SUZUKI DT25 ('88) Remote control

nus_2004 · 08 April 2008, 21:10

Hello,

I bought 2 years ago a Suzuki DT25 ('88) for my boat but I was not given the remote control parts as the previous owner was using it by handle. I was forced to improvise and make my own controls (see picture below!)

It works fine except that when I push the throttle to Idle (neutral), the engine cuts off, not to mention that it takes ages to start it as the lever can't land precisely on neutral! And yes it starts fine without my design!
I assume the problem is that it needs tweaking and that for a few millimeters this does not work 100%.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to improve it?
If someone out there has a similar engine can you please take a few photos of your original suzuki controls (preferably next to a scale/ruler) so I can adjust mine to the right size?

Yes I am aware that I can find the original parts at store.brownspoint.com but I got a quote of $100 including p&p, and I want to solve this cheaply.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Nos4r2 · 08 April 2008, 21:41

Welcome to Ribnet!
Sorry to sound cynical but looking at the lashup you've made there you're far more likely to bugger it up than fix it and it's less than 50 quid to fix it properly. How much a new motor?

nus_2004 · 08 April 2008, 23:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Welcome to Ribnet!
Sorry to sound cynical but looking at the lashup you've made there you're far more likely to bugger it up than fix it and it's less than 50 quid to fix it properly. How much a new motor?

Thanks for the reply
You are not cynical, you are actually very wise!
Yes it probably has less hassle to just buy the parts but I like DIY stuff. Also I am curious to see if I can make it work

....I have heard what curiosity did to the cat and I hope it will not do the same to the motor!

I am going to give this DIY stuff one more chance and this is why I am asking for advice in this forum. If I still cannot solve it then yes I will just go buy the parts.

Nos4r2 · 08 April 2008, 23:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by nus_2004

Thanks for the reply
You are not cynical, you are actually very wise!
Yes it probably has less hassle to just buy the parts but I like DIY stuff. Also I am curious to see if I can make it work

....I have heard what curiosity did to the cat and I hope it will not do the same to the motor!

I am going to give this DIY stuff one more chance and this is why I am asking for advice in this forum. If I still cannot solve it then yes I will just go buy the parts.

oK...If you're sure, then change the angle of the cables relative to the levers. You really need the correct control box too though.

nus_2004 · 09 April 2008, 14:48

The control box that I am using came with the boat, but I never used it before. It has the option via a screw-type adjustment to increase or decrease its length (ie the place that the holder grabs). With that in mind I would like to believe that it can work with most engines out there.

As for the positioning of the cables, I think I understand what you mean. I found this photo of a Yamaha engine which resembles my Suzuki:

The places for the cable holder as well as shift lever is almost identical to the Suzuki (and I assume this is the arrangement you propose).

What puzzles me is that the throttle cable seems to touch the shift lever (it is circled in red in the first photo). For my cables to go to the Suzuki it does not only have to touch, but also bend a bit around it. This is assuming that I try to connect them in the same manner.

What do you think?

9D280 · 10 April 2008, 12:59

Hi Nus, Welcome to Ribnet!

I have one of these (93 vintage) so when I get back home I'll point the camera at it. In the meantime, can i ask - are you sure it's an '88 model? I ask because in 1989 they added an extra cylinder and oil injection, so if yours is a 2 cylinder then my photos are likely going to be pointless.

Meanwhile, have you looked here?

http://store.brownspoint.com/pdf/DT25(86-88).pdf

I think your gearshift problems may be solved by the gubbins inside...... Fig 9, if the ball joint (Item 23) isn't there, the hole to mount it will be! I'll bet you could bolt straight through it, but use a nylock nut!

Let me know if you have a 2 or a 3 cyl, otherwise my pics may be useless.

Cheers

nus_2004 · 10 April 2008, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

Hi Nus, Welcome to Ribnet!

I have one of these (93 vintage) so when I get back home I'll point the camera at it. In the meantime, can i ask - are you sure it's an '88 model? I ask because in 1989 they added an extra cylinder and oil injection, so if yours is a 2 cylinder then my photos are likely going to be pointless.

Meanwhile, have you looked here?

http://store.brownspoint.com/pdf/DT25(86-88).pdf

I think your gearshift problems may be solved by the gubbins inside...... Fig 9, if the ball joint (Item 23) isn't there, the hole to mount it will be! I'll bet you could bolt straight through it, but use a nylock nut!

Let me know if you have a 2 or a 3 cyl, otherwise my pics may be useless.

Cheers

Hmmm...the motor is a 2 cylinder and definitely 1988 model (Model No: 02503-xxxx), but before we cancel any photos let me show you something...

This is how the connection points look like on my motor. If you have the same arrangement then please do take the photos, if not then thanks anyway

As for the gearshift problem, you say it might be irrelevant to my weird remote controls!
I will definitely check if there is something missing over there

I understand how the missing ball bearing can mess up the engine, but what is happening is ...I put it on neutral and it slowly dies out, with in 5". If it was a bearing problem then shouldn't it just fall either to forward or reverse and "dodge" neutral? Not sure if its connected but it does take ages to start too sometimes. It has new battery, new impeller and new gear oil, clean carburetor and new spark plugs.

9D280 · 11 April 2008, 10:51

Nus,

Yep, you have the earlier version. On the '89-> the cables connected inside the casing.

However, hopefully a couple of general pointers. You say the problem is it dies when you go back to neutral. Does it stall if you just throttle back to tickover speed but leave it in gear? I think you may need to tweak the idle adjust screw (http://store.brownspoint.com/pdf/DT25(86-88).pdf , Fig 4, Item 12 ) or the idle mix - item 4 but try 12 first) to prevent it stalling in the first place.

The reason it's a pain to start is that there is an interlock which is basically there to stop you being thrown over the back when you forgot to put it in neutral & put the throttle to "slow" before starting it. I would say you likely have a few mm out with your connections that is not allowing it too properly drop back to the neutral spot and release the intrerlock. Basically the grear lever isn't being returned to it's "normal" resting place in neutral, that's why you canlt start it.

So, Back to figure 9 - Check numbers 23/24 are still there & the ball hasn't got stuck down - the ball engages in the dents on the shaped plate thing and ensures it has dropped properly into neutral. (and therefore releases all the starting interlocking) Your homemade brackets may be literally a couple of mm out, so it's not properly dropping back. It probably just needs adjusted a little. Are you using a bought cable? if so, the end should ahve a good inch or so of thread to adjust the position of the connection. Take the lid off, keep an eye on the ball (excuse the pun) and adjust it so it moves to the position it isn't in when you are in gear.

Let us know how you get on.