Suzuki DF60A - 2014. Weak pee, but otherwise running great.

[intrepid_rib]

I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2014 Suzuki DF60A with a pee problem. The pee stream is very, very weak at the best of times, and non-existent other times. Engine never overheats and reads more or less in the middle of the range during operation on my SMG4 display. This season I have done around 50 hours on the engine with this condition, and have attempted to rectify by:

- Replacing full water pump kit
- Checking poppet valve which appears to be in perfect order, although I've ordered another just in case (awaiting delivery).
- Checked thermostat opens fully in a cup of 60 degree water, which it does
- With the lower unit off, blown some compressed air up the uptake pipe, which comes fast and strong out of the pee hole.

I'm running out of ideas, can anyone help? Thanks!

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by intrepid_rib

I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2014 Suzuki DF60A with a pee problem. The pee stream is very, very weak at the best of times, and non-existent other times. Engine never overheats and reads more or less in the middle of the range during operation on my SMG4 display. This season I have done around 50 hours on the engine with this condition, and have attempted to rectify by:



- Replacing full water pump kit

- Checking poppet valve which appears to be in perfect order, although I've ordered another just in case (awaiting delivery).

- Checked thermostat opens fully in a cup of 60 degree water, which it does

- With the lower unit off, blown some compressed air up the uptake pipe, which comes fast and strong out of the pee hole.



I'm running out of ideas, can anyone help? Thanks!

Is this in a tank on muffs or on the water?

[intrepid_rib]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Is this in a tank on muffs or on the water?

I haven't tried on muffs but it is doing it in the water.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by intrepid_rib

I haven't tried on muffs but it is doing it in the water.

Ah ok! Suzukis are a bit fussy about running on muffs. I’m not familiar with the 60hp, but I worked on a 90hp a couple of years back with similar issues, including intermittent overheating. I removed the lower unit & noticed that the oil seal on the outside of the water pump was missing, and considering the state of the seating face, it had been missing some time. Might be worth checking if yours should have a seal & if it’s there & in good condition. It sits on the outside of the water pump housing & the drive shaft passes through it.

[Limecc]

Remove the thermostat and run some Rydlyme through it like Bigplumbs did on his Mariner 60. Worked great on my DF60a. Vids are on Youtube.

[smallribber]

Easy option first

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTxzUcsPmFI

You can even use a car tyre pump

[smallribber]

Or this way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKY20Xo_piY&t=3s

If you like the videos Subscribing would be appreciated

[Old seahorse]

When I saw this topic ,it caused me some concern
I’ve got a Suzuki outboard, and I’ve got similar problem to that described. -poor or intermittent flow.
When I saw the options, some made my eyes water.
It may be an age related issue. I think I will speak to my G.P.
[emoji6]

[Peter_C]

Often a weak pee tail is just some debris in the outflow. Shove a wire into the hole and see if it changes, if only for a couple of seconds.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Did you blow back through the pee hole when you had the leg off and check where the water tube goes into the bottom of the engine block ?

[Trello]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Did you blow back through the pee hole when you had the leg off and check where the water tube goes into the bottom?

Old Seahorse, be prepared to answer questions like this when you consult your GP....

[Old seahorse]

It’s testing thatmy thermostat opens in hot water that worries me!
[emoji23]

[Old seahorse]

Apologies intrepid-rib for cutting in on your valid topic, my sense of humour got the better of me.

[jonp]

Ive owned three Suzuki's, all flushed and pumped water well on muffs. Both the 90's and the 140 all needed regular internal powerhead anodes replacing regardless of engine hours. When I bought the 140 secondhand it had just 38hrs since its last replacement of powerhead anodes which had actually been two years previously and there was nothing at all of the anodes left, just blocked with salt cooling passages. On my yearly services with the 90's, again very little of the anodes were left, however these did have clear cooling passages partly due to flushing with muffs and salt-away after every saltwater use.

I skipper a commercial boat for an outboard mechanic who warned me before buying about how important it is with Suzuki to keep an eye on the internal anodes. This is also backed up by his brother who owns one of the largest Suzuki dealerships in this state here in Aus.

Hopefully yours doesn't have such issues and has been well maintained by your dealership.

Just looking at a service kit and it looks like there are only 3 powerhead anodes on the 60hp.

Always carry some heavy fishing line about 150lb breaking strain and 6-8 ins long to slip up the tell-tail pipe which will often dislodge a blockage where the narrow part of the line come out.

.

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by jonp

Always carry some heavy fishing line about 150lb breaking strain and 6-8 ins long to slip up the tell-tail pipe which will often dislodge a blockage where the narrow part of the line come out.

.

Garden Strimmer plastic 'wire' also works very well in this regard