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17 February 2016, 06:07
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#1
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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Water stopped squirting from spout and started coming out of mount area
Fired upbeat the motor from my first rib yesterday.. Started immediately and sounds good..
I monitored the water spout which came out after a free seconds and ran OK.. Then it started dribbling and then water started coming out of the area in the pic..
How do I fix it? Impeller is 5 months old and hardly worked..
This is a 1989 mariner mercury split case 60hp 3 cylinder..
Is this the serial number?
Looks like 1593 7511C2
Thanks
Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
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17 February 2016, 08:35
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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did you make sure the impeller blades were facing in the correct direction if not they might of stripped off.
cheers
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17 February 2016, 08:48
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#3
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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it was done by the PO who had it or a few yrs.. im sure they would have done it correctly.. the water was coming out at the top for about 3 minutes.. then it started dribbling (dirt?) and then started coming out the mount -
it seems like there must have been dirt in there cos it was working fine.. and the water was warm .. when i followed the tube up the motor it went ontop of the top cylinder on the head.. so it was circulating thru the head..
the motor has some rusted nuts so im quite sure its dirt / corrosion..
how to i flush this out?
with the water coming out between the head and stem sections it looks like a decent tear down?
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17 February 2016, 08:55
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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yep looks like a bigger job possibly blocked up with corrosion.
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17 February 2016, 09:01
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#5
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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curious why it wd be coming out at the base of the head section - seems super odd.. i was half keen to replace all te rusty nuts and bolts anyway - oh well.. my guess is the incoming hose that connects to the lower section of the head prob came loose / split and now its running down the inside instead of circulating up through the head -
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17 February 2016, 09:22
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstarocka
curious why it wd be coming out at the base of the head section - seems super odd.. i was half keen to replace all te rusty nuts and bolts anyway - oh well.. my guess is the incoming hose that connects to the lower section of the head prob came loose / split and now its running down the inside instead of circulating up through the head -
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possibly i would start by taking the lower unit off look at the pump, back flush from the tell tale, maybe your right re the hose/pipe, split/corroded/ loose taking the leg off not a big job it might be quite simple and revel the problem.
cheers
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17 February 2016, 09:36
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#7
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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yeah tx - those bolts holding the shaft up are in bad shape - prob good to take the lower unit off and shaft - and give everything a once over..
thank goodness the motor fires up instantly without choke on a cool day - those electronics look incredibly complicated..
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17 February 2016, 09:43
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstarocka
yeah tx - those bolts holding the shaft up are in bad shape - prob good to take the lower unit off and shaft - and give everything a once over..
thank goodness the motor fires up instantly without choke on a cool day - those electronics look incredibly complicated..
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re the bolts there was a thread on here from Dan gurney taking bolts out to change engine mounts on a yam he had them break off very easily then it become a major job best of luck.
cheers
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17 February 2016, 10:02
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#9
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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yeah i have a very hi quality threading set lol, and a heat gun and impact driver.. im expecting the worst.. how else would I be able to check the water hose going into the head?
Id have to get between the head and the shaft section -
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17 February 2016, 10:24
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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take the gearbox off first then decide have a look up the leg with a torch you might see the problem without going any further.
you-tube is a good place to start see if anyone has any tips on stripping your engine or any engine gives you an idea D-ray's for one, guy in the south of USA has some good tips fitting water pumps/servicing etc.see if you can download a service/workshop manual i think there's some on here not sure where to look but a bit of searching will come up with something but d-ray's a good start you absorb it better when on a video.
cheers
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17 February 2016, 16:08
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstarocka
curious why it wd be coming out at the base of the head section
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The telltale does not exhaust all the water going through the head. Most of the water joins the exhaust gases and goes out through the prop (or wherever the exhaust goes on your motor.) The tell tale is like putting a small hole in your garden hose; it's there to tell you if you have pressure in the rest of the system or not. Unfortunately, the "not" part may be due to the telltale hose or nozzle being blocked, or a lack of pressure at the point the telltale is tapped into.
First thing I'd do is to stick a piece of wire or weed whacker line up the telltale to shift any blockage there. Second, I'd put a high pressure nozzle on a garden hose, and reverse flush through the telltale outlet (motor off.) If neither of those work, see if you can remove the telltale hose at the block and check for water there. If not, then I'd start in on the lower unit. Put a hose on the water line leaving the impeller and see if water circulates through the head. If it doesn't you have blockage within the water jacket. If it does, start looking at the impeller.
jky
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17 February 2016, 20:22
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
First thing I'd do is to stick a piece of wire or weed whacker line up the telltale to shift any blockage there.
jky
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+1....
That'd scupper the "profits of doom" who'd have you pull the engine apart before you'd checked to see if if is could be sorted in two minutes with a bit of MIG wire.......
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17 February 2016, 21:59
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#13
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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Lol ok will do.. But I don't see how it's leaking out bottom of the head unless a hose is kinked/split? Tx for the info.. Only be back at boat in a few days..
Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
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18 February 2016, 08:33
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstarocka
it was done by the PO who had it or a few yrs.. im sure they would have done it correctly.. the water was coming out at the top for about 3 minutes.. then it started dribbling (dirt?) and then started coming out the mount -
it seems like there must have been dirt in there cos it was working fine.. and the water was warm .. when i followed the tube up the motor it went ontop of the top cylinder on the head.. so it was circulating thru the head..
the motor has some rusted nuts so im quite sure its dirt / corrosion..
how to i flush this out?
with the water coming out between the head and stem sections it looks like a decent tear down?
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well i would certainly strip down as above started dribbling dirt [heavy corrosion] if that's dislodged then more to follow depending on how bad it is it needs a good flush out running the engine whilst trying to clear through the tell tale could cause serious damage if it overheats, taking the lower leg off back flushing to get the crap out whilst checking the pump at the same time its not a major strip can be done in an hour,can you be 100% sure its all ok, i do a service once a year on my engines which includes an impeller in the service kit. OMO
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18 February 2016, 12:55
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstarocka
Lol ok will do.. But I don't see how it's leaking out bottom of the head unless a hose is kinked/split? Tx for the info.. Only be back at boat in a few days..
Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
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Last time I saw this, it wasn't actually leaking from where the water was dripping. The water was just trickling over the outside of the engine from the tell-tale nozzle and dripping off elsewhere
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22 February 2016, 11:46
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Welcome to the Clamshell club!
As an '89 model you are likely (but no guarantee) to have the revised edition cooling - they removed the thermostat & Bypass valve because of possible overheating problems, so you basically get full flow through the whole head all the time. Makes the Idle rough as a badger's @rse, but keeps the engine happy when running.
The way to tell is if you look at your exhaust side (LH if looking towards the bow of the boat) you will see a big round bit o nthe casting (about 1" dia) on the exhaust cover about halfway up. If it has no hole, you have the new cooling system so a blockage there is less likely, if it has a small hole, you have the thermostat & valve, but order up a new exhaust cover gasket before you take the lid off as both the thermostat and poppet valve can block (one of the reasons I modified mine) Also check that hole - it is to refer the poppet valve to atmospheric pressure and if blocked with salt etc can casue problems Again a quick poke will clear it, but beware you have a rubber valve under there so don't poke it too hard or you'll rupture it!
Also probably worth making sure you have the latest version of the nozzle at the outlet - the newer ones have a smaller hole so more water goes through the engine! (a worn one will have the same effect) They are V cheap so probably wiorth replacing anyway to be sure.
I have a full set of pics of it in bits on the home PC from my rebuild. I'll dig the ones out of the top of the leg - there are (from memory) 2 gaskets to get through to get a leak there!
Other thing - are you testing on muffs or in the water? There are lots of places on the leg water squirts out of if on muffs - and some of it goes up!
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22 February 2016, 12:47
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#17
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
Welcome to the Clamshell club!
As an '89 model you are likely (but no guarantee) to have the revised edition cooling - they removed the thermostat & Bypass valve because of possible overheating problems, so you basically get full flow through the whole head all the time. Makes the Idle rough as a badger's @rse, but keeps the engine happy when running.
The way to tell is if you look at your exhaust side (LH if looking towards the bow of the boat) you will see a big round bit o nthe casting (about 1" dia) on the exhaust cover about halfway up. If it has no hole, you have the new cooling system so a blockage there is less likely, if it has a small hole, you have the thermostat & valve, but order up a new exhaust cover gasket before you take the lid off as both the thermostat and poppet valve can block (one of the reasons I modified mine) Also check that hole - it is to refer the poppet valve to atmospheric pressure and if blocked with salt etc can casue problems Again a quick poke will clear it, but beware you have a rubber valve under there so don't poke it too hard or you'll rupture it!
Also probably worth making sure you have the latest version of the nozzle at the outlet - the newer ones have a smaller hole so more water goes through the engine! (a worn one will have the same effect) They are V cheap so probably wiorth replacing anyway to be sure.
I have a full set of pics of it in bits on the home PC from my rebuild. I'll dig the ones out of the top of the leg - there are (from memory) 2 gaskets to get through to get a leak there!
Other thing - are you testing on muffs or in the water? There are lots of places on the leg water squirts out of if on muffs - and some of it goes up!
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Testing on muffs, will be at the motor in 2-3 days, had to come buy some parts.. Hoping I don't have to remove the head section, bolts look pretty rusty..
Will take off lower unit and check if that hole is there.. Someone suggested a water pressure gauge on it..
Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
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22 February 2016, 12:49
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#18
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Member
Country: South Africa
Town: Cape Town
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 3cyl 2str
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 90
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Also, I mixed 30ml to a 1.5 fuel bottle, but there's no smoke at all.. Literally not even a puff, I take it that's a good sign?
Was previously used by saf marine here in South Africa so probably took good care of it.. 50:1 mix right?
Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
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22 February 2016, 14:56
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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You might find this link of use. Click on Mercury, enter your motor details into the boxes on the next page & you'll get the parts catalogue with diagrams & part numbers.
Evinrude Parts - OMC - Mercury Outboard Parts - Mercruiser Parts - Yamaha Marine
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22 February 2016, 16:01
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Aye, head off isn't fun.....
The fact you got water out of it initially makes me think you proably have the pipe in the right place, but can't guarantee what may be stuck in the various passagways. Like I said, the cooling cover on the exhaust side also opens up a couple of places to poke / flush from.
That mix gives 50:1 to me. and yes, it's a 50:1 mix.
No smoke? I am a little surprised - most 2- strokes (especially premix ones!) will smoke when cold...... Mine usually triggers fog warnings! (slight exaggeration for comedy effect!)
Just to be clear - the hole I am talking about is not in the lower unit - it's on the side of the powerhead above the gear change slider. I'll try to post a pic with an arrow tonight)
If you can get onto a Merc / Mariner Microfiche, (edit - Paintman has posted a link while I've been typing)
To illustrate the lack of a thermostat etc in the newer engines:
Old version:
650 (3 CYL.) Mercury Outboard 9112989 THRU 9135824 EXHAUST AND MANIFOLD COVERS Diagram and Parts
New Version:
60 (3 CYL.) Mercury Outboard 9469200 THRU 9683054 Exhaust and Manifold Covers Diagram and Parts
Main difference is the lack of the Thermostat / poppet valve The hole you are looking for is tiny (like about 3mm dia) and is on item 1 of the new one & item 22 on the old one. (you can see the "round bit" on the LHS of the cover on the old pic - it's dead centre of that circular raised bit)
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