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Old 16 September 2011, 21:41   #21
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Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
To do this, before you start adjusting anything, with the motor switched off, engage reverse gear with the remotes (you may need to turn the prop a little for the clutch dog to engage). then disconnect the gearchange cable from the linkage, checking while doing so, whether there is any further movement in the linkage.
Good luck.
Thanks - I tried this and was originally convinced that there was no movement in the linkage - so using your advice from a few posts back disconnected the crank pin from the gearshift rod (although I'm not sure how I'll get to the other end to get it back together) and have taken the lower unit off.
The good news is that when I give the clutch rod a good hard tug upwards to put the gears in reverse, the gears engage and when turning the propeller it doesn't slip at all.
I've now re-looked at the clutch/gear selector adjuster and the shaft is only just screwed into the plastic end piece, which I think allows it to flex too much when trying to put the selector into reverse so it hasn't been engaging properly.
Hopefully the rod can be extended by unscrewing it in the centre (I ran out of time to check this) so I can just put it all back together tomorrow and it will be fixed.
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Old 17 September 2011, 09:40   #22
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Old 18 September 2011, 21:42   #23
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May be worth checking the control box to see if the cable ends have been screwed on a long way, thereby allowing very little scope of adjustment at the outboard end.
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Old 18 September 2011, 22:06   #24
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Thanks - That is exactly what I need to do as the bit where the rods join on the gear selector/clutch that I thought must be adjustable, do not seem to want to screw in or out so maybe there is no adjustment possible other than in the control box.
Does anyone know if the rods are threaded where they join and if they should be adjustable there?
Trev
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Old 18 September 2011, 22:19   #25
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Originally Posted by Trevor G View Post
Does anyone know if the rods are threaded where they join and if they should be adjustable there?
There is no adjustment on the gear-shift linkage in the picture circled. The only adjustment is on the threaded section at the end of the linkage. Remove the circlip, then the plastic shift cable joint, after the locking nut on the thread is released, etc.
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Old 18 September 2011, 22:26   #26
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Thanks - that means it is definitely in the control box that I need to make an adjustment so that the plastic bit is screwed far enough onto the end of the rod to stop it flexing when selecting reverse.
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Old 19 September 2011, 07:45   #27
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Not sure on how Suzukis are set up however on the control boxes I have worked on there was no adjustment at the control box end.
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Old 19 September 2011, 09:27   #28
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Quote:
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Not sure on how Suzukis are set up however on the control boxes I have worked on there was no adjustment at the control box end.
That's 'cos you've only had Jonnyroods.

Soozook (and all Japanese outboards) use 33c cables, which have the same fittings on each end.
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Old 19 September 2011, 22:19   #29
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Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
That's 'cos you've only had Jonnyroods.

Soozook (and all Japanese outboards) use 33c cables, which have the same fittings on each end.
Sounds ideal, soemthing they should all do !
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Old 21 September 2011, 12:17   #30
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So - it's all back together, gear oil added, engine starts OK, seems to go into both forward and reverse gears when running (albeit without the prop fitted and in a big plastic tub) - ready for a test run!
Hopefully we'll take her to Southampton on Saturday and run down to the Hamble - maybe even on to Cowes!
Trev
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