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28 October 2014, 07:50
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 95
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What grease to use?
I am having a go at winterising my Mariner 30hp 2 stroke outboard. So far I have emptied fuel filter and given it a wipe. Gear oil and fogging oil is on order. Would like some advice on greasing the steering and clamp - wondered what grease to use, any recommendations? Also is it just a case of connecting gun to nipple and pushing in grease until squeezed out all old grease? Also any other advice on winterising would be helpful. Cheers Chris
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28 October 2014, 08:04
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,651
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I use Starbrite grease which is actually meant for bearings but I use it for the nipple points too. Any decent marine grease will work. Duckhams used to make a yellow marine grease that came in a can rather than a tub. Great stuff. Regards nipple points - connect grease gun to nipple points and press trigger until you see old or new grease come out. Wipe off excess, etc.
Other things I would do as part of a winterisation is remove propeller and grease splined shaft. Use a new stainless steel split pin. Also remove thermostat, lightly wire brush, clean aperture and renew gasket. Lightly grease things like butterfly valve behind airbox as it tends to sieze and throttle and gear linkages. The carbs you can drain by opening the lower carb drain screw if you didn't run it dry of fuel. Wire brush sacrificial zinc anodes and check condition. Renew if necessary.
Service wise before the season starts again - renew starter rope if manual start, new sparks, etc. I also like to look over the electrical bullet connectors, lightly sand with a fine paper to remove any oxidisation and reconnect.
If the engine is electric start, then put the battery on a trickle charge and check electrolyte level before storing.
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Is that with or without VAT?
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28 October 2014, 08:44
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 95
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Thanks Spartacus - cheers for the good advice. Just been on eBay and ordered a few cartridges of the starbright grease. Also, as you suggest, will be removing prop and greasing spline.
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29 October 2014, 10:32
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Boat name: Salty Cheeks
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: 20hp 2stroke Mariner
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriswood
Thanks Spartacus - cheers for the good advice. Just been on eBay and ordered a few cartridges of the starbright grease. Also, as you suggest, will be removing prop and greasing spline.
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Hi
While engine has carb box off and still running, spray fogging oil into carb untill the engine die's.Take spark plug's out and spray into spark plug hole's refit old spark plug's renew before start up at start of season.
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29 October 2014, 10:51
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,998
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>>>will be removing prop and greasing spline.
Good tip, I do this.
I always carry a spare prop, nut and washer so I want to know it can be changed without hassle. Some folks think this over the top for a SIB outboard but having once experienced the dreadful vibration from a rock damaged prop it's worthwhile to save a wasted holiday if it happened again.
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29 October 2014, 12:11
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave3235
Hi
While engine has carb box off and still running, spray fogging oil into carb untill the engine die's.Take spark plug's out and spray into spark plug hole's refit old spark plug's renew before start up at start of season.
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Drain carb etc then I remove plug leads, remove plugs and pour in a dollop of 4 stroke oil into each hole, refit plugs (not leads - position away from plugs!) and spin engine over a few times.
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29 October 2014, 18:05
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 95
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Cheers for advice everyone. Once again all very helpful and will follow the the useful tips. Not considered getting a replacement prop but as we take the boat to Cornwall for a week something I will now look into. That's one of the reasons I want to maintain outboard myself - if I know how it works - I can fix it if it goes wrong.
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29 October 2014, 18:44
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wormit
Boat name: lots of them
Make: various
Length: no boat
Engine: all types
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max...
Drain carb etc then I remove plug leads, remove plugs and pour in a dollop of 4 stroke oil into each hole, refit plugs (not leads - position away from plugs!) and spin engine over a few times.
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And it will burst into flames!
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29 October 2014, 21:17
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie
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Doh, indeed,not thinking straight, crank with plugs out *then* refit them.
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12 December 2014, 19:16
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#10
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Waesfjord
Make: Excel sd 2.9
Length: under 3m
Engine: Mariner 8hp 2S 1986
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 56
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Brilliant tips . thanks folks
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13 December 2014, 22:29
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
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Never wire brush anodes 2 dissimilar metals , use a coarse sandpaper to reactivate
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