Used outboard spares

[Yabadabadoo]

Morning all I’m looking for a used gearbox for a friends 4hp Mariner (4s/ss)

Not doing very well so thought I’d see if someone knows of a person or business that might have outboard used parts. I need that guy in a shed with thousands of used engines around him [emoji2]

So far only found Cambridge Outboard’s who were sort of helpful but also quite grumpy and vague. My daily trawl of Facebook/eBay/gumtree is not producing.

[Fenlander]

>>>Cambridge Outboard’s who were sort of helpful but also quite grumpy and vague.

Even if you forgive their extensive negative past they are very odd these days in being helpful to the point it suits them but off if pushed or challenged.

Did that water pump area prove impossible to get sealed?

[Yabadabadoo]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

>>>very odd these days in being helpful to the point it suits them but off if pushed or challenged.

Did that water pump area prove impossible to get sealed?

This is v accurate - sold me spares/service parts for £100.00 including postage which I thought was punchy - included a water intake pipe/power head gasket - but bit the bullet as thought that would see the outboard right.

I could spend my money with them but the near rudeness/off hand too busy to talk nature just makes me sit it out.

Prop doesn’t freely spin in gearbox has to be turned to move around. Lower water pump plate/housing is juuuust too far corroded to not put pressure on a gasket even with a good dollop of sealant.

Cambridge Outboard ‘might, probably, maybe’ have one in stock for £200.00 must be another outfit out their like them. I’ll keep looking

[TmMorris]

I've just rebuilt the bottom leg of my Mariner 15hp (Yamaha generation) and BHG Marine supplied me with all the original parts, including the plate and bearing for the water pump. The previous owner must have used the engine without anodes for some time, with water left in while the boat was hanging on davits.

So long as the gearbox is OK and the housing undamaged then it can be sorted if you can get the parts.

I'll dig out the link to the thread I ran on here.

[TmMorris]

https://www.rib.net/forum/f36/stuck-bolts-on-yam-15-2stroke-86074.html

Parts from https://www.bhg-marine.co.uk/ who couldn't have been more helpful and pleasant to deal with.

[Yabadabadoo]

Thanks for the link, looks like I’m at that stage and could replace those parts.

However the gearbox itself doesn’t feel smooth to turn so I’m expecting some rust to gears further down.

Might be worth taking it apart further to see what parts if I chose that route

[TmMorris]

The gearboxes seem able to take quite a pounding. I guess it depends how many hours it ran with emulsified oil but it has to be worth pulling it apart, washing and seeing how smoothly it turns with any old engine oil in there?

Even if the cogs are rusty I guess it depends how deep the rust is?

[phantom 19]

Yamaha F4A uses same gearbox housing and are usually better condition as newer. Drive shaft and gearshift shaft are different but not exactly hard to change.

Internally the clutch is different but if kept together with the F4A gears it is fine.

[Yabadabadoo]

Originally Posted by phantom 19

Yamaha F4A uses same gearbox housing and are usually better condition as newer. Drive shaft and gearshift shaft are different but not exactly hard to change.

Internally the clutch is different but if kept together with the F4A gears it is fine.

Good intell!

[phantom 19]

Originally Posted by phantom 19

Yamaha F4A uses same gearbox housing and are usually better condition as newer. Drive shaft and gearshift shaft are different but not exactly hard to change.

Internally the clutch is different but if kept together with the F4A gears it is fine.

Sorry I didn’t see the 4s of the original poster. The Yamaha F4A gearbox is only a replacement for the Yamaha manufactured two stroke Mariner, which normally fail from corrosion issues

[TmMorris]

Are later smaller Mariners actually Tohatsus like Mercury's are? Would that widen the availability of a whole lower leg?

I'd still pull the gearbox apart just to establish whether there is a serious issue first.

[Yabadabadoo]

Bit of an update in that I found a used gearbox for long shaft and in process of swapping over to short shaft gear selector and drive shaft.

Short drive shaft has a rusty and pitted bearing on it which Id like to swap for better condition fitted on long shaft.

Am I on the right tracks of heating up the bearing to remove it, both move a little with wood drift against flat surface of vice jaws but it doesn’t feel right. How do they fit them on!



Great online Service Manual for 4,5,6hp Four Stroke Mariners /Mercury’s here
http://elrincondepitagoras.es/PAGINA...e%20Manual.pdf

[Fenlander]

Is it bearing 13 you are trying to drive off shaft 12? I've never had to do that but would assume it's just a case of even pressure drifting against the inner part of the bearing. Ideally using a long tube that fitted over the shaft and pressed against the inner part of the bearing but such a thing not always to hand.

Just be wary there is no clip fixing bearing to shaft. I'm wondering what fixes the bearing position?

Hopefully someone will be along who has done this.

[Yabadabadoo]

Yes lucky number 13! [emoji85]

I think the bearing in its entirety fits over the drive shaft - it’s a long way to go three times with a drift. So far have managed little (5-10mm) or no movement and a dent in the wood.

Will add a photo in a bit

[TmMorris]

Do you mean the collar that sits on the shaft?

I can easily imagine that would be a bugger to remove assuming it's a pressure/friction fit.

I think I would find a very large nut that would just fit over the shaft and sit snuggly on the collar and then a length of thick steel tube that would go over the shaft and sit nicely on the nut, then place the shaft on a solid bit of wood on hard ground and start whacking the steel tube down with a 2lb or 4lb mallet? A bit of heat probably wouldn't hurt.

To be honest, though, my thought would be that the collar would be a bigger to get off, twice and back on once and so I would instead take both shafts to a machine shop and ask them to cut and weld the longer one down to match in the exact way they shorten car drive shafts. I'm assuming that the extra length is in the upper section between this collar and the splines?

I guess there is no harm in at least attempting to remove the pitted collar from the old shaft just to establish how feasible a home fix is?

Also, just how bad is the pitting as the collars are reasonably long and there are usually a pair of seals above the brass housing below the water pump face so it would need to be really quite bad for it to be an issue of not holding the shaft in a perfectly central location?

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by Yabadabadoo

Yes lucky number 13! [emoji85]

I think the bearing in its entirety fits over the drive shaft - it’s a long way to go three times with a drift. So far have managed little (5-10mm) or no movement and a dent in the wood.

Will add a photo in a bit

No expert but a motorcycle enthusiast friend always swears by a method using oven to freezer or similar ,not sure how well it would work on your scenario ,but supect it depends on difference of materials or maybe just heat retention of different volumes , maybe worth a google ?

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by Orwell boy

No expert but a motorcycle enthusiast friend always swears by a method using oven to freezer or similar ,not sure how well it would work on your scenario ,but supect it depends on difference of materials or maybe just heat retention of different volumes , maybe worth a google ?

Sorry ,having a rethink this method is for refitting not removing , shaft in freezer and brg in oven ,should drop straight on

[Oldman2]

Local "proper" garage and get them to press it off in their hydraulic press, take the other parts and get them to press it back on too.

[Fenlander]

What determines the bearing posn on the shaft... just a measurement... or a clip/step etc?

[Yabadabadoo]

Do like the freezer idea, less aggressive than heat. Will try those first.

Have dreamt up a home made press with threaded bar, flat bars etc.

Thanks for the replies / ideas