Twin tiller set-up

chewy · 02 December 2009, 10:52

How would I set up twin engines using tillers. I need one tiller to control both engines.
I know the old C-class ILB's used them but can't see much info on the rig?

9D280 · 02 December 2009, 12:16

I believe you ate looking for a TEST rig. (Twin Engine Single Tiller)

Essentially boils down to a modern-ish tiller (with gear lever on the tller as opposed to the side of the engine) with an extra couple of connections to take 2 short bowden cables to the other engine. Does exactly what it says on the tin - Both engines engage gears & throttle simultaneously. Steering achieved with a standard link bar. as you would with a remote steering.

I should add I've never seen one of these things in real liffe, only a pic in a book.

Babckocks I suspect may be a good place to start for a secondhand one? Barrus might help with new, as I believe they are (were?) designed for Mariner 40s.

mdt · 02 December 2009, 12:27

what is the advantage to this?

I would think that a tiller is only normally of any use and or benefit on a smaller boat.
A single tiller to control two engines would remove the advantage of a normal twin set up of being able to work one engine independently of one an other.
The weight of 2 engines and a helm all sat at he back would I think make for a very light bow?

You say you need this set up, go on spill the beans old bean and let us in on the secret?

9D280 · 02 December 2009, 13:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdt

what is the advantage to this?

What would you rather carry- a 20 or a 40 Hp?

Think its the chaps in the forces that use it most for portability. I believe you can go form "back of a landy" to redy to go in under 5 mins.

chewy · 02 December 2009, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

What would you rather carry- a 20 or a 40 Hp?

Think its the chaps in the forces that use it most for portability. I believe you can go form "back of a landy" to redy to go in under 5 mins.

Hit the nail on the head, right down to the Land Rover.
The SIB will be stored deflated and I don't fancy lugging one big engine about hence twin 25hp's.

m chappelow · 02 December 2009, 13:48

how ya doing chewy ,,with the old C class s.i.b it was it was just a metal bar that was bolted to the front of the engines , simply linking them both together fixing to where the hole goes for remotes on the front handle part of the engine ,for the gear lever side of things and throttle it was another crew man that operated the other engine when needed or it was on some , may have been why they had lead ballast weights in the bow . apparently you can still tell a lifeboatman who was a helmsman on a C class ,they have arms ,, just like popeye ,s

Nasher · 02 December 2009, 20:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by chewy

The SIB will be stored deflated and I don't fancy lugging one big engine about hence twin 25hp's.

In that case anything that connects both engines will also need to be very quickly detachable from at least one of them to move the engines about seperately.

Some motorcycles used to come with throttle cables that had a splitter box half way along to operate two carbs, that could be a good starting point to make something yourself.

Nasher

chewy · 02 December 2009, 20:54

I don't mind having a normal tie bar with a couple of bolts. Would rather have something solid for an extra ten minutes work.

Nasher · 02 December 2009, 21:16

Chewy

Are you sure it's really worth it?

You'll get the same performance from 1 x 40HP (or even 35HP) use a lot less fuel, and be carrying less weight around in total.

Most twin cylinder 40HPs are hardly any bigger than a 25HP anyway, and if you add in the mucking about connecting up steering, throttle and gear cables every time I think I'd rather carry a slightly heavier 40HP.

Just my opinion of course.

Nasher.

chewy · 02 December 2009, 21:27

I can carry the 25hp on my own but not a 40hp.
It would only be the steering and throttles I need to do.
I'll see how it goes with the 25hp.
Someone mentioned on another thread you just need a larger injector to get 30hp, anyone know a part number or where to get one?

9D280 · 03 December 2009, 08:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by chewy

Someone mentioned on another thread you just need a larger injector to get 30hp, anyone know a part number or where to get one?

That will depend on the make & model of your 25. I have successfully upped a 25 to 30 with a change of throttle link cam. I've also seen posts by Loco-z that essentially mean you are not far off a total rebuild where the bits you keep are not much more than the block & leg (- er I mean driveshaft housing at risk of starting that sub-thread again!

)

Do you actually mean injector? I ask because that would imply 4- stroke, which in turn means added lardyness. As Nasher says, if you get an old premix twin pot it will be substantially lighter. Have a look at http://www.old-omc.de/j_1977/seite_29.jpg ('77 Johnson Catalouge) - The 35Hp short shaft (I assume you'd have that for a SIB) is all of 114 Lbs - call it 51Kg. My 3-pot Suz DT25 was 15 years younger and nearer the 70Kg mark...

The twin system for the forces I think is used on twin 40s - so you get a portable 80Hp rig.

chewy · 03 December 2009, 08:58

Meant jet, sorry.

9D280 · 03 December 2009, 09:31

Thought you might. My commets in the first paragraph still apply!

chewy · 03 December 2009, 10:54

25hp it is then.

Turbodiesel · 11 December 2009, 21:58

Yeah, we do a TEST kit for the twin 25/30hp, its a lot of modification to make it all work and probably pretty expensive!!
2nd hand ones are very hard to come by but we can also get you a new one!.

Turbodiesel · 11 December 2009, 22:01

Here is a picture for you, these are the old model 25hp 2 strokes, but we do it for the new 25/30 as well now.

chewy · 11 December 2009, 22:31

Looks good but I bet it costs more than the engine and boat.