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10 February 2015, 14:03
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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to raise or not to raise..............
that is the question!
I have a problem with the boat leaning to the port while underway, i have managed to get rid of a good chunk of it by adjusting the trim tab, which is probably not the way to fix this.
The outboard is close to where it needs to be i would suggest, my dad says leave it but i think it needs to go up a hole......opinions gents based on the vast experience on here.
next time i'm out i'll hang a gopro on the back and see how wet the cav plate is, but in mean time just curious as to your own thoughts as never had to move one before.
cheers
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10 February 2015, 14:51
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#2
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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Its always little boat and prop specific but lifting an inch(possible little more) is what i would do as an starting point.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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10 February 2015, 15:21
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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if it was a small outboard i'd just move it and try it, but i need to book it in with local outboard shop and get the job done as i don't have the tools do lift it.
boat is a ribcraft 6.8 and engine a sooz 200hp. the engine revs out to 5800rpm with 3 up so probably in the ball park there too.
cheers
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10 February 2015, 15:21
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-NUMB
Its always little boat and prop specific but lifting an inch(possible little more) is what i would do as an starting point.
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Yep me too at least 2" I think would be better
The other thing I would do as a fellow RC owner is to drop jace an email asking his advice as they fit them every day.
__________________
jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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10 February 2015, 15:33
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
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TBH before moving a heavy lump i'd look more at the load distribution of "Stuff"(spare fuel can, battery(s) anchor, Fat boys packed lunch if your like me, water in hull etc)
this is going to be cheaper and faster, see This Post.
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10 February 2015, 19:19
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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to raise or not to raise..............
If the boat is on a trailer with a bog standard jockey wheel, lifting the engine is a doddle & takes an hour at the most. Lower the jockey wheel so that the boat is bow down, lower the engine & place a lump of wood under the skeg, wind down the jockey wheel until the skeg is firmly on the wood & remove the 2 mounting bolts that pass through the non-slotted holes on the engine saddle. Loosen the bolts in the slotted holes but don't remove them. You can now raise or lower the jockey wheel & the transom will raise/lower whilst the engine stays stationary. Re-fit the locking bolts & voilà.
Ps, don't forget to reseal the bolts.
.....sh1t happens.......
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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10 February 2015, 19:27
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich
TBH before moving a heavy lump i'd look more at the load distribution of "Stuff"(spare fuel can, battery(s) anchor, Fat boys packed lunch if your like me, water in hull etc)
this is going to be cheaper and faster, see This Post.
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there is nothing on the boat, it is 100% an engine related issue unfortunately.
I'll drop Jason an email and see what they say, worth a go.
Pikey- can you tell me more about moving the engine? i didn't realise there was slotted holes or i wouldn't have any qualms about doing this.
cheers
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10 February 2015, 20:02
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Dunoon
Boat name: Celtic Wanderer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Volvo D6, Honda
MMSI: 235087784
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 205
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Engine height might not be the problem
Have you offset the engine correctly ?
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10 February 2015, 20:34
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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the engine is offset probably in the region of 1-2", it came from ribcraft this way so i assume it is enough.
not the best pics but you get idea.
Pikey...no slots buddy so outboard shop it is i guess.
cheers
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10 February 2015, 21:29
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bromsgrove
Boat name: Kick-Ass !
Make: PAC/Artic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 250hp Yamaha
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,577
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If I had fitted this I would say its needs lifting 1 hole,,
But surely ribcraft no there set up with this engine better than any one,,
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˜™
MY BIGGEST WORRY IS THAT MY WIFE(WHEN I"M DEAD)WILL SELL MY TOY'S FOR WHAT I SAID I PAID FOR THEM.
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10 February 2015, 21:31
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D
Pikey...no slots buddy so outboard shop it is i guess.
cheers
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Bugger! That's a new one on me
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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10 February 2015, 21:50
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nugent
If I had fitted this I would say its needs lifting 1 hole,,
But surely ribcraft no there set up with this engine better than any one,,
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i never bought it new so i can't comment on how it exactly left RC factory, it isn't that old though (18 months or so) so i assume it is pretty much how it left.
i'm sure it needs raised personally, i'm just looking for others with more experience and their opinion before i throw 100 notes plus away to have it done.
cheers
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10 February 2015, 22:07
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Does it lean to port all the time, if you are trimmed right out etc?
Sent from my iPad using my finger
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I was born not knowing and have had only a little time to change that here and there.
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10 February 2015, 23:07
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Further out it is trimmed the better it is. I have never trimmed it out to the max if you like but it is certainly much better.
As I said, I cheated and turned the trim anode and that made quite a difference already.
I will probably raise it a hole and go from there.
Cheers
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11 February 2015, 10:32
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#15
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: Impulse
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D
the engine is offset probably in the region of 1-2", it came from ribcraft this way so i assume it is enough.
not the best pics but you get idea.
Pikey...no slots buddy so outboard shop it is i guess.
cheers
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I'm not sure if it is a poor picture but it looks like you have two slots below the bolts on the top bracket so you can lift the engine up?
Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net
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11 February 2015, 10:58
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Portsmouth(ish)
Boat name: Wings
Make: Ribeye
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha F115 AETL
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D
As I said, I cheated and turned the trim anode and that made quite a difference already.
Cheers
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The trim anode is supposed to be used to offset the natural "turn" generated by the prop, so it's not cheating as such. A right hand (standard) prop will try to push the skeg to port, so set the anode slightly to port to bring the skeg back to centre. It can take a bit of playing, but mine is set 2 notches to port (the notches are at the rear of the anode) to centre my RH prop.
But I think lifting the engine may also help if this doesn't do anything. The anode is an easier "fix" if it works! Good luck.
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There's weather out there - must be time to RIB!
(Or dive, or ref rugby, or.......)
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06 March 2015, 12:56
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#17
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Spammer
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
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Boat and therefore engine will rise at speed. By looking at your picture my guess is your cavitation plate's too high. Check your Owners manuals (boat and motor) to see how deep the cavitation plate is spec'd below bottom-centre of transom.
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07 March 2015, 02:43
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Have you checked that you haven't got a lot of trapped water in the hull on one side causing the boat to lean to port?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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07 March 2015, 03:20
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Yeah no water anywhere.
It is going in to get the outboard raised soon.
Cheers
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07 March 2015, 06:31
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leeds
Make: Valiant 450
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 55HP
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 448
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Big engine - light boat. Always a good chance of it leaning.
1) use a genuine suzuki prop to attain the correct max RPM. To big a pitch will cause a lean.
2) Check weight distribution. Usually a red herring but worth a check.
3) Raise the engine one inch/hole. Manufacturers recommend a set up of 1 inch above to one below bottom of hull. Most people set level.
4) I'm not a fan of raising two holes as the top cylinder may get starved of cooling water. Then bang it goes. Not always but I've seen it happen.
5) Offset the engine 1 inch to Starboard.
6) Does the boat seem at full pelt as if it is "walking" along the water? You will feel it through the wheel as a wobble in clam conditions. This means the hull is maxed out on power. This is when a larger pitch prop may help. Or a smaller engine.
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