is all maker specific whereas with cars you can get the basic engine data for any car on almost any reader.

I know VCDS. I don't have it but do have an advanced handheld reader for VW/Audi as daughter has a VW... I look after all family cars. This will do 90% of VCDS in error codes, deeper diagnostic, live data inc graphical etc but not component coding.

I have dealer level diagnostics for my own car plus a make specific handheld... and a advanced make specific handheld for Mrs F's car. All of these have basic OBD2 which is what I use for daughters Jazz which so far hasn't needed extended system diagnostics.

Years ago folks said cars were becoming too complicated for DIY because of all the "computer stuff". In reality if you have the diagnostics then home maintenance is actually easier than in the pre-ECU days.... and so it is for OBs.

Re timing belt... My level of experience is substantial over a 44yr period (just too modest eh) so a 20hp OB timing belt is a doddle compared to say a twin OHC transverse engine car with tensioner, idler pulleys and timing belt driven water pump... and less than the thickness of your knuckles between components and inner wing!

On the Suzuki the belt just goes over two pulleys and once the pull start is removed and flywheel is pulled off just a case of lining up marks and swapping belts.... no tensioner or anything else to deal with. Probably the only tool needed is a generic flywheel puller. I have several such tools and come the time I'm sure one will fit.

Belt itself about £20... no idea of labour but I wouldn't trust my nearest dealer to fit it.

I know folks who suffer timing belt anxiety. I've never had one break on a car but I always change on time and get the procedure spot on. I have no worries about them. Having said that pleased that now 3 of our 4 cars have chains... it just saves a fair amount of faff at 3/4yr intervals with some.

As a matter of interest from DF40 models upwards Suzuki have gone for timing chains with hydraulic tensioners and these only need looking at every 5yrs and probably never replacing if oil changes with the correct quality lube are carried out routinely.

Re injectors... Like timing belts I have no concerns. The 4 family cars I look after have 18 injectors between them and share a total of 500,000mls on the originals with no issues. Use clean fuel and drain/change filters when needed and trust them as much or perhaps more than a carb.... because when efi OBs are stored the small amount of fuel to them is in a sealed pressurised system... so no issues of fuel absorbing moisture or evaporating to leave gum deposits behind.

I am more aware of fresh fuel with efi though and fill the OB tanks prior to an outing or holiday and then sell the surplus after an outing to my daughter (the only petrol car on the drive)… so it's always running on fuel no more than a week old.
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Old 10 April 2019, 23:09   #56
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Wizzle
Make: Honwave T38
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Engine: Suzuki DF20 efi
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Hi Fenlander,
Really impressive article! It's inspiring me to consider for mine as well... can I ask where you obtained the workshop manual from? I've had a search online, but not turned up much?...
Thanks
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Old 11 April 2019, 11:37   #57
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It must have ben a lucky chance... soon after buying the OB I searched on Ebay and a dealer was selling this one. I do gather they are really hard to find.
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Old 11 April 2019, 12:09   #58
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Boat name: Spy-sea-one
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might be worth contacting these this is for the 25 which is current as it has the same bar code as mine

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Ou...sAAOSwlx9b4rtp
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Old 11 April 2019, 23:52   #59
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Ah, ok - thanks both.

Yes - I'll give them a try! Thanks
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Old 12 April 2019, 11:26   #60
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you can get manuals through the dealer ive been told today
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