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02 May 2024, 21:09
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Boat name: Sunday Best
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yammy 90
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 409
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Trim motor screw removal
Hey all,
Was trying to replace a trim motor earlier on a e-etc 60 but the Phillips screws were tight as hell and I was petrified to snap one or round it off. Just wondering if there's a knack to getting them out? Other than chipping the paint off. Not sure if I'd be able to get in with an impact driver or not?
They should be capheads in my opinion - terrible design!
Cheers
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02 May 2024, 23:19
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,004
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[QUOTE=SimonCh;872981]Hey all,
Was trying to replace a trim motor earlier on a e-etc 60 but the Phillips screws were tight as hell and I was petrified to snap one or round it off. Just wondering if there's a knack to getting them out? Other than chipping the paint off. Not sure if I'd be able to get in with an impact driver or not?
Looking at that your going to need a new motor at least. Best option is pick out the paint and tap in a philips bit, be quite aggressive tapping it in to help break the corrosion seal & try to turn it out using a 1/4 ratchet with an appropriate size socket to fit the screwdriver bit will help where access is tight
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02 May 2024, 23:27
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#3
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Member
Country: Ireland
Boat name: 380S
Make: Yamaha
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF15
Join Date: Jun 2023
Posts: 422
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I'd heat up the bases with a blow torch first or even a heat gun if you're stuck and then try to muscle it. You could try a vice grips if the Philips head gets rounded but the heat should help it come out without too much fighting.
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02 May 2024, 23:33
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Redneck
Make: Excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20 efi & 9.8 2s
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 3,473
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Hi Simon, agree with Ken about chipping out the paint, but I would use a long steel shanked Phillips screwdriver (the type where the shank goes right through the handle) and tap the screw head through the screwdriver and, as Ken said, quite sharply. This should break the corrosion which is holding the screw solid. Personally I wouldn't use an impact driver, it could be to aggressive and snap the screw. A bit of heat and WD40 may help.
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03 May 2024, 03:31
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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Hate these jobs, you always get one bolt/screw that's even more difficult. All of the above clean /tap/heat and I find that combining the screwdriver with a decent set of mole grips (not the sloppy worn cheap set with no ridges at the business end) and applying both at the same time can often result in a positive result . Fingers crossed.
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03 May 2024, 09:09
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,647
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Agree, terrible design. Get a rotary wire wheel brush (drill attachment), and prepare the screw heads. Heat will help, plus liberal dose of PlusGas penetrating release.
You need the Philips bit attachment to sit absolutely snug, and as mentioned a couple of hammer blows. Numerous attempts and it could rounded off. I'm assuming those screws are stainless? If not and they round off or shear, then you're looking at drilling them out, although space is tight as a gnat's chuff. I've had plenty of luck with stud extractors if you can get a decent pilot hole on it and use extractor that's not going to break.
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03 May 2024, 17:26
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brum
Boat name: UTV
Make: Bombard Aerotec
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke 25hp
MMSI: 235933026
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 736
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Clean the paint off, release oil over night then hit the head of fixing with a copper mallet, I rest the copper on the fixing and hit other side of copper mallet with another hammer, stick some heat on it( wipe the release oil off first)
Use the biggest bit that fits and put as much pressure on it and turn the shaft of the bit with a spanner or better still stick the bit in a socket rachet and turn with that, if it doesn’t move don't let it twist out of the fixing, just repeat the process above , release oil, hammer, heat.
When it starts to move go back, tighten it a bit and then undo in small turns going clockwise and then anticlockwise.
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Big waves, small boat ;)
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04 May 2024, 08:04
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,103
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Of all the tools and means I have used, this is hands down the best at removing stuck screws. Not to say heat, and other methods aren't excellent, the impact driver has higher success and tends not to strip the screw head. Even striped heads can often be removed.
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Impa...er-Set/208EPIT
For lack of reason to buy tool in link above, a small torch, some penetrating oil, and maybe just a Snap-on screwdriver as they have a place to put wrenches onto to them.
Never leave home without your Vise-grips. They can often grab onto the screw to assist with the screwdriver, or just get the job done.
Broken screws are tedious, but not a big deal with quality drill bits, and extractors if used. The last thing you want to do is break an extractor bit inside, or now you have a harder metal problem. Drilling on center is very important. Sometimes you wind up picking the remaining bolt threads out of the tapped hole.
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04 May 2024, 11:43
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Kent
Boat name: ever dry
Make: Elling KB350
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yamaha 15hp 2 stroke
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 630
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For those who don't want to spend eye watering amounts on removing 1 screw.
You could use this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C3393T4D/
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05 May 2024, 02:05
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldman2
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A good quality bit is the most important part as a quality hardened bit won't strip the screw. Wiha, Snap-on, Wera, etc are worth every penny, and even they break often enough to require having spares. Not sure about others, but Snap-on is a lifetime warranty.
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