Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 04 July 2015, 19:33   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - N Ireland
Boat name: Still deciding
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu M40C
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 92
water in gear oil???

Need a little bit of help here. Cant find any definitive info online.

What colour should used outboard gear oil be?

Is a light tan/caramel an indication of water?
__________________
davidni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 19:35   #2
RIBnet admin team
 
Fenlander's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
Unless I've suffered water ingress the oil will be similar to new... bit darker perhaps, tan/creamy will be water.

Not the end of the world if the gearcase is filled with proper outboard gear oil which is designed to lubricate OK if there is a bit of water ingress.
__________________
Fenlander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 19:45   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidni View Post
Need a little bit of help here. Cant find any definitive info online.

What colour should used outboard gear oil be?

Is a light tan/caramel an indication of water?
G/box oil should look as you'd imagine oil to look, like thickish engine oil.

Caramel is emulsified. Drop the lot out, refill with the recommended spec, run it a check it again by dropping a little out. If it's caramel coloured again, you have a g/box seal failure.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:04   #4
RIBnet admin team
 
Fenlander's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
>>>Not the end of the world if the gearcase is filled with proper outboard gear oil which is designed to lubricate OK if there is a bit of water ingress.

Perhaps I should clarify that... like Mollers I'd change it but I was meaning don't think it will have already trashed the gears.

I use a small syringe with tube on the end that can be pushed into the filler hole and draw a bit up now and again to see the condition.
__________________
Fenlander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:10   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
[QUOTE=Fenlander;684702
I use a small syringe with tube on the end that can be pushed into the filler hole and draw a bit up now and again to see the condition.[/QUOTE]

I use an old skool grandad's oil can, keep refilling until upto level.

A tip, my Honda will fool you into thinking that it's upto level when it's not. Give it 5 mins and it'll take another 50cc. It tends to take a while to seep down to the business end.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:12   #6
RIBnet admin team
 
Fenlander's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
My tube on syringe is just for sampling to look for water. I fill from the bottom to avoid air locks.
__________________
Fenlander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:20   #7
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
. I fill from the bottom to avoid air locks.
Tricky when there's a boat attached.
__________________
Mollers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:34   #8
Member
 
Fender's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Make: Zodiac
Length: under 3m
Engine: Scull
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 531
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
Tricky when there's a boat attached.
Standard practice to fill from the drain plug, pumping oil in until flowing out of the level plug, safest way to avoid air locks
__________________
Fender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 20:59   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: gloucestershire
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fender View Post
Standard practice to fill from the drain plug, pumping oil in until flowing out of the level plug, safest way to avoid air locks


+1
__________________
camelgas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 21:56   #10
Member
 
spartacus's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,650
RIBase
The fibre washers on the drain and fill plugs are often overlooked. Tohatsu have a specific part and it's well worth renewing. Part number: 332-60006-0. Use a decent flat head screw driver to torque them. If the gear oil has the appearance of mayo at the next service, then the problem lies elsewhere.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
spartacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 July 2015, 23:42   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - N Ireland
Boat name: Still deciding
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu M40C
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
The fibre washers on the drain and fill plugs are often overlooked. Tohatsu have a specific part and it's well worth renewing. Part number: 332-60006-0. Use a decent flat head screw driver to torque them. If the gear oil has the appearance of mayo at the next service, then the problem lies elsewhere.
Thanks chaps. This is a good point and I have new washers here and ready.

Outboard mechanic came out to service...it was pathetic so ordered some parts in myself to do properly.

Did water pump refurb rather than just impeller as dont know when it was all last done. Replaced trim tab anode. New spark plugs. Greased all moving parts. Cleaned and protected all electrical terminals.

Since the guy changed gear oil, engine has only ran in barrel for 10 mins and sat in it half the day when full of water. So am surprised by the water ingress for such short immersion.

I'm hoping it is just the plug washers since he didnt renew them. Driveshaft seal appeared in very good nick but if its milky again after next outing will change that along with any propeller seals. Unfortunately suppose that will mean replacing water pump gaskets again after only changing!

One oddity I encountered...ordered the correct genuine Tohatsu impeller yet the impeller that was installed seemed much beefier and better made...metal core, thicker rubber etc??? Replaced it with the Tohatsu genuine part which seems flimsy in comparison.

To be fair engine has obvious new parts and gaskets here and there etc and has excellent and even compression so itmsems to have been well looked after and little used.
__________________
davidni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 July 2015, 05:51   #12
Spammer
 
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
Be sure to change the screw seals.
__________________
Nightfisher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 July 2015, 13:36   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fender View Post
Standard practice to fill from the drain plug, pumping oil in until flowing out of the level plug, safest way to avoid air locks
+2

Don't most of the OB gear oil bottles come with an "injection nozzle" to ram into the hole to allow you to do that?

I've certainly had that on the oil bottle the last few times I've changed my oil. I fill form the drain, then (the tricky bit) get the top screw in, quickly remove the bottle & insert "drain" screw, then trim up / down, open up the top again and to pup to line to replace what you lost in the "being an octopus would have been handy" game.

That way all the air pockets are / should be purged.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 July 2015, 20:11   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
water in gear oil. oil usually comes out as white as milk.
__________________
uncle al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 July 2015, 20:28   #15
Member
 
A1an's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
RIBase
water in gear oil???

Port and starboard engines, 40hrs running iirc, guess which one needed new seals?

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByRIB Net1436902078.121321.jpg
Views:	157
Size:	71.9 KB
ID:	107005
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
A1an is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 July 2015, 10:32   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - N Ireland
Boat name: Still deciding
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu M40C
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 92
Yes, well looks like it was from the outboard mechanic not renewing drain and fill washers when changing oil. Did it myself and renewed them. Perfect now. Cant believe that.
__________________
davidni is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 07:18.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.