Used outboard spares

[Fenlander]

Yes I've used the oven/freezer trick many times. In truth were it me I'd buy a new bearing and cut the old one off to avoid shaft damage when removing. Reason being you can't achieve the same heat differential on removal and even the slightest scores or distortion on the shaft will stop the new one dropping on easily... and with heat differential indeed it may well just drop on without any more than hand pressure.

[jeffstevens763@g]

If you weld on the inner it will break and free off assuming you can get at it

[Yabadabadoo]

Ok so good news and not so good news.

Good news is that instead of the bearing sliding all the way up the drive shaft, by gently clamping the bottom ‘collar’ of the drive shaft I gave a few taps to the bottom of the drive shaft and the collar comes off.

The tube above that slides off and the bearing is persuaded off with a little heat, no scratches or damage to splines or shaft.

It’s a few days later and I’m still cursing.

I didn’t mark the splines where the lower collar should stop, the short shaft drive shaft is back together with the newer bearing but fitting that into the gearbox leaves a 4-5mm gap between water pump base and gear housing.

I could adjust the bearing down the drive shaft to close that gap but don’t know if the drive shaft should be ‘touching’ or sitting on what is below it, or, a mil or so above.

I suspect the latter but online pdfs don’t give that detail and it’s a real favour to ring up an outboard mechanic and try explain what I’m doing.

The distance I’m looking for is marked A on the drive shaft section of the screenshot attached.



Can only think someone who’s offended stripped and rebuilt would know the answer - not sure who to ring for an answer