Volvo Penta KAD 32 - What to look out for...

[alt]

Originally Posted by IBWET

I think JW know's what a breather is..however I can think of no breather on your engine,which I suspect he's getting at.

Aye I suspected he knows well what a breather is. I thought there was a breather on the KAD42? Must have read wrong.

Go easy on me!

-Edit- Just spotted I have 32 instead of 42 in the title - doh!

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by alt

-Edit- Just spotted I have 32 instead of 42 in the title - doh!

And your picture is a 32! Are you confused?

[Searider]

There's a can about the size of a bean tin near the rear of the engine - possibly beneath the turbocharger. Has a filter incorporated in it.

[IBWET]

Hope you don't mind alt, I've a wee question myself; Does the KAMD44 have anodes in the engine? I've been all over them and can't find one (you want to check this on the 32 alt )

JW: my engines are 24 Valve heads this has stopped me adjusting the tappets, one is noisey, it dosen't bother me,what chance do you think of dropping a valve etc?

Originally Posted by Searider

There's a can about the size of a bean tin near the rear of the engine - possibly beneath the turbocharger. Has a filter incorporated in it.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by IBWET

JW: my engines are 24 Valve heads this has stopped me adjusting the tappets, one is noisey, it dosen't bother me,what chance do you think of dropping a valve etc?

A noisey tappet (within reason) will do no harm, is just softens the valve timing on that cylinder. You do not need to be anxious about setting a 24 valve engine. There are 12 normal rockers. To activate 24 valves, the rockers press on the centre of a lever which presses 2 valves at a time. The word lever here isn't a good description. The principle is simple. One end of the lever also has a screw and nut adjuster just like the rocker. This screw bears on the top of one of the pair of valves so that you can ensure both vales open at the same time by adjusting the screw. It is much simpler than it sounds. I also found that when one pair of valves was down, it was possible to adjust 4 rockers so making the job a bit quicker. The heal of the cam must be circular and the timing fairly conservative.
The method I used was to get 2 valves down and identify the rockers to be adjusted.
Slacken the rocker locknut.
Slacken the lever locknut and back off the screw a half turn.
Insert the feeler.
Tighten the rocker screw until the feeler is lightly gripped to remove all the slack. This also makes one end of the lever contact its valve.
Finger tighten the lever screw to bring it into contanct with its valve and nip up its locknut.

This has balanced the opening of the pair of valves so that they are the same. Now go back to the rocker screw and adjust the clearance in the usual way. Write down which rockers you have adjusted. Repeat for the other rockers. Rotate the engine until the next pair of valves are down and repeat the prodedure.

It does take a while to do the job but it's staightforward if a bit fiddly. It took me about 4hours in total and much of that was removing all the bits so that I could lift the rocker cover!

On my engine, the listed replacement rocker cover gasket was priced at about £130. Needless to say, I didn't buy one. It was a good job too because it wasn't needed. The rocker cover had the usual piece of rubber cord set into a groove machined into the cover and it was still soft and reusable.

[IBWET]

Thanks J,

Removing the fuel lines (which run over the top of the cover) is my main concern because of inadvertently bending them then getting issues with air.

It's your (within reason) thats' worrying me

Originally Posted by jwalker

A noisey tappet (within reason) will do no harm, is just softens the valve timing on that cylinder. You do not need to be anxious about setting a 24 valve engine. There are 12 normal rockers. To activate 24 valves, the rockers press on the centre of a lever which presses 2 valves at a time. The word lever here isn't a good description. The principle is simple. One end of the lever also has a screw and nut adjuster just like the rocker. This screw bears on the top of one of the pair of valves so that you can ensure both vales open at the same time by adjusting the screw. It is much simpler than it sounds. I also found that when one pair of valves was down, it was possible to adjust 4 rockers so making the job a bit quicker. The heal of the cam must be circular and the timing fairly conservative.
The method I used was to get 2 valves down and identify the rockers to be adjusted.
Slacken the rocker locknut.
Slacken the lever locknut and back off the screw a half turn.
Insert the feeler.
Tighten the rocker screw until the feeler is lightly gripped to remove all the slack. This also makes one end of the lever contact its valve.
Finger tighten the lever screw to bring it into contanct with its valve and nip up its locknut.

This has balanced the opening of the pair of valves so that they are the same. Now go back to the rocker screw and adjust the clearance in the usual way. Write down which rockers you have adjusted. Repeat for the other rockers. Rotate the engine until the next pair of valves are down and repeat the prodedure.

It does take a while to do the job but it's staightforward if a bit fiddly. It took me about 4hours in total and much of that was removing all the bits so that I could lift the rocker cover!

On my engine, the listed replacement rocker cover gasket was priced at about £130. Needless to say, I didn't buy one. It was a good job too because it wasn't needed. The rocker cover had the usual piece of rubber cord set into a groove machined into the cover and it was still soft and reusable.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by IBWET

Thanks J,

Removing the fuel lines (which run over the top of the cover) is my main concern because of inadvertently bending them then getting issues with air.

You're going to have to disconnect them from the injectors anyway so you'll need to bleed the system when you've finished.

It's your (within reason) thats' worrying me

Funny you should say that cos I was just away sitting on the shitter and thought I'd better come back and qualify that.

An extra couple of thou clearance will not be a problem. If there is an error, it's better that the clearance is large rather than too small. I can see this next bit is gonna need a diagram....The rocker clearance is adjusted when the tappet is sitting on the heel of the cam. This heel is circular over a number of degrees and the rocker clearance can be adjusted while the tappet is sitting anywhere in this area. Now, to take up the clearance and lower the rocker gently onto the valve stem, there is a portion of the cam which is a ramp and it gently lifts the tappet. Following this ramp is the cam lift sector and this very quickly increases in lift rate.

If the rocker clearance is too wide, the ramp is passed and the lift sector is in use when the rocker contacts the valve. Because the acceleration of lift is increasing rapidly in this sector after the ramp, the rocker is not landed onto the valve gently and you get the consequent noise. Plainly, if the clearance is excessive there is increased noise and a degree of shock in the valve train which is undesirable. The valve timing is also altered so the valves open too late and close too early.

Having the rocker clearance too tight is a very bad thing because the valve will be opened using the ramp sector and, because this is a gentle slope, the valve will be opening much too early and also closing much too late. There is a risk of burned valves because the hot combustion gasses will be squirting through the narrow gap between the valve head and the valve seat while the tappet is on the cam ramp. Also, the valve heads run hot and their opportunity to loose heat is the time that they are in contact with the valve seat. When the rocker clearance is too small this heat transfer time is reduced.

[seafariskye]

easiest way i have found to do the valve clearances is to get a mechanic to do it.

These engines are just glorified dumper engines that have the word aqua thrown in. Any decent diesel mechanic can do it no bother, the clearances are written on the plastic casing - job done.

My fella charges about £100 do do the valve clearances - and what takes the time is to get off the pipework.

No anodes on the engine, just on the drive.

So is it the KAD 32 or 42 you are getting? photo was the 32?

Pete

[alt]

Hi guys,
So confused with lack of sleep. I have the boat now

She's the KAD32, sorry about the confusion!

With regard to the valve clearance settings - I'm goin to leave it to a pro. My question is: Boat is on 370 hours, when should I be getting someone to look at them? Receipts of previous maintenance don't show anything to say that the clearance was checked previously.

With regard to the anodes - Are there anodes on the KAD engine? I can see 2 on the DP stern drive (Which are well due a change).

While we're on the topic: Anywhere online (From a UK place) that I can buy KAD anodes, filters etc? Nowhere in Ireland know's what they're selling, would prefer to buy online

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by alt

With regard to the valve clearance settings - I'm goin to leave it to a pro. My question is: Boat is on 370 hours, when should I be getting someone to look at them? Receipts of previous maintenance don't show anything to say that the clearance was checked previously.

I'm sure my wee book said first at 50hrs and then every 100hrs but I've lost it so maybe I imagined it because my dealer says the Volvo document they have says first at 100hrs and again at each 100hrs after that.

Anywhere online (From a UK place) that I can buy KAD anodes, filters etc?

I buy my filters from a motor factors, just over £4 for a fuel filter and about £6 for an air filter, can't remember the price for the oil filter.

I've found these folk to be helpful:

VOLSPEC, Tollesbury

Tel: 08007314824 or 01621869756
Fax: 01621 868859
sales@volspec.co.uk

You may find this to be useful.

[seafariskye]

Volspec i have found over the years to be excellent - i would rec them to anyone.
Coastalrides i have found over the years to be 'different' - email me for my opinion ...........! skyeseafari@aol.com

Valve clearance supposed to be done every 200 hours, although I do not think so that often with the 32 - the 44 and 300 are supposedly different and need more looking at.

Anodes - they do tend to eat the ring anode, but not so much the other bar one - there are none on the engine, so is a small price to pay to keep it good. Depends on where you moor and all that..........

The hours that are on it are nothing to worry about - i put over 1000 hours on mine in the 1st year i had it!!!

cheers

Pete

[alt]

Thanks for the links guys, very useful

Jwalker - What exactly did you ask for? If I ask my motorfactors for a filter for a boat they'll start scratching their heads!

[blufin]

hi alt
marine parts in malahide will have or get you everything you need, either genuine or aftermarket parts and DHL them to you. 01 8075144
gerry

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by alt

Thanks for the links guys, very useful

Jwalker - What exactly did you ask for? If I ask my motorfactors for a filter for a boat they'll start scratching their heads!

Take the old ones with you, they'll match them. I think the fuel and air filter for the 32 are the same as my 300 but the oil one might well be different. The Crossland part numbers are: Air filter=719, Fuel filter=5006, Oil filter=619. If you are pally enough with the guys at the motor factors, ask them whether they have a filter catalogue you can have...very useful. If they sell another make of filter, they should be able to match the numbers. IBWET gets his from Maccess, if they exist in your part of the world that could be a useful source.

[alt]

Thanks jwalker. Volspec got back to me with a quote so i'm just gonna buy the whole lot from them this time round as im in a bit of a rush. Next time ill see my other options.

Does anyone know the capacity of the supercharger oil? I'm going to do a complete flush to be safe. I know it comes in 250ml cartons, I just want to knwo how much to order

Oh, Iknow i'm being cheeky now but.... I have the pump for changing the gearoil on my mercruiser Alpha-one, is it the same thread size for the volvo duo prop stern drive?

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by alt

Does anyone know the capacity of the supercharger oil?

It's 100ml. You need to read yer user manual!

I have the pump for changing the gearoil on my mercruiser Alpha-one, is it the same thread size for the volvo duo prop stern drive?

Nay idea.

[alt]

jwalker - I read the manual and I thought it was some sort of typing error... 100ml just seems so little!

Must search the net for a Volvo diesel user-group

[Spike]

Originally Posted by alt

Hi guys,
Not strictly RIB related. I am going to inspect a boat next week, which I intend to buy. There is a Volvo KAD 32 diesel (Super and Turbo - 170HP - 2001) installed.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? Any known faults with the engine?

The supercharger has been replaced last year. There's load of receipt's for all the service history so I presume it was well taken care of.

Any advise/tips on things to watch out for much appreciated!

Hi,
Ive had 4 boats with KAD32 & trust me you want to carry new Supercharger clutches as they go if you hammer the engine, i have changed at least 1 on every KAD32 & two on one of the KAD42's ive had. Check to see if they get extra hot under load or if they are slipping, remember they are only working under 3000 to 3500rpm as the turbo takes over after that & the Supercharger cuts out. They cost about £65>£80 & are easy to change even if your at sea!! so dont panic. Also keep an eye on the engine mounts as they have a habbit of going & id change the Bellows on the gear box just cause they should be done every other year. Hope that helps.
Regards Mike.

[alt]

Hi Mike,
Thank's for that. The supercharger was changed last year, and there are receipts (Never asked why - the owner just said 'it went')

By clutch I presume you mean the clutch that sit's between the belt and the charger? My charger kicks in at around 1500RPM (Can't remember when it cuts out - I was having too much fun!) So if the clutch goes, the charger won't kick in? I will keep that in mind because if the clutch ever went and you didn't tell me, i'd have thought the charger was gone, so thanks!!

When you say 'check to see if they get extra hot', do you mean the belts, or the body of the charger?

With regards to mounts - Should I try torqing down th enuts every so often, or just look for shot mounts?

The bellows were changed at the beginning of last season. I inspected them before putting the boat in the water and they were spotless. No signs of cracks etc and they were still even shiny! However they will be replaced at the end of this season for peace of mind.

Originally Posted by Spike

Hi,
Ive had 4 boats with KAD32 & trust me you want to carry new Supercharger clutches as they go if you hammer the engine, i have changed at least 1 on every KAD32 & two on one of the KAD42's ive had. Check to see if they get extra hot under load or if they are slipping, remember they are only working under 3000 to 3500rpm as the turbo takes over after that & the Supercharger cuts out. They cost about £65>£80 & are easy to change even if your at sea!! so dont panic. Also keep an eye on the engine mounts as they have a habbit of going & id change the Bellows on the gear box just cause they should be done every other year. Hope that helps.
Regards Mike.

[Spike]

Originally Posted by alt

Hi Mike,
Thank's for that. The supercharger was changed last year, and there are receipts (Never asked why - the owner just said 'it went')

By clutch I presume you mean the clutch that sit's between the belt and the charger? My charger kicks in at around 1500RPM (Can't remember when it cuts out - I was having too much fun!) So if the clutch goes, the charger won't kick in? I will keep that in mind because if the clutch ever went and you didn't tell me, i'd have thought the charger was gone, so thanks!!

When you say 'check to see if they get extra hot', do you mean the belts, or the body of the charger?

With regards to mounts - Should I try torqing down th enuts every so often, or just look for shot mounts?

The bellows were changed at the beginning of last season. I inspected them before putting the boat in the water and they were spotless. No signs of cracks etc and they were still even shiny! However they will be replaced at the end of this season for peace of mind.

Mounts; Top bolts seem to come loose.

Clutches; Front black round bit on the charger with belt on it, gets extra hot if slipping also gets play in it when bearings going, if it does/has change it A.S.A.P. i got conned by the 'sorry the supercharger is gone £££££' story the first time around (expensive missplaced trust)! so did my homework the next time. If the clutch go's & you dont have a spare then just take the belt off as they have a habit of falling to bits all over the engine room (metal / bearings & rubber everywhere), this will mean the engine will run on the turbo only ie; be a lot slower onto the plane but should get you home ok, a bit like running a VOLVO AD31 instead.
All i will say is preventive maintainence is allways the best way of keeping the BIG bills at bay.

But overall they are a great engine, 0ne of the best in my expirence (sound great too). Have fun.
Mike.