Used Tohatsu 9.8 2-stroke on Ebay

[Fenlander]

Been loads of chat recently about where to find these motors and one has just popped up on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303930233495?ul_noapp=true

Pretty poor single photo/listing but price is good at £1050 with offers accepted. Last legally sold style probably 2004-2007. London area.

Usual care needed re not paying any online deposit but could be worth checking out.

Edit: Just looking again the cowl logo style is different and I think not earlier than the one usually seen up to 2007... so could actually be a bit newer??

Edit 2: Done a bit more checking out online and I reckon this motor (or just its cowl?) could be in the region of a 2012 onwards. Guy said he bought it 5yrs ago... maybe had it from new??

[willk]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Edit 2: Done a bit more checking out online and I reckon this motor (or just its cowl?) could be in the region of a 2012 onwards. Guy said he bought it 5yrs ago... maybe had it from new??

Would ya wheest! The Emissions Morality Police will be along in a mo...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqLgU4wK1ZE

[Fenlander]

I know, the moral dilemma in posting and possibly encouraging such transgression has stressed me all morning... but as they say never shoot the messenger.

[Fenlander]

Well that didn't take long... listing now ended. Hope someone on here got it.

[Ribtecer]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tohatsu-9...8-a5a20e067337

Relisted with 9 photos.

No where near as nice as mine. Lovely engines

[Fenlander]

Oh shame it's been let go a bit under the cowl... and unless they had two different cowls fitted at random from the factory that one looks 6yrs newer than the outboard. Mind you at least it's a legal motor and Willk will be able to sleep at night.

Despite the under-cowl external corrosion if it started OK from cold and pumped water I'd give it a punt at that money.

[Big Al C]

Spotted it last night.... but very little in way of a wright up. The newer/ latest style decals on the hood had me thinking it was a far newer outboard. But with only one picture and lack of description decided not to press the buy now button.
Will stick with the 2004 one I purchase last month from a seller on here... sorry Fenlander.

[Fenlander]

Big Al you are very welcome... and that situation prompted me to have the most intensive phone round the dealers telling them I'd swap all my gold for a mint used 9.8... eventually it paid off so I'm sorted too now.

[Fenlander]

See the Ebay listing has finished again... hopefully sold to someone on here so we can hear how it turns out.

[Rjefferis]

Hi all, it was me :-)

Bought it both times, to go on my 3.2 Sunsport

Lovely chap actually, I bought it outright on the first listing as the 'stock' photo he used was obviously a bit better than real life. As such he actually cancelled and refunded as he was worried I would be unhappy when collecting as he hadn't had a chance to put the real photos up.

Anyway re-offered a little lower when it was relisted.

Started first time from cold and seemed to run ok.

As per photos bit of rust dotted around which is a shame.

Can anyone recommend anyone in Milton Keynes / surrounding area that could give it a full service and regrease? Or should I just tackle myself?

Don't wan't to get to Salcombe in August having left the 6hp at home and find there are problems

Thanks all!

[Fenlander]

Ahh well done. Despite the slight negative visually of the under cowl tatty bits a clean down and bit of carefully targeted spray can work will soon get it looking loads better.

First time starter a very good indication.

So easy to service I'd DIY it... I can give you a to-do list and talk you through it on here if you want.

[Rjefferis]

Cheers Fenlander that would be awesome if you dont mind

Thanks so much

Rob

[Fenlander]

I wonder if you received a user manual with the Tohatsu as they are pretty good for the routine stuff.

Anyway with a new to me outboard from a private sale with (I assume in your case?) no history I tend to go through every item on the biggest service but adding in a bit of common sense. So...

Engine fuel filter: Small one just under the carb. Pop off and see if any debris or water droplets are in the inlet side. If it seems totally clean can be left in otherwise replace.

Tank fuel filter: Assuming the OE Tohatsu tank unscrew the outlet spigot and check pickup filter. Wash clean if needed.

Fuel line and primer: Check for tight clips and any damage.

Spark plugs: Remove and inspect. If anything other than A1 condition replace and buy a second set to carry for spares. Use NGK BPR7HS-10 with 1.0mm gap.

Ign timing: This is rarely altered and rarely wrong so if engine runs well leave as is.

Carb: Drain fuel from float bowl. If any signs of debris or water I'd have the carb off and dismantle spraying through with carb cleaner. Assemble only with new gaskets not any kind of sealant. With a warm engine check idle speed (use a £7 Ebay tach) and set mixture/speed if needed. 950rpm in neutral and at least 750rpm in forward gear prop in water. Mixture screw setting two turns out from lightly seated (plus/minus quarter turn).

Recoil starter pull cord: Check for chafing.

Prop: Remove and check for damage. Never file to smooth. Hammer out any small defects (against a block) or pro repair/replace if bad. Refit with greased splines. Torque 12Nm. New split pin.

Gear oil: Drain and replace looking for water ingress or metal filings. Always use new washers/seals.

Water pump: Drop gearbox and replace impellor.

Nuts, bolts, fixings: Look them over and check for tightness.

Grease points and other moving parts: Lubricate all round. Don't forget tilt mechanism which is often overlooked.

Anode: Check and replace if 25% or more material loss.

I think that's about the lot. As I said earlier there isn't that much to do and these engines are so easy to work on.

[Searider]

Just tried to buy one of these for our workboat and told no UK stock :-(

[Donie]

Great engines, I bought one two years ago and it’s been great on a 2.9m aluminium hull rib. In total the boat, engine and fuel tank weighs around 90-95kg so perfect for the 100kg rated davits on my cruiser.
Great list of maintenance items Fenlander. Thanks

[Rjefferis]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I wonder if you received a user manual with the Tohatsu as they are pretty good for the routine stuff.

Anyway with a new to me outboard from a private sale with (I assume in your case?) no history I tend to go through every item on the biggest service but adding in a bit of common sense. So...

Engine fuel filter: Small one just under the carb. Pop off and see if any debris or water droplets are in the inlet side. If it seems totally clean can be left in otherwise replace.

Tank fuel filter: Assuming the OE Tohatsu tank unscrew the outlet spigot and check pickup filter. Wash clean if needed.

Fuel line and primer: Check for tight clips and any damage.

Spark plugs: Remove and inspect. If anything other than A1 condition replace and buy a second set to carry for spares. Use NGK BPR7HS-10 with 1.0mm gap.

Ign timing: This is rarely altered and rarely wrong so if engine runs well leave as is.

Carb: Drain fuel from float bowl. If any signs of debris or water I'd have the carb off and dismantle spraying through with carb cleaner. Assemble only with new gaskets not any kind of sealant. With a warm engine check idle speed (use a £7 Ebay tach) and set mixture/speed if needed. 950rpm in neutral and at least 750rpm in forward gear prop in water. Mixture screw setting two turns out from lightly seated (plus/minus quarter turn).

Recoil starter pull cord: Check for chafing.

Prop: Remove and check for damage. Never file to smooth. Hammer out any small defects (against a block) or pro repair/replace if bad. Refit with greased splines. Torque 12Nm. New split pin.

Gear oil: Drain and replace looking for water ingress or metal filings. Always use new washers/seals.

Water pump: Drop gearbox and replace impellor.

Nuts, bolts, fixings: Look them over and check for tightness.

Grease points and other moving parts: Lubricate all round. Don't forget tilt mechanism which is often overlooked.

Anode: Check and replace if 25% or more material loss.

I think that's about the lot. As I said earlier there isn't that much to do and these engines are so easy to work on.

Fenlander, just realised I never said thanks for this list.

Havent started anything on it yet but this will come in super handy.

Thanks again
Rob

[Fenlander]

No problem Rob. Let us know how it goes in due course. David