Volvo Penta KAD 32 - What to look out for...

alt · 11 March 2007, 20:08

Hi guys,
Not strictly RIB related. I am going to inspect a boat next week, which I intend to buy. There is a Volvo KAD 32 diesel (Super and Turbo - 170HP - 2001) installed.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? Any known faults with the engine?

The supercharger has been replaced last year. There's load of receipt's for all the service history so I presume it was well taken care of.

Any advise/tips on things to watch out for much appreciated!

IBWET · 11 March 2007, 20:21

As far as I'm aware fairly bomb proof, good engine.the engine should be green all over,check the turbo, if it's not then it's overheated bad sign (even running at full throttle it will stay painted)

Better the guy used the engine every day. they very rarely wear out,only suffer from either lack of maintenance or lack of use, promoting corrosion. check it dosen't over heat, the heat exchanger can get clogged with salt this can cause restricted flow.

If you buy it remember to change air filter regularly,or you'll lose power,check the supercharger oil regularly (and buy the right stuff) the fresh side should be green (if he's used Volvo anti freeze) if it's brown....bad sign. .

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

Hi guys,
Not strictly RIB related. I am going to inspect a boat next week, which I intend to buy. There is a Volvo KAD 32 diesel (Super and Turbo - 170HP - 2001) installed.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? Any known faults with the engine?

The supercharger has been replaced last year. There's load of receipt's for all the service history so I presume it was well taken care of.

Any advise/tips on things to watch out for much appreciated!

alt · 11 March 2007, 20:38

Attached is a picture of the engine. Turbo is a little rusty - Nothing to get concerned over? Or should the paint on the turbo still stick even with the heat? Is the supercharger oil seperate to the engine/turbo oil? The coolan expansion tank looks brown'ish .... Is this just the colour of the plastic? When you say the 'proper' supercharger oil? Brand? Quality etc?

IBWET · 11 March 2007, 22:42

Turbo looks fine, what I was talking about is paint burned off, there is a alan key nut on the top of the turbo, remember to bleed it when you change the fresh water side/anti freeze.

The super charger oil should come from Volvo (pricey) don't take risks with that one. the nut on top of the supercharger in plain view in the photee is the one with the little dipstick attached (don't lose the copper washer).

The plastic is white ask him when it was last changed (if he says less than a year, he's telling porkies,(it takes two years+ to go brown) remember it's only an indicator of maintenance, the engine is fairly bomb proof so don't let it put you off just make sure you look closer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

Attached is a picture of the engine. Turbo is a little rusty - Nothing to get concerned over? Or should the paint on the turbo still stick even with the heat? Is the supercharger oil seperate to the engine/turbo oil? The coolan expansion tank looks brown'ish .... Is this just the colour of the plastic? When you say the 'proper' supercharger oil? Brand? Quality etc?

alt · 12 March 2007, 00:17

Thank's for the info dude. A service manual will be the first purchase once I get posession of the boat. It will be nice running one of these engines, considering my current (Well, sold it yesterday) engine is/was a Mercruiser 1.7 diesel

jwalker · 12 March 2007, 01:16

Check the top rubber gaiter between the transom shield and the drive. Two U/Js are in there and the gaiter needs to be in pristine condition. The lower gaiter is for the exhaust so not so important and it's also easily changed. The U/J gaiter should be changed every 2yrs and the drive needs to be removed to do this. If it's due for renewal, a bit of negotiation may be in order.

Similarly, there is a rubber gaiter which joins the exhaust header to the down pipe. It needs to be checked for condition before you use the boat. The raw water is picked up from the inside of the transom shield below the water line and the rubber hoses there should be checked as should the hose on the outside which transfers the water from the leg to the transom shield. The water pump impeller need to be good also.

I agree with IB, the header tank does look a bit stained. I'd be changing the water and replacing the antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor. Draining it down is easy and the instructions are in the user manual. Unlike some engines, a good quality auto antifreeze is all that is required. The user manual tells you how to do it.

The supercharger lubricant is known as Volvo Compressor Oil and it's about 20quid for 250ml

Fortunately, you only need about half of it for a refill. Again, the user manual tells you how to do it.

When the engine is cold and started, the supercharger will run. It's designed to do this to help the warm up of the engine. If the engine lid is open and you are not aware of this, you could be alarmed by the excess noise. After a few minutes the supercharger clutch will disengage with a substantial click and the engine should run quietly.

seafariskye · 12 March 2007, 10:39

had a KAD 32 in my 7m - was a great engine - as JW says, when it is cold the comp will run, then kick off - and i always thought sounds like a taxi....
The engines go realy well, and are really powerful - the change from when the comp comes in when you are running, is huge, and they really go..used to get my 7m going well with 12 on board...
Pending on what hours are on it - i would check the raw water pump housing, where the impeller is, and make sure there is no drips coming from where it joins the engine.
Alternator, is a weak spot on all the KADS, as the raw water strainer is right above it, so check that, also when he changed his oils - should be below 100 hours for the engine, and 200 for the leg.
Turbo will have a bit of rust on it because the engine cover looks like it opens, and drops water straight on top of the turbo.
Take a pen torch and look at the condtion of behind the belts, will have a bit of rust prob, but should be no leaks or anything.
I sold my KAD with 2000 hours of work on, and never had a problem with it apart from wear and tear -
From photo looks like a clean engine though - also ask what revs the owner used to cruise at?
Will think of something else and add it later.
cheers
Pete

Searider · 12 March 2007, 23:04

Check the top of the aluminium section of the exhaust pipe. This is connected to the exhaust elbow by a rubber section. The aluminium can corrode from the inside out. Any staining on the outside of the pipe may be indications of leaks and possibly underlying corrosion.

alt · 12 March 2007, 23:51

Thank's a million for the advise guys. I should add:

Bellow's and water impeller changed last season.
Alternator was giving trouble last week - He said the engineer has this sorted.
I went for a test drive a few weeks back. Supercharger ran and I could hear it clicking in and out - I thought something was wrong but he told me exactly what you guys did

I've taken note of everything said here. I always change the engine oil's and filters and coolant when I buy any engine. Do you recommend I change the supercharger oil? Is there a filter for this oil?

jwalker · 13 March 2007, 00:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

..Do you recommend I change the supercharger oil? Is there a filter for this oil?

Just a filler/dipstick and drain plug. Yes, change it and you'll know it's fine from now on. I'd also replace the drive oil too and then you'll have everything hunky dory. I don't know what oil is recommended for your drive but it's likely to be Synthetic GL5 75w90. Volvo charge abot 80qwid for 5 litre

I have been using Castrol Dynadrive Plus 75w90. You have to lashout about £140 but you get 25litres. I've recently changed to Fuchs Titan Cytrac 75w90, the price is similar.

alt · 13 March 2007, 00:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Just a filler/dipstick and drain plug. Yes, change it and you'll know it's fine from now on. I'd also replace the drive oil too and then you'll have everything hunky dory. I don't know what oil is recommended for your drive but it's likely to be Synthetic GL5 75w90. Volvo charge abot 80qwid for 5 litre

I have been using Castrol Dynadrive Plus 75w90. You have to lashout about £140 but you get 25litres. I've recently changed to Fuchs Titan Cytrac 75w90, the price is similar.

Changed thw oil in my Alpha One Drive with the Castrol 75w 90 during the summer, about 30euro for 2 litres. I presume the Volvo drive is the same stuff, however I will research this. The boat will not be goign in the water for a few weeks so can get all my pre-season work done promptly.

I presume the water impeller is in the out-drive like most other drives? (What a stupid idea argh!)

jwalker · 13 March 2007, 00:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

...I presume the water impeller is in the out-drive like most other drives? (What a stupid idea argh!)

NO! The water pump is above the alternator. The face plate comes off and the impellor can be replaced. If you do this on the water, be sure the pump is above the sea level or you'll flood. Pete told you to look for water leaks at the rear of the pump because it can drip into the alternator. Given you mention an alternator failure, I'd take his advice if I were you.

alt · 13 March 2007, 16:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

NO! The water pump is above the alternator. The face plate comes off and the impellor can be replaced. If you do this on the water, be sure the pump is above the sea level or you'll flood. Pete told you to look for water leaks at the rear of the pump because it can drip into the alternator. Given you mention an alternator failure, I'd take his advice if I were you.

It's all making sense now! I thought he mentioned that the strainer was above the alternator, not the pump. Should there be a leak from the strainer/pump, would replacing the pump do the trick? I think I remember watching an RNLI DVD showing the basics, one o fwhich included a water impeller change

jwalker · 13 March 2007, 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

It's all making sense now! I thought he mentioned that the strainer was above the alternator, not the pump. Should there be a leak from the strainer/pump, would replacing the pump do the trick? I think I remember watching an RNLI DVD showing the basics, one o fwhich included a water impeller change

The strainer is above the pump which is above and slightly to the side of the alternator. If either of them leak there will be water around that area. The strainer and the pump are separate items. After replacing the lid of the strainer, be sure to tighten it firmly. It can leak if just done up finger tight.

alt · 14 March 2007, 11:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

The strainer is above the pump which is above and slightly to the side of the alternator. If either of them leak there will be water around that area. The strainer and the pump are separate items. After replacing the lid of the strainer, be sure to tighten it firmly. It can leak if just done up finger tight.

Will keep this in mind when it comes to servicing. Did anyone think of installing an angled aluminium plate (Or similar) under the water pump to divert any possible leaking water? Or is this impossible? (I've not yet seen the engine in the flesh so don't know how much space there is down there)

alt · 14 March 2007, 12:29

I think i'll need to buy a service manual ASAP for this engine to be safe, as it will answer most my questions.

How often do you guy's change the crankcase breather filter on these engines?

jwalker · 14 March 2007, 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

I think i'll need to buy a service manual ASAP for this engine to be safe, as it will answer most my questions.

The user manual is all you'll need until a major job is necessary. Download here.

Quote:

How often do you guy's change the crankcase breather filter on these engines?

What's that?

alt · 15 March 2007, 22:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

The user manual is all you'll need until a major job is necessary. Download here.

What's that?

Thansk for the link, J. Good reading. Picking up the boat in less than 24 hours woohoo!

Re: Crank breather... Hope you're joking... crank breather was the reason for many a turbo failure on the BMW diesels

IBWET · 15 March 2007, 23:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by alt

Thansk for the link, J. Good reading. Picking up the boat in less than 24 hours woohoo!

Re: Crank breather... Hope you're joking... crank breather was the reason for many a turbo failure on the BMW diesels

I think JW know's what a breather is..however I can think of no breather on your engine,which I suspect he's getting at.

jwalker · 16 March 2007, 00:01

There is one on my KAD300. It is a rubber tube, about 200mm ID., which comes off the top/side of the rocker cover and goes around and down the port side of the engine but I'm not sure just where it terminates. I'll have a look tomorrow. There is an anti splash plate inside the cover to prevent oil being drawn directly into the tube. I can tell you that, since I adjusted the rocker clearances yesterday, the tube was virtually dry inside and not the oily sludgy thing that they often are.

Edit: I can see a pipe, on the picture you posted, coming from the rear rocker cover starboard side so it's in an entirely different position on your engine.