Trim motor removal? Yam 4stroke

[acraw]

Hi all
As you can see from my picture the trim motor on my 50hp Yamaha 4 stroke had lost its paint and I’ve been avoiding it for years.
I plan to remove it and repaint it.
However the service manual is not totally clear, if I remove the Allen key bolts, do I have to drain the hydraulic fluid in advance?
Also any idea how I find out the paint colour as there are a few listed?
Thanks

[neil.mccrirrick]

If your trimmed up, which you will have to be there is no pressure in the system. Loosen the fill cap? You madly lose some fluid then but it won’t be much and then take the motor off.

Once you put it back on top the fluid up. You may need to bleed the system

[Davie]

You would be better taking the wires off at the relay and knocking out the pins at top and bottom and get complete unit on the bench to paint it. Getting the oring to seal again on that may prove to be a problem. The paint code is yamaha bluish grey.

[spartacus]

Wow, that trim motor outer casing is toast.

[matt h]

Dont bother. Its likely past it on the inside the corrosion will push out the Magnets and jam up the Rotor or Armature.

Replace the Motor OEM or After Market.

If you do try and refurb it you will likely find the magnets have already started lifting and become unglued from the casing.

[Swifty]

It's only the casing that rusts. The motor is moulded in plastic beneath the steel cover and if it's working, will be fine. Do not open up the internals without chocking the leg up.

I did remove the trim assembly complete a while ago, trim it up and chock the engine. Remove the motor leads from the cowling and disconnect the anode straps. Remove (from memory) two circlips on the bottom bar and one in the top bar. Drive top bar in to release the top of the ram from saddle. Hinge the ram/pump assembly down and drive out the bottom bar whilst catching all the nylon spacers.

Tim.

[acraw]

Originally Posted by Swifty

It's only the casing that rusts. The motor is moulded in plastic beneath the steel cover and if it's working, will be fine. Do not open up the internals without chocking the leg up.

I did remove the trim assembly complete a while ago, trim it up and chock the engine. Remove the motor leads from the cowling and disconnect the anode straps. Remove (from memory) two circlips on the bottom bar and one in the top bar. Drive top bar in to release the top of the ram from saddle. Hinge the ram/pump assembly down and drive out the bottom bar whilst catching all the nylon spacers.

Tim.

Thanks this is what I thought.
Just to be clear when we say chock the engine, we mean the stands built in?

[matt h]

It's only the casing that rusts. The motor is moulded in plastic beneath the steel cover

Wrong!

The rusted casing is the motor its self and that looks shot. It may soldier on but will fail when you really dont need it to.

Do the job right first time and replace motor