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14 February 2010, 12:48
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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URGENT - can anyone help PLEASE!
Opti 150 running fine for mosty of the morning, then smartcraft warning saying Check engine...then Battery IIRC....comes when dropping revs quickly or when using trim /tilt....
The battery scale comes up showing 8v on the 18v max scale. Started as an Intermitent problem....also sometimes asks you to reduce throttle...then clears.
Assume??? this is the alternator failing? Can ayone confirm?
Further, I am really struggling as I am due out Tues, Weds, Thurs, Fri with the boat....would be a MAJOR problem if I missed these dates, so need to sort today /tomorrow.
If it is alternator - does anyone have a new one in stock /know where i could begin looking and which I could get hold of tomorrow (I'm in West wales but willing to travel)....further, would be prepared to borrow a second hand one if anyone wasn't using their outboard....would replace with a brand new one and pay for the inconvenience etc.....PLEASE CAN ANYONE HELP?
Dan
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14 February 2010, 12:55
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: glasgow
Boat name: arriba
Make: marlin
Length: 7m +
Engine: suzuki 300
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 315
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had opti 200
roughly same warning engine stuttering then it would clear made it home ok it was caused by a nick in the trim sensor cable at the outboard shorting with salt water and wave action
a very cheap repair
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never miss an opportunity
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14 February 2010, 13:07
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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Thanks Doug.....will run through and check, BUT engine not stuttering....running okay (obviously buzzer sounds /asks me to throttle down sometimes).
ANY ONE ELSE????
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14 February 2010, 13:12
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Surrey
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 215
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Dan . OFF THE ALTERNATOR you will SEE a RED WIRe going onto the starter solenoid . this is a THICK gauge wire and on this wire is a FUSE . OK if this FUSE is blown this will give you these symptons definetly . OK you need to check you have continuity between this alternator and the solenoid / If NO continuity your fuse is BLOWN AND you will need to replace this with a new wire as the fuse is built in . Hope this makes sense
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14 February 2010, 17:51
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outboardtech
Dan . OFF THE ALTERNATOR you will SEE a RED WIRe going onto the starter solenoid . this is a THICK gauge wire and on this wire is a FUSE . OK if this FUSE is blown this will give you these symptons definetly . OK you need to check you have continuity between this alternator and the solenoid / If NO continuity your fuse is BLOWN AND you will need to replace this with a new wire as the fuse is built in . Hope this makes sense
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Hi OBtech....many thanks for this. I will check the fused line tomorrow am...have just had to give in due to light etc....sorry hadn't picked up your mail earlier.
If it is the fuse, can I make one up myself using the cable and a suitable fuse froma motor factors (for now)....do you know what the fuse is rated to by any chance?
Further, any ideas what might have caused it? The voltage on the smartcraft currently fluctuates between 10.9 and 11.9 ish....not sure if that is correct /indicates the same /an alternator problem. I have a twin battery set up and run it on 'both' could I have froed something? I can't get the problem to show on muffs...
Sorry for all the questions...am pulling my hair out.
Dan
Sorry....meant to say THANK YOU!
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14 February 2010, 18:07
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,920
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Dan
Sorry to hear about your problems and unfortunately I can't help you myself.
However Pete7 on here knows of a guy who's an opti specialist and I believe carries used spares etc.
Try a PM to Pete as he doesn't spend so much time on here any more, but does still answer his PMs.
Nasher.
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14 February 2010, 18:09
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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If it is the alternator, you can borrow mine - let me know
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14 February 2010, 18:14
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Boat name: Worth the wait
Make: Parker
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,446
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Pete & I use Simon at Ribs Marine in Christchurch. A real wizz with Opti's
Phone 01202 477327
Hope it gets better soon
Steve
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14 February 2010, 18:59
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Surrey
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 215
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Dan , make sure you have the CORRECT batteries and they are FULLY CHARGED , I have seen alot of FAULT'S especially on the Opti's and Im sure ALOT of other experienced Tech's WILL agree with me that the correct battery are used on these engine's . These are battery rating 1000 ( Minimum ) Marine Cranking Amps ( MCA ) & 750 ( Minimum ) Cold cranking Amps ( CCA ) . Make sure you have fully charged batteries . Low VOLTAGE will drop the 5V sensor circuits and you will have all sort's of problem' s . OK STEP 2 . If you know you have good batteries you need to check the battery voltage coming off the alternator , VERY EASY , Positive lead of your DC meter onto the alternator output red wire and black metre lead to a good engine earth . You should get a reading around 12.8v to 15 v . If this is good , your alternator is GOOD ,then do the same on your cranking battery . As i said I have had alot of probs with the charging circuit on these Opti's and really 95% of the fault found have been BAD BATTERIES . Result's thks
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14 February 2010, 19:42
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warwickshire
Boat name: True Blue
Make: Humber ocean pro 6.3
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 150 opti
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Worth
do you know what the fuse is rated to by any chance?
Further, any ideas what might have caused it?
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Fuse rateing is 100amp and it's normally a new cable with fuse fitted (not cheap)
Another cause to blowing this fuse could be, if you accidentally put the battery cables on the wrong way.
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14 February 2010, 20:35
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: CONWY/CORFU
Boat name: The Full Morty II
Make: Air Craft/Shakespere
Length: 8m +
Engine: Etec 300hp/Etec150hp
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 603
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Had something like this many years ago on a Johnson, it was the battery isolator switch which gave in ....causing the engine electrics to go on fire
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14 February 2010, 23:52
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Rogue Wave has 3 Opti 150s in bits in our boat shed, so I am sure he can help you out.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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15 February 2010, 13:54
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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Progress so far
Guys, thanks for all your responses....always appreciated!
Nasher, thanks for the lead mate, will drop a Pete a PM if I get stuck...250kts ditto
Brad...you are a star, may give you a shout pending below...
Ian...thanks for you advice this morning. have just ordered a pair of Optima Blue Tops...arrive tomorrow.
Chris, will give RW a shout for any parts....cheers
GED...think the system is okay...but cheers for the heads up
Anyone else i've forgotten...thanks!
OB tech....have checked for continuity in the fused line all good (one thing ticked off)
Have only 11.9 volts from the alternator at tickover on muffs...NOT ENOUGH?? Guess the alternator is finished? Can ayone confirm? Also only have 11.7 /11.9 at the battery when running.
Incidentally, tried starting the engine on each battery individually...won't start /beeps.
Lazily starts on 'Both'.
Thankfully, the charter has been delayed (due to illness)...so have a short breathing space...needs to be ready by Thursday so rush still on!
Any further assitance re the above appreciated....will start lookinbg for an alternator and see if i can get one here tomorrow /Weds (unless anyone can advise otherwise). The batteries will also put my mind at rest (albeit an expensive way to do it).
Dan
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15 February 2010, 14:27
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Volts are to low. Going to be either the alternator, the wiring to the battery or the battery and my money is on the battery. How old is the battery? never managed much more than 3 years on a rib so change if in doubt. Possibly a duff contact on the battery or engine terminals which need cleaning up or possibly the alternator terminals.
With a new battery of at least 100 amps although I had a pair of 120 amp batteries for my Opti, if the problem goes away you are on the right track. Then test the batteries with the engine running and the volts should be higher than the battery with the engine off. If so problem over. If no change when engine running then its the alternator.
Pete
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15 February 2010, 17:35
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Surrey
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 215
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I totally 110 percent AGREE with Pete . It will be Your batteries , OPTI's don't like low Voltage at all . Good luck .
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15 February 2010, 17:36
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
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Had similar problems on my opti ( without the rough running) due to the boat being swamped just prior to me buying it, Water in the main cables to the engine caused them over time ( about 6 months) to corrode along with the switch.
Ended up chopping back about 2 ft to get to good wire - stuck new batteries on at the same time to be sure & new switch. No problem since then. Took RIBS marine about an hour to do it.
Try cutting back an inch at a time of the cables at the battery to see if they are corroded - if yes , either keep cutting until they are good/you run out of cable or just change them. Possibly cheaper & quicker than a new alternator to find its still not right ?
Is it possible low volts would mean the fuel system not running correctly to give the bad running ( I may have read that on a US engine site or here...)
Pete
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15 February 2010, 18:37
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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I had similar problem as outlined by PeterM with my 150 Mariner hellish to start took an age. Found out it was the cables running under the deck in tube from bats to engine and back of course!! Renewed all the doings and has started and ran great ever since. You need good bats plus you have to be sure all the juice is getting to the solenoid as they do not like 'weak' power.
Good luck
J
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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16 February 2010, 15:13
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N. Pembrokeshire
Boat name: Various
Make: RIBs & Hovercraft
Length: 9m +
Engine: Outboards
MMSI: Various
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,358
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Todays progress
Okay....
Fitted the new Optima blu tops today.....
Cranks (turns over and fires a LOT quicker /with more urgency). BUT....
When you turn the ignition on the smartcraft shows 12.4v...the voltmeter shows similar across the battery....they are good (obvious i know, but just to avoid doubt).
When running, the alternator shows the same 11.4 to 11.9v regardless of speed of engine (on voltmeter and smartcraft).
So, checked the battery cables (cut back and reattached...seem okay, no obvious corrossion). Am going to discount these for now.
Bipassed the battery switch and connected the engine directly to one of the Optimas...the same 11.4 to 11.9v reading at the alternator and 12v plus at the battery when running.
Based on this am I correct in assuming that it is MOST LIKELY a dodgy alternator? That is my conclusion, can anyone advise differently?
Thanks in anticipation...
D.
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16 February 2010, 19:26
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Sounds like a very pooly alternator.
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16 February 2010, 22:00
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Dan, buy a new one, then slow time send the old one off for reconditioning and keep it as a spare. They are not a particularly weak item on the Opti 150, but a spare ready to go would be good if you are opperating a charter boat.
Rogue wave often used my Opti as a spares pack , never actually knew how many injectors I would have on any given day when I turned up to use it
Pete
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